beerhead

4age has better aftermarket support - makes more top end power - much lighter engine. 2TG if you want to run it as a production race car - 2 valve makes it have more bottom end torque. Very much personal preference - but the 2TG's will all be getting tired and probably need a freshen up - but good quiet 4AGE's till pop up quite a bit - both are a relitively easy conversion - mix and match bits and it'll bolt in.

HP figures mean squat - bigger turbo's with big boost make more power - not an ecu. My mates EMS powered 2J S13 made 600 rwhp. New motor will make close to 800. The new EMS ecu's have individual cylinder trim and control of the angle for sequential injection - I don't know crap about powerFC - but I know EMS make a quality product and I like to support Australian companies.

Tidied up and resprayed the rear bumper, got bored and decided it was time to rub it back after a week in the sun. I didn't get too carried away with the prep too much (2 hours) - but for bumpers they came out quite well. Still need a proper cut and polish.

Drift and torque go hand in hand - if the price is right it'll definitely be easier to drift with a supercharged motor. That said you'll develop better driving skills with the underpowered car - so whatever floats your boat I guess.

All the RWD swaps I've seen done ran the factory T50 throwout, the fwd one has slightly the wrong diam on the shaft from memory... The clutch is different diam, but the spline and the spacing between the fingers of the clutch is the same as they're designed around the same gearbox. Factory starter will work fine fine.

They're on the money. Make sure you use a stainless fitting on a block, many have lost turbo's and motors when the brass T piece shears off at speed.

Running badly? So its getting hot? Multi layer steel gasket is the only way to go for boost Standard thickness (1mm or 1.2mm can't remember) 0.7mm is for poor mans high comp. TRD / HKS / Cometic - Haven't heard too many complaints about them Don't forget new head bolts or ARP head studs if you want to make it hold bigger boost for longer.

Will be a really smooth ride, but the only time an airbag is better than a coil spring handling wise is hitting speed humps at 60.

If you're planning on regoing the vehicle soonish, get the 3rd party for however long your regoing it for, if you don't rego it within 2 months you can get a refund too.

Legend - was the 6 wire one! Hopefully find out if there's gas in there over next day or 2. When I get a couple of dry days I should get most of the painting done, sick of this weather! So hopefully on the road in the next month or so..

Very sexy welds on that tank! Kleenex should sponsor that piece of hot KE!

Cheers! I just love the ITB bark! Been trying to track down the AC wiring online, but not much luck yet. Pretty sure i can pop the pins and rearrange to match the 100kw underdash harness though, will just need to track down an AE93 gregories for the diagram. Oooh - forgot to add I've got some 17x7's for it, a touch big, but they'll be fine.

Here's the new daily- Glad to say I Ironed out the rest of the the engine bugs today. Specs: AE93 SX 20V Silvertop 4AGE 5 Speed (nice and quiet) Heavy clutch - stuffs me what it is. Factory ITB goodness DBA crossdrilled and slotted front rotors standard rear discs King Spring Lows Monroe GT Shocks Standard 20V ST ECU Factory extractors with 2 1/4 system Replaced timing cog which was mangled by previous owner New Bosch timing belt New seals To Do: Work out AC compressor wiring Oil and temp sender gauge wiring Work out factory thermofan wiring - runs constantly atm New oxygen sensor Find a coil /igniter bracket. Flow bench injectors Full respray on the way! Did the standard clean the gunk from the the ICV and sealed all the air leaks on the airbox. I cleaned and recalibrated an SV21 camry afm, as the 20V are a bit rare, works flawlessly with some patience. Finally drove it today down the long driveway with no hatch, windscreen or interior - dam it had some get up and go with 150+kg of the car still in the shed - and that's only hitting 1/4 throttle. Ran the motor for a good 40 minutes today without any dramas.

Zip tie it under one of the sock filters and it'll be fine. Will be the wrong temp when the bay's heat soaked (sitting still), but once your moving and fresh air is flowing under the bonnet it'll read true enough to setup a cold map.

I would have thought you'd be work hardening the metal. By heating the metal to cherry red and hitting with a hammer you're aligning the crystal of the metal, just like drop forging. So the metal becomes less elastic and more crystalline. So for its handling aspect it'll be more ridgid, but in a crash situation less energy will be absorbed under the compression from the force of the impact. That said, wouldn't most of the strength of the front end in the chassis rails?

Double check the cam timing. My bet is you've used the wrong keyway hole on one of the cam gears. Then you'll find the dizzy might be out of whack again. I've done that once in the past. 4AGE TIMING MARKS

Everyone forgets about brazing, which should work a treat for a problem like this. I've seen tractors with snapped cast chassis rails that have been braised together and lasted over a decade (still going now). The braze will work its way all the way through the join and shouldn't put as much heat into the block as a mig or tig.

Haha, I've always thought about a poor mans 5SGTE for the camry. Will be good to see how it goes. BTW 3SGTE forgies are no good, need to be the custom 5S variety ones because the gudgeon pin is higher in the piston on the 5S. I think spool are doing 5S rods now too.

Haven't done weights in years, but the best I've done is 5 x 85kg. I've picked up complete 4AGE and put it in the boot of a KE a couple of times - Tough work getting them out on your own though!

Very tidy, under 800kg is awesome. What do you reakon is making the rear right side a touch heavier?

You sure its getting vaccum at crank? Map sensor tube that runs to the ecu isn't clogged? ECU might think no air is going into the motor.

I'd guess Dave is trying to stay street legal. 2 x rotor capacity for rego, so 2.4L turbo = legal, 2.6L turbo = fail.

Depends what engine you've got. You want to go visit someone who knows the motor your playing with.

If the injectors are clogged you can always use a brass punch and a hammer and tap them while someone is cranking the car, great trick on motors that have been sitting. Might be worth popping the bung on the fuel tank to make sure there's no rust in the tank. Clean the tank and lines and replace filter if its full of gunk, has to be a reason they're clogging up so fast.

That ecu doesn't have burnt igniter transistors does it? If you've triple checked everything, it might be worth opening the ecu to make sure it isn't toasty.