beerhead

That's the beast you'll need. If you use a normal plate with a cooler like yours the motor will never warm up enough for the internal tolerances to be right.

Yes way too big, but if it's got a thermostat it'll work fine. That's a bigger cooler than on a mates 700hp 2J.

If gay means they're wind tunnel tested, increase downforce and reduces drag, they're really really gay.

Hammer the screwdriver as far as it'll go in, when you turn it the whole lock will spin and let you in (with some brutality)

White paint pen and put dots on belt and timing gears side by side then transfer those dots to the new belt if you're worried. If you've ever worked on European car's this is 100% necessary, cause they are on crack and I've had a car that's manual didn't reflect reality that I was forced to time by ear.

3T though they're chain...

Terry - need a quick fix on LRS guards bro :P

There are some early AE92's with a 4AGE bigport hey - and how that can create more emissions than a Carby 4AFE you got me.. but might be worth looking into...

The other day I was playing a round of Bad Company 2 in the shed which has a room with my gaming rig attached to a projector. I spotted the rodent - luckily there was a 12mm spanner next to the keyboard. Head Shot!!! Killed the sucker in a single blow.

This is why I love watching the British touring cars. Just ballast the hell out of the fastest cars, kinda strange watching an fwd astra spank an M3 though... I also loved that grass roots rally series they featured on top gear with Bill Oddy driving - you can buy any persons car for $1000 - and they have to sell. Nobody wants to loose there hard work - so they don't do any! I'd be in for a budget corolla rally series. Downdraft carbies - 4K's standard valves and a cage - ballast early KE's to the KE70's weight. I'm sure you could ballast gemini's or any other simple carby car to make for some close racing.

Will wheel the crane to the pallet scales with the 3SGE the next time it comes out of the car - my guess is 130KG-ish. My intake saves over 10kg on stock though.

20psi antilag clutch drop I dare you :P Video evidence of the explosion required!

Recently a neat GZE powered AE86 went on ebay for $3K - was trying to get a mate to buy it! But yeah - price variance is crazy - if you're gonna mod it don't get a JDM one they're very exxy these days. Expect to pay $3K + for a nice clean ADM shell - price keeps on going up the better they get.

Gday, and welcome to the club. ST and BT 20V motors are really better off as efi motors, quad throttle efi out of the box, converting to carby seems like a step backwards - there's nothing off the shelf to do this I've ever seen. Worth the $1000 for an ecu to run the motor to its potential. If you want carbs I'd suggest a 16V is the way to go, off the shelf DCOE manifolds can be had for a reasonable price, plus if you can translate the TRD 4AGE bible you'll pull the perfect jet and choke info to suit your needs straight out of the book - saving you alot of money in tuning.

Mine was hydro

Remember the way it's meant to work is you disclose all the mods you're planning to do to the engineer before you build the car. He then ticks all those mods off once they've been done and you get your engineering certificate. If there is no mod code for the firewall and someone notices there could be issues in the future. Ask your engineer if what you've done has been included on the certificate. Nothing anyone here can say will help you - if you're worried it's not legal asking here will only create more conjecture - your engineer is the only port of call worth talking to.

Nobody has done a 3SFE I've seen but there's been a few 3SGTE and 3SGE ones built. Look on toymods theres a jigsaw affair swap with only 1 custom mount with a gen3 3SGTE. Even mix and match CV's I think worked. As hiro said - it'll be a mission good 4age or a 4AGZE is alot easier bang for buck swap.

The problem is crushing a hoon's car doesn't stop the person being a hoon. These laws will create more danger on the street. If the hoon knows there car is gone when they get pulled over - they will speed off - hopefully not crashing in the process. Governments have been legislating against hoon drivers for decades - in this time the population of the country has nearly doubled - but at the same time more race tracks have shut down than been opened.

I haven't seen a relocated dizzy on the club - Most RWD 20v's just run an aftermarket ecu. There are codes for firewall mods - but many engineers don't like going there. Engineering is a joke half the time you'll get 3 different stories of whats legal from 3 engineers - but if they sign off on it - it should be there ass not yours that gets paddled if it's not up to spec.

Haha - Sounds like a fun mission Terry! Nothing like an old toyota for chugging it's way home when the odds are against it!

Meh - Surface rust is your friend! Unless the pillars are powder there's plenty of life left in this rig!

OMG better check the shed to make sure my rolla is still there :P I swear you stole it! It's amazing what an old stocko KE can do HP/KG they're always up the top. Laters...

Been asked many times - as long as you know all it'll be good for is burnouts - a good 4K KE will make you look like a noob at a motorkhana. But for dropping 1/4 mile long burnouts it'll be a great power plant :fuzz: I dare you to spend $2000 on a suspension package for your KE and learn to drive it properly before you do such a crazy thing ;)

ST141 has the same kingpin angle problems as a RA60 strut in as KE - it changes the scrub radius of the outside edge of the tyre and your car will never steer properly again.

I just spent the last hour researching the powerFC - they don't even state the the full specs of the unit on there webpage - I'll take the best bang for buck ecu every time - within minutes I had a list of all the things an EMS can do and it does alot. An hour in and I don't know what the powerFC can do for me - apart from that I don't need to understand EFI to any degree to install one. The reason why people like Power FC's is because they're idiot proof. You plug it in and drive to the dyno shop and get a tune because they come with a a half decent base map that should run your vehicle to some degree. My biggest gripe is that if you ever want to return your car to stock you're left with an ECU that's restricted to one engine! Don't forget the $450 for the software if you want to data log or tune with a notebook. I'm sure you love powerFC because you have one - but they're not a cut above the rest like you imagine - they're right on the bottom shelf next to a microtech for features.