beerhead

I've found this on ebay in the states, it's some material that nasa uses for gaskets, meant to be a great insualator between the head and the intake manifold, keeping the temperatures lower and air densities up. What do you reakon guys? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/4AGE-AE86-C...013948559QQrdZ1 50ish AUD delivered.

All the basics in one, nice. All it needs is the comparison table at the end with a few power specs :D

Am I right in thinking that the Bigport FWD throttle bodies are the same as the RWD. That price was the manifold minus the throttle.

For the slack people, here's the number. SSS Automotive 02 9896 6111 from the shape of the bigport manifolds, you'd be crazy to cut and shut one, esp at this price. Brad

Hey, just thought someone might be interested in RWD bigport 4AGE manifolds. I scored one from SSS automotive today for $100 + COD costs. I don't think they have many left, so be fast if you're interested

Such a pity now though, used to be 4-5 cartons to $100 when I was first able to drink. These days it's hit 3! A rusty ebay special corolla could keep you pissed for a month, now a fortnight would be pushing it.

Holy crap ... 10K spent on a 4K!. Someone must have very angry misses.

JDM and ADM cars are like chalk and cheese. My mates 1984 Nissan gazelle had a bloody button and a light to do everthing but pick your nose for you :unsure:

yeah man wreckers should only ask $30 bucks for the weight prolly aint worth it

I have some still for sale from a KE55 with discs, control arms ect.

From what I've found I'd say it would still have an effect http://www.ccohs.ca/oshanswers/chemicals/c...orking_ozo.html

It's interesting that thing that brocky had. I can remember seeing a documentary about electronic fire extinguishers. Pretty much you get to wires about and inch from eachother, ram 80000 volts through em at the right duty cycle and pulse and the air will ionize. The oxygen goes up and the nitrogen gets rammed at the ground putting out the fire. I wonder what this would do on the intake of your motor. :jamie:

to undoe the bolt I just use a shifter, 2 flywheel bolts one upper engine - flywheel bolt. *Put a flywheel bolt through the hanger hole on the shifter into one bolt hole on the crank * Put another flywheel bolt diagonally across from the first one you put in. *Spin the shifter around so it's tight and place another bolt into the block up high for it to push on. Like this I find it easier to crack flywheel bolts then when the motors in of the car.

it was meant to by a dry humoured joke :D Worst part is all the screw mountings and plastic crap is dud in the front of mine, you set em right and it rattles out in a few days.

I'm sick of having my lights pointing at the ground. 2" drop at the front and none at the back sux. Think I might have to sort out mine too after looking at this example.

So how legal is cutting and shutting front control arms? ... sounds bad. Could the right place press in a groove and drill new hole's for the arm bushes?

I have an air con braket if someone wants one in brisbane. I reakon An SC14 would be an overkill. You'll probably find to legally keep it under with emission's you'll have to efi it or run in on LPG. For best results it might be worth finding a 5K or a 7K engine to begin with.

Thought some people might be interested in doing this to there rolla. Would be a great upgrade. http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=84919

Nice, looks good man, it's a great experience once you get back in and go for a spin eh.

Great ride mate :ban: I've been toying with the idea of investing in a forced 4AGE rather than a 5K. How's it run with the smallport head? or have you done a swap? Would be interesting to see whether there is much power difference between it and a 4AGZE turbo rig. Any trouble running without oil squirters so far? There's so many other cars around that are blown without them that I've never fully understood why 4AGE people immediately shun at the idea of it, is it the ceramic top pistons?

A flat-top 4K-C head would have a larger compression area. When I compared my 5K and 4K head's I found the the 5K head was 3mm shorter than the 4K item, and the 4K one was shaved! I noticed no performance change aswell. The best 5K idea I've had of late is to rebuild the motor with 4AGE pistons so it's flat top! not sure exacly about the compression you'll have.

All the LPG vehicles you've described there would use the existing ECU to regulate the LPG mixtures. In a carby style LPG of vehicle consistent vaccum conditions dictate the efficiency of the motor. Mick, my mate from the Sunny Coast swears by getting a custom cam for LPG vehicles, his shop will do up to 10 conversions a week sometimes. His kingswood is a 300hp NA twin throttle LPG 308, getting better fuel economy than his 2L G200 Jackaroo on unleaded.

If you're thinking about gas it'd probably worth getting a replacement carby rather than a top hat style of unit. Carby and convertor $400 trade Tank $400 Lines, cabling and Solenoid $200, Gas Certificate $50 Labour 0 - $700 depending on where you get it done. New cam profile $90 Won't be much change from 2 grand If you're really keen you should score a 7K efi manifold and sidedraft the the carb on the front like an efi throttle body. You can even get sensors that allows you to control the system with an aftermarket ecu. I know someone who gets 7 L per 100km from a N/A L16 datto motor under hard daily driving with a EMS stinger. For the best effiency, it's best to get a new cam profile with different durations to suite aswell, not too sure what they change.. Check out http://www.gasresearch.com.au/, has a 20mb download about forced induction too, bit of a waste of time though for its size.

f@$k yeah that shot is sweet. You can trace the way around the entire track. That big racer looked damn nice.

Found someone with some standard 4AGZE pistons. He reakons $120 for the set. Anyone know how well the GZE rings hold up, is it worth getting new ones if they look ok?