beerhead

Hey how's it going, I'm Brad went to Nambour High with Stu Brown, I came the year you left, but met you at a piss up at his place one time at Indooroopilly. Nice to hear you've nearly got the glitches sorted out with the car. My wreck has a newish water pump on it you can have if you want to give it a try, second hand ones are abit iffy, but might be worth a shot.

Holy crap, Imagine the noise! The best engine explosion I've witnessed was a top fueler blowing at take off. Kaboom! Beautiful blue flames all over the motor, oil pissing everywhere (winternats last year). Funny part was it still rolled a 12.5 down the 1/4.

RIP brockie, just like steve, at least you passed doing something you love.

I'm thinking about going the reverse water adpater and make it cool like a 16V 4A. Sam_Q on toymods has had great sucess with a standard ecu like this. I've heard on stock ECU's you get troubles, but I reakon his works properly is that he's relocated the temperature sensor onto the outlet hose at the front of the motor, ei the water has atually cooled the whole system before it is monitored. If you put the sensor in the back of the head in the threaded hole in the Kellam blockoff plate the water would have only cooled one side of the head before being checked. My mate's a computer systems eng, he's gonna help me with a flip-flop circuit to alternate between coil packs using a GZE ignitor. I just need to get the loom together to test whether the motor does a full revolution to TDC / home on the CAS before firing the first spark. I reakon this would be the case, the ECU must need a reference before using the 24 tooth wheel to work out the true rotation of the motor. I just wish I knew an EFI guru.

Fitted the new stereo today, real happy about the job. I fitted it where the old radio goes... with a few difficulties hack hack grind grind. Now the fuel meter doesn't go. ;) Time to get out the trusty multimeter. Next week the adjustable coilover project begins, aslong as the threaded sleeves arrive. Trying to get the suspension tweaked before the new motor fills the slot. Pics coming :y:

I've never tried but, I've heard that KE70 strut tops fit on an AE86 and I've run KE70 front struts in a KE55. My SV21 camry shocks have a big bore and are machined down at the top end to around a 10mm threaded end, which mates with the KE55 top. Seems like toyota have the same size strut top bearing on alot of there cars.

Lightening billet flywheels isn't a probelm, just don't go there with a cast one, my mate know's of a RX-7 driver that wrote off their car and tried to amputate there legs when it exploded, not very pretty.

I'm building XT130 coilovers atm. Everything does bolt up, but without shortening the strut even with KE55 superlows it'll have a standard ride height. The springs don't sit in the seat's properly either, i'd reccomend getting custom springs made with a corona base and a KE55 top on them. Biggest killer without modding the strut is it's shocky travel. I'm lopping them down 40mm and using SV21 gas camry inserts to get the shocky travel correct. The tops definitely fit. I'll post some pic's of the progress in a week or so.

If you're still having trouble, try revving the motor up with the air filter off, at high rev's put your hand over the inlet and almost completely seal it, making the motor run real rich. Quickly remove your hand and continue pumping the throttle to keep it running. Alot of the time this will suck alot of crap out of the jets. Might be time for a can of carby clean or a rekit if the electrics all check out fine.

Yeah that works too, but then the speed limiter will work, who wants that ;)

Wikid, will have to get down there for a day, just gotta decide which one.

Let's hope you don't need a new bonnet when it lets go ;) You gonna camp the whole weekend?

Problem: Me and a mate were having a little trouble with his Bigport 4AGE running a JDM AE86 computer, it just wouldn't rev real well, had huge power troubles, which I thought could be speed sensor related. Solution: Wire a flasher unit into a relay that switches ground and feeds the speed sensor signal on the ecu. ;) It gives about 3-4 pulses a second. Works great! The relay will probably fry after a while, but you'll know when the motor has given up it's rev happy attitude. He's gonna put the flasher on a toggle switch so you can get a little more life out of the setup. One day I might build a digital solution to this problem. I'll let you know how long it lasts.

It's easy as pie to get 1J's and 1G's in QLD. 1JZGTE bare engines go for $1200 -1600 from the importers in QLD. They've got all the plugs still attached to the motor making aftermarket ecu installs easy. Also there is a complete 1G with loom ecu, manual box for $1750. Check out the tradingpost site, might be worth the freight.

To get your car riding right with a corona / celica / supra front strut conversion your going to need to shorten the tubes about 40mm and use AE92 shock inserts. Then you can then either have the original KE70 lower spring mounts welded to the strut tube or buy some weld on coil over sleeves and springs to suit. The MA60 brake bracket won't let you bolt up a hilux 4 pot (which your gonna want with a sr20det in there) just use cheap old corona struts and tap the mounting hole out to suit. Peugeot 604 discs are what people have been using on the corona hub, though they need some maching to fit inside the calipar and the mounting face shaved to let the disc center in the calipar correctly. Try some searching of the old toymods forum if you need more help, theres piles of information there. Rolla club brake faq

Yep that'd be fine. Try to get an internal lift pump from a VL or similar if you don't want excess noise. I know someone who runs without a surge tank. It's an internal holley pump feeding a VL High pressure pump. He just needs to keep the fuel above the bottom 1/8 of the tank. That said it's in an offroad racer and probably wouldn't see the lateral G's that you'll get with you car.

The efi tank will have baffles in it to save you needing a lift pump and/or a surge tank.

I've got some stainless 20V fwd primaries here if your interested, $40. You just need the 2 outer bolt holes slotted to make it bolt up. Stick away from fuel only computers, control of your timing when you change the fuel mix is a very handy thing.

I can remember that it had a right angle 2 prong blue plug. Somwhere near the dizzy section of the wiring. I think that's it anyhow, efi don't need ballasts on the coil.

You'll be able to use the double row timing chain and gears if it has one too.

nice, gonna have to check it out sometime :lolcry:

I've got nicks old cam here still if you want it, Carton of XXXX and it's yours. I just really want to hear it with some real carbies :lolcry:

I think nick's gonna have to make a "Datsun powered Rolla rides" forum :lolcry: They're taking over! Should be a bag of fun to drive :y:

Your injectors are ground switched, so it's a little strange for there to be power there. I did this loom conversion with a mate 2 weeks ago. We just added a switched 12V feed for the TVIS and the injectors. Is the injector fuse still present? It plugs into a random 2 prong round plug behind the head. Also make sure the resistor pack for the injectors is still there too. Hope this helps a bit.

Not too dependant on the brand of sensor, you just need one that is compatible to you ecu. There are both zirconia and titania o2 sensors that run 4 wires. If the ecu has a signal + and a signal - it'll need a titania one, zirconia sensors only have 1 signal wire. This pdf has a good compatability list and various data on o2 sensors. NTK catalog ZIRCONIA Black = signal wire Grey = dedicated earth White = heater wire White = heater wire TITANIA Red = heater + White = heater – Black = signal – Yellow = signal + Have fun!