beerhead

Let's face it, the best commodore made ran a jap designed motor. RB30 E an ET. Atmo they'll get 7L/100 if you're a grandma.

You'd know better than I, never looked at the plate :D

Geez, looing nice mate, keep up the good work :D Gotta go dishy 15's, dunno about big rims on such a classic shape. mmm... Someone on AE86 Driving club is organising a group buy of these. Wish I had the coin.

Name: Brad Care: 1981 KE55 Coupe (my bad) Motor: Stocko 4K, 5spd, thermofan Suspension and brakes: Corona front brakes, pajero master cylinder, now sit's on old mazda 14 x 7's, new idler arm. Interior: Civic seats, sports wheel, in dash tacho, Pioneer mp3 head unit and 6 x 9's Part's pile to fit: Complete set of new nolathane front end bushes, SV21 camry monroe gas inserts, 20V Silvertop, stock ecu, AE71 5sp, 4.4 mazda LSD with EA rear disk brakes, trd copy ectractors, I'm so close, just need a bit more coin to get it in there now :D Tinted windows

Neat little rolla you got there mate, nice find. You'll find a nice collection of info in the FAQ on how to build a tough K motor, might be worth reading over. Electric dizzy's are a little hard to find, you'll find commercial wreckers are a good place to look as the 5K's came in the ol' liteace. I reakon it'd be worth the money to save up and get a nice set of DCOE webers/dellorto's, they hold there value really well too if you went down the supercharger line and had to part with them.

maybe they're for spark shows :D

Geez those wheels are the bomb, nice choice. What 4A motor's going in? BTW, RA60 struts won't let you make the easy 4 pot upgrade with the hilux / peug connection, corona's have the same hole spacing on the braket. I recently got a pair of twin pot corona fronts for my KE55, I'm sure they'll do the job for a while.

Nice work Matt, can't wait to see how the seat's turn out :D Hat's off to the quality work :P

Hmm, I dunno, the other slappers I've seen are the same, but logically it does seem to be round the wrong way eh. :D

You can build a slapper bar that looks something like this, they seem to work well in drag car's, though it's a bit crude. Here's some other ways people fix the problem, ravens on the money, a lower arm is one of the best solutions. Lower control arms

Th 20V water pump has an extra fin on it. You'll find the pump won't fit over a RWD 4AC housing the fins are a little bigger. I've heard the 16V will bolt up no troubles, and I've got one for the job, so i can let you know definitely in a few days. I've got a source for non genuine silvertop timing belts for $30 if anyone needs one. I'll get that part number for the ignitor for you too, if it's a bigport.

casey: that sounds very scary. aluminium shock hardens and becomes very brittle, that's why planes are pulled to bits every year and checked. They are so stringent that they won't even let you draw on the aluminium with a pencil because it causes micro-fractures. It seems you can lighten any steel flywheel, but take it to a pro. The best ones I've seen are CNC machined and leave ribs at full thickness that link to a think outer rim around the ring gear.

Gee that thing looks scary on the road. Can't wait to hear the 1/4 times. Would love to see some pics of the underbody at the back end.

I kinda miss the noise of the evil old K motor eh. Might have to build a nasty injected 5K one day to see what can be made of em. But I've got my cards full at the moment. 20V + RWD = pain is the ass + much $$$

Nice ride mate, bet it goes like the clappers. How hard is it to keep it in tune? I've heard that draw through carb set up's are a pain is ass through the seasons. You better put in a 2JZ when it pops though :D

There's no replacement for displacement, apart from the a big ugly blower :D Your 4K must have had some issues.

Gee I swear I met you once. Did you ever drop in for a visit at alex's place or something? Hmm, my mind might be failing me :D BTW, I have a 4AC AE71 wagon 2 1/4 system that bolts to the standard flange lying around too if it's any use to you. Spare diff there too, will be going to the crusher if I can't get rid of em.

Any late model silvia LCA will be no good, I've been told you'll have about 4-5 degree's of negative camber. I've heard that pintara arms are the deal to get the right camber on KE30- KE70's, apparently the KE20 LCA's aren't as wide. I reakon you'll have to I was also looking at some R31 skyline LCA's the other day and they seemed to look about the same length as a KE55 arm. I posted this up ages ago when I found it, might be worth a read over. S13 into AE86 Guide

Geez, gotta be happy with that hey. Very close to your goal of 200KW atw, 30 more and your there :D Though, I bet it's a handful as it is.

You might need a different strut still, I'm not sure which rotars bolt up to a stock hub easily. I think some sort of early magna one will work, but that won't be that big considering that your gong for a nice 4 pot calipar.

Yeah just checked again, looks like all the corona's share the same unvented rotor. I don't own an AE82 anymore, so maybe someone with an AE82 can take a snap of how the front strut is mounted to the stub axel. Here's a pic of how a magna strut looks. They look similar to an AE82 one. Imagine a stub axel with a big fat tag coming up to full the slot between to two plates on the left side of the image

if it's FWD and a toyota it won't have a horizontal based mount, it'll be vertical one that slots over a meaty tag. If it's vented and single piston it'll be a late model corona or a MA60. Everyone's been strut shopping today, just picked up a set of corona twin pot non vented cause I can't be bothered pulling the ones out of my car to mod. cost me $60 Just remember, you won't be able to get 4 pot Hilux calipars to bolt up to your *A60 mount without mods.

Good: Twin 40mm Webers / Dellorto's Regrind cam, pick your power curve Aftermarket extractors and 2 inch system Shaved head or 3K bigport (if you can find one) Bad: Aisan Carby Stock nanna spec cam Cast exhaust manifold and it's pea shooter Let's face it no factory 4K is very exciting without some TLC.

If you want to fix the big holes the dodgy way for a quick roadworthy pass, get a tin of fibre bog and a clip board folder / sheet of hard plastic. Mix up the bog and make spread a 2 mm layer over the the plastic and wait for it to start to jel. About a minute before it starts to go off mix up another batch of it to use as a glue to fix it to the to the panel. I've fixed huge holes like this before and had them last for years :D

I reakon the alternator isn't the problem. If what you say is correct, try to work out if within the dash the charge light is using a common ground with all the ancillaries, if it's not snip that wire and feed 12V into that terminal. Wire the other one onto charge light wire on the altenator. Hope this helps! :D