beerhead

Hey, that's pretty decent for a 4K, very decent for a stock carby. Get a pair of DCOE webber's on it and you'll bring that cam to life.

Sounds like the igniter could be shagged. Try removing the IGF wire from the igniter and see if there is any change. If the ecu doesn't get the IGF signal after a couple of rotations of the motor the ecu will go into limp. If you don't get any difference running without the IGF that'll be the problem. Try starting it without the map sensor too, does it behave the same way?

Nice setup mate, def would shock some people. I'd be looking into some wider struts to base your brake upgrade on like you said. The KE55 struts won't give you as good a shock choices as a 52mm tube strut - AE86, Corona, celica. The TA22 struts are ok in a corolla, but the later model gear , RA40 RA60 will upset your steering geometry due to their lame king pin angle. Looking good :P

My old KE55 had corona arms in it, it ran 1.5 deg neg camber. This topic has come up piles of times. If the car's daily driven prepare to wear out tyres on the inner edge with sigma arms.

That was a good mow down if I've ever seen on. I think he needs some heavy duty springs for the windscreen wipers :no:

Sigma arms are a little extreme, XT130 corona arms are better for street use, they'll give you about 1.5 deg of neg camber, Sigma is 3+ deg. I've had KE55 arms and KE70 LCA's side by side, they looked identical in length to me, don't know about th KE30 ones though.

I'm pretty sure there's no legal limits on shortening diff's, but I'm not from your state. Its just that if it's that short that you start modifying the inner guard for clearance you really should have it done by someone with a body builders license. 2" flare's will easily see 9's under there without chassis mods. There's untubbed KE20's in australia running 10's, you'll gain negligible performance from a mini-tub if you can get similar rubber under there without it, I'd spend the money elsewhere, a pair of mono tube Bilsteins for the back will probably reduce times better than running huge rubber and axel tramping the launch.

The disc has the correct 4x100 pattern for the back of a hub from factory. I reakon a spacer ring would be sufficient as the holes should be in exactly the correct spot. BTW Ironkin, find a new machine shop :no: Really shouldn't be a drama doing a 5 stud to 4 stud adaption on a skyline rotor, lame machine shop.

Yes, the leaf mounts will more than likely need to be moved in if you mini tub. But Ke20's are renowned in the drag scene for not needing a tub to fit some big rubber, you're probably better off flaring the back end. Have a little play position the VL diff under the car and work out the amount of backspace that's going to match a wheel you choose to run, remember you're going to need a bit of a gap from the body so the wheels don't scrub, running a custom panhard rod will reduce the boat steer quite considerably. You'll probably get away with a guard roll to fit a 8 1/2 under there if everything is optimal in the diff positioning / wheel offset department.

I've found a rotor for an RX-7 4 piston brake upgrade that's an exact fit to an AE86 hub. The thing is, an AE86 has a 64mm ID hole with a 45 degree chamfer on the edge, the rotor in question has an 80mm ID hole and a chamfer too. I wonder if this is done on other cars? I wonder if this sort of thing increases the chance of failure...

I wasn't going to bring this up, but If you both would have read the whole post I wrote you'd know its been covered.

That time attack sounds great hey, we should be able to get a few people there if we plan for it early. cam_ae92 : Have a little bit of a read through the thread, all your concerns have been addressed to some degree.

What diff ratio's are available for the VL diffs? Probably won't be suitable for anything but forced induction. A narrow track hilux diff won't require shortening and will be friendlier in the ratio department while you're atmo.

A 16V exhaust manifold will require modification to bolt up the the 20V Head. 1 hole needs to be notched, the other needs a metal tag welded to it and a new hole drilled. Those manifolds crack like nothing else, look pretty, but they've got too many joins. Try and get hold of one of these cast HKS, or a recently available copy. HKS turbo manifold - Was quoted $90 freight. HKS copy manifold

I know what you mean about wanting to keep it close in power, but I really don't think people could get away with working their internals too heavily. By the sound alone I know if a 4AGE has after market cams, and it takes 2 minutes to visually inspect the top end of a motor. 100rwkw is a mean feat on standard cam's, even with 11:1 compression. Some nice porting won't effect the overall output of a motor as much as it'll the ability for the motor to breath or deliver its power. Your probably right in the fact it'd be hard to find enough people to compete in a class, but there is probably double the number of 4A xe7x's in Australia as there were 2 years ago. If even 5 of us would start regularly racing together in the sprints I'm pretty certain we'd raise enough eyebrow's to eventually get a stronger following on the horizon. From there, the sky's the limit.

If you're going for the RA40 struts, try and find someone who can adjust the kingpin angle for you. You'll find that it'll put the front camber out of whack, even with the overdose sigma arms. Throw them in an alignment machine and you can make them work as well as standard struts. BTW, people haven't replied because if you go hunting, you'll find this kind of stuff has been covered time and time again

Hey, the gearbox will bolt up, but I'm not sure if the big CV's that come with the twincam models will. I'd be looking for a replacement 20v box for strength and gear decent ratio's

Most of those "ebay special" turbo kits are junk. a T3/4 is a big turbo, running low boost you could get away with a GT25, about half the size and will come on under 4 grand.

Sbox got it in one, I wouldn't be playing with a corolla, let alone any Jap car with a 500hp chev motor. I'd be looking for that overrated old school holden shell to play with that one.

I'm fairly certain 5K and 4K blocks are identical in height. I ran into no problems when replacing a 4K. They both have the same rods and crank, but run a bigger bore to take the motor to 1.5L.

To be fair, camshafts would be restricted to factory, as would the ecu and injectors and valve sizes. You'd have everyone running the JDM spec ECU too. But, I think running a 7 rib bottom end for reliability issues would be allowed. This would leave the variables like head porting, exhaust and compression ratio in the engine department. This would make it possible for people to compete for cheap and still be competitive. Geez the cost of a set of after market 4AGE cams is more than most of the running 4AGE's I've picked up over the years, let alone setting them up.

I reakon its a great Idea, I'd love to see a cheap 4 cylinder class exist that isn't a gemini. I reakon let the KE25's race with us, with a weight ballast, have fun whopping ass with your leaf springs mate if there parity. As for superchargers and turbo chargers? Doesn't that go against the principle of parity? This would almost require everyone to run turbo's for close racing on tracks with any big straights. Then the complexity of running a reverse grid to make it any good, and the dangers associated with it would make it impossible to see good racing.

A high flow turbo is generally a hybrid. They'll use a different front or rear compressor wheel, and / or housing, or machine your current housing out to take the larger wheel. Lots of nissan turbo's run ceramic wheels. Lots of the time the highflow process will also be converting you turbo to a steel exhaust wheel to reduce failure at higher boost.

I scored it as a random email from someone, heaps more suspenseful as a powerpoint :P

Ah, its all on a webpage. Aren't I a noob :P Barnfind