beerhead

Damn, gotta say that graph looks like you've got a driveable car, close to linear power delivery, and over 200kw before 5000rpm lol! What'd the tuner say about the taper off? I would have thought the peak flow of the GT2871 should get a little more up top. Must be bloody fast off the line with 4.11's Got enough traction for a decent 1/4 mile run yet?

RA40 gear shouldn't be fitted to a KE, the kingpin angle is completely out of whack, you'll need camber tops, massive RCA's and it still won't handle as good a struts that match the geometry as whats coming out of the car. Yes, you can make it work ok, many people have with some cash injection. Go with an early corona strut if you like corners, have a search on the site, this topic has been covered many times before. Corona LCA's are the go for around 1 - 2 deg neg camber, sigma arms are around the 3- 4 deg mark.

Nice one trev, can't wait to see the results. It has to drive better than with fixed timing.

Yo, How are you finding the spring rates on those coilovers? Most of the coilovers getting round these days are a little too firm for a daily. Gotta love Brian's 1960's wheel alignment machines hey, don't ever need a calibration, beats the ass out of any other wheel alignment I've ever had

Budget around 5 - 8 thousand for a dog box. They aren't really for street use bud and make a hideous noise too. You're best motor & box combo's that bolt in easy are in the 4AGE family. 4AGE's don't bore out for crap, they're a compact engine and don't have big sidewalls between the pistons, 7AFE's are 1.8L though. Google is your friend, you'll find heaps of people that have played with similar rolla's to this.

Firing order is 1342, Did you not mark your dizzy before pulling it apart? Base timing is 8 deg, 10 deg or more with better fuel. Valve tolerances should be in the FAQ So the dizzy isn't going in on at the right spot and the motor isn't running?

Putting a rotary in is going to be the easiest if it used to run a 12A. There is nobody who'll deny that they are one of the fastest things ever made per litre, and the way they deliver there power is spectacular. You just need to work out if you can afford maintaining one, you'll always need to have a few grand in the bank for a crate motor or a freshen up. The things I've seen SR's survive with factory bottom ends shows you how reliable they are, have you ever heard an ultra reliable rotary?

It's pure class that one of the fastest cars down the 1/4 mile in the club is K powered, heed his words if you want a car that can be driven on the street :bash:

Damn you must have a sore spine from 10kg springs in a daily driver, is it choppy over the bumps? KE70dave's car was terrible with 10's and only just bearable with 8kg springs. BTW, I'd keep your tow bar, and just loose the tongue. Old rolla's are soft in the tail and linking the 2 rear rails with reinforcement gives a very noticeable stability at high speeds.

If its a spring mounted clutch center broken spring make for all sorts of rattles and vibrations too

I haven't ever seen an IDF carb on a 4K, normally people only put them on V8's. I wonder if it was done because of clearance issues with the strut tower and DCOE with any length of ram tube in a KE10. Redwarf was saying there's enough troubles in a KE20.

You'll need to pull the bearings off the axel and swap the bearing plate too :S

I used to get 11l/100 with an 88/42 cam and daily 7Krpm visits. So there must be something wrong with the ignition or carb. A well maintained 4K should be in the 7-8L/100 bracket from most accounts, even lower if your a nanna on the way to church :bash:

:bash: Most people will agree, I just didn't want to upset any resident members with business ties to the company :)

Being RWD, its worthwhile going to a full aftermarket package so you don't need to hack your firewall. With that setup, you can do away with the dizzy cap and rotor button, and retain the dizzy base as a CAS for the ECU. The stock ecu's can't be re-mapped but you could run it with an Emanage to adjust the fuel, its not the ideal solution though. There's a few 20V's in the club on adaptronic ecu's. There's one on a microtech too. Call around your area and find a tuner you feel happy working with, they'll point you towards an ecu they're used to tuning and get you the best results. Second hand is ok, aslong as the ecu is coming from a running car, in the past I've had to replace igniter transistors that were broken on an ebay bought ecu. If you go the microtech path, make sure its previously off a 4AGE, or you'll be up for a big fee to have the ecu modified to suit your application.

I'm not talking about how it will handle the crash, I'm talking about the cars ability to get you in a dangerous situation, and you endangering other motorists on the road. Say, if you're doing 80 in a skyline and drop it to 2nd and dump the clutch in the wet. Do you think this behavior is dangerous as a corolla doing the same thing, I doubt you'd get wheel spin in a stock rolla :yes:

Damn I hate the cops attitude these days. Wow what a fast and dangerous car a stock corolla is. I don't know many people in a corolla trying to break power records. They really should be picking on all the tossers in skylines, with overpowered underdeveloped cars. I can't believe an old KE could attract so much attention, they should be out there stopping real crime rather than wasting your time and theirs with petty offenses that don't really have a victim.

Closing the regulator is one thing, but what you want to check is for a consistent pressure at different loads, where does the pressure sit at normal operation, and if you rev it out a bit, does it stay pretty close? You want to T off before the fuel rail and watch if its consistent.

I was hoping someone would grab this and give it the TLC it needed. :yes: I'd make sure you don't pay much for a retune, The tuner should have realised that he was hitting max duty cycle on the injectors, stock injectors will flow close to 180hp as a set of 4, I doubt you've hit that barrier at 4000rpm. Did he get a pressure tester and check that the fuel regulator is holding decent pressure? If this car used to drive with its current setup, and pull times in the 13's, it'd make me think that something other than the injectors could be the issue, fingers crossed though he's hit the nail on the head.

I bet yours is called lemmiwinks The gerbal king :yes:

I really like the look of the design of your ITB manifold, looks like it'll flow really well. How close are you to the limit on a single coil setup on your SR? You gonna go Coil packs? Though previous figures this car has pulled has been pretty darn good.

:fuzz: If you're a dealer for them of course you will say they're good, it's not in your best interest. What I said is not a load of crap, it's called an opinion, which is justified from my experience of seeing some friends microtech's constantly needing retuning and getting rubbish economy compared to other people with similar setups. When I built my 20V I was offered a microtech for a very low price, which I considered briefly. I called around 7 of the most reputable tuners in Brisbane asking for advice about whether the microtech would suit my needs. Not one of them recommended the unit for a 20V 4AGE, they all said that they won't give a very street friendly tune and if you add cam's they become even more finicky. They all said get a Motec, Autronic or Haltech. I've read in your posts before about numerous problems tuning your car, a 3.5 hr tuning session to only have your car run worse, then you spending a day tuning to get it driveable. What sort of fuel economy are you getting? I'm sure in the past you've said your 3.8L commo powered corolla was better on the fuel than the 20V, though that must have changed. At the end of the day its not about whether any ecu is good or bad, it's just too subjective. It comes back to having a local tuner that you trust with your engine and you giving them the tools that they prefer so they can do the best they can for you, and not have you needing an engine rebuild. Is that a big enough load of crap enough for you Nickz?

Was the 20V single coil in FWD or wasted spark? Either way, you'll need to get a 100kw dizzy or mod your bigport one, from being an early batch fire(4 spark event prongs) to sequential (1 home prong) on the upper magnetic wheel in the dizzy. I've modified one successfully in the past using a microtech. NA = Naturally Aspirated - Atmo = Atmospherically charged

Hey, I'd call around to some tuners in you're area, you'll find that they all hate Microtech + atmo 4AGE's, many won't even try and tune them. They work ok under boost, but but NA it'll take them half a day to tune at $100 an hour, and still be an average tune that's horrible on the fuel, and terrible off throttle. They're an annoying company too, this whole pay them $250 to make the ecu work on a different engine is the biggest scam ever, every other ecu around, will let you change settings to allow you to re-use the ecu on another vehicle.

Yeah, there was a fella on toymods that had as set's alloy quality checked and they exeeded the quality of 4340, so obiviously made with good material. But for something to be half the price of the competitors they have to be skipping something, which is probably quality control.