beerhead

Now with some Roll center adjusters added: COROLLA RCA Notice that the steering arm now nearly operates on the same plane as the steering rack RA40 RCA There is an improvement of the angle, but it still isn't as good as a factory strut. To some people this kinda thing won't worry you, but it's all about how hard you drive your car, or if you're planning to race competitively. Things like this to the eye don't look like much, but when it comes to shaving a few seconds a lap on the track to mow down a racer with more power it can mean all the difference :fuzz: The steering arm references aren't spot on, but I hope you can visualise what I mean

Warning! This might take a minute or 2 to load. I got bored and did a 3D model to explain this. It comes up so often it needs to be explained properly. Steering arms are meant to act on the same plane as the steering rack. The further you are from the plane of the steering rack, the more bump steer you get as the steering arm moves in and out as the strut compresses and rebounds because the pin for the tie rod is not perpendicular with the rack. Don't try and look at the whole thing, just watch the link pin for the tie rod end. Not 100% to scale, but it clearly shows what's going on. Corolla Strut Not too bad in a lowered position, but the steering arm is not on the same plane as the steering rack. RA40 Strut Fitted to corolla with longer LCA's and/or camber tops ... Steering arm is not acting on the same plane at all.

What breed of lift pump are you using mate? Internal or external? The cheapest huge flow intank option is probably an efi walbro. You don't need to use a low pressure pump for the lifter, I've used an efi one in the past without any worries. BTW, If you fit a switch to the pump feeding the rail, you can turn it off and the surge will be filled to the brim in no time at all by the lifter.

Yes, there is no kingpin's in modern cars, they're all stub axles these days, but the "Kingpin angle" is a term used by a suspension guru I know, and he's got enough track record holding cars for me to speak his words as gospel :fuzz: Quote found on google search of kingpin: "The kingpin is the main pivot in the steering mechanism of a car or other vehicle. Originally this was literally a steel pin on which the moveable, steerable wheel was mounted to the suspension. In more modern designs, it may not physically exist as an actual pin, but the axis around which the steered wheels pivot is still referred to as the kingpin."

Toyota starlets don't run a 4A motor, they've got a 4EFTE, so the manifolds won't be any good. Toyota ecu's can't be remapped, you'll need to go to a stand alone unit, or a piggy back. It might be worth looking into a 4AGZE swap if you want decent torque, that way you can use a factory ecu for the job.

LoL, you bought an old rolla without even knowing they're a poor man's AE86 :sob: You're lucky you didn't end up in a lancer or Hyundai :hmm: Upgrade list looks spot on. Work up the suspension first, learning to drive the car on the edge with a factory motor that won't get you in too much trouble. Then get some nice bolt ons for the motor and you'll be laughing. Rolla's are the shiz niggle of budget RWD beasts.

lol, dwarfs atmo nearly made the power than the turbo 2TG, shows what a little knowledge can do, even when modifying a near extinct dinosaur :sob:

95 ron E10 burns pretty slow, you should have your timing set from about 15 - 20 btc and the economy will still be there. In my 5S camry I get 8L /100 on the E10, and I don't exactly put around.

lol, that's a common one. Lane hopping can help you get to the destination faster, unless you're a twit who does it every 30 seconds. All you see is one lane come to a halt, then the idiots all pile in the other lane and it comes to a halt. I've noticed a few times seeing car disappear into the distance, only to over take them 6 minutes later when not swapping lanes.

If your radiator core is in pretty good nic, I wouldn't be too worried about an expensive alloy core one. There's been CA18DET motors run well on standard radiators. Just have a diversion pipe to get the feed to the other size, or have a radiator shop modify the outlet to the other side. You want a radiator that'll keep your motor at the right temperature range for the internal tolerances to be correct. A massive 3 core alloy radiator might look shit hot, but keeping a motor icy cold isn't the best for engine life. You'll find that the thermostat will be opening and shutting constantly under normal driving trying to keep the engine warm. Personally i'd spend the $500 on a nice set of shocks for the front end, or a brake upgrade.

Looking good dude. What's the plans for the oiling drama's of the 3S once uprighted? You going to put in an external oil drain and keep the wet sump? There's a trick with a repositioned timing belt tensioner that will give you access to a welsh plug that drains straight to the sump. Then you put an oil line from the front drivers side of the head straight to that port. Works quite well I've heard. Oiling is the only achillies heel of the 3S motor in RWD esp one that'll be held flat chat on a drift track. Not too many RWD 3S builds around, bunch of pussies all put datsun motors in cause its easy :sob:

Whats your base timing set at? If its about right, and its pinging when it advances I'd be looking at some fresh fuel.

Make sure you spray the bolts every day with WD for a week before this, the last time I tried I just sheared off all the bolts. Its not very good for handling though. Reset the leaves, lowering blocks are great if you like axle tramp.

If you're not sure on the cam then, does the motor have burble? The noise when there is a fair bit of overlap between the inlet and exhaust valve, making a tough sounding idle. Big cam's (300 duration) make a K motor sound like a rotary. Is the dizzy electronic? Or points? Is the vacuum advance working? Programmable ignition ftw though, worth every cent. As the dwarf said, first thing on your list should be extractors.

You'll definitely need extractors too mate, with a big cam and sidedrafts the factory manifolds aren't going to flow enough, and be the bottle neck of the system. What cam profile you got mate, if its standard, it'll drive the same as any 5K, no top end at all.

The main reason you shouldn't run ethanol fuel in a K motor is that the plastic float for the needle and seat isn't ethanol safe. Given half a decade it'll perish :no2: But it'll take a while, and the fuel savings will probably offset the cost of the carby from the wreckers too. BTW When they mod carby's for methanol they remove all the plastic floats and braze custom brass ones on. There's a different spec of rubber they use for the lines too, but I don't think that'll be much of a drama for E10 mix.

Sounds like a nice 5K. What cam grind did you get? Have a look at programmable ignition kits from jaycar or a MSD. The 5K elec dizzy doesn't have enough timing advance even on a stock motor, re-curving a dizzy is a waste of money in my opinion, esp when its so easy to go computer controlled these days.

I've heard TRD KE70's rally car used to hit 10,000rpm, but suffered reliability issues till they fitted a rev limiter to it. Top end cam's aren't really much use on the street though.

Yep, AE71, AE86, KE70, T18, all share the same wheelbase, floorpan and steering geometry. The strut tower changes a little, between the models, so you need to use your cars strut tops with the new struts. T18 brakes have a simlar size and pad area as the ADM AE86, so just getting some decent pads in there will make the thing brake alot better.

I did my calcs off the size of the restrictor, not the size of the butterfly. The butterfly comes after the choke dude.

MR2 is a Mid Rear mount car, so they've just use the entire FWD box and engine and chucked it down the back to bake under covers.

The graph you have is for a bare carb with a vaccum device attached free flowing. A peak flow is just a magic number, its like buying a 350hp peak turbo and complaining that your motor doesn't make 350hp. Real world values are the only ones that count. The graph I have there is carby fitment guide, which is closer to the real flow when a carby is being used The numbers you use just don't add up 32/36 choke surface area: 220 CFM/ 1822.123 mm2 =0.121 CFM/mm2 DCOE40 choke surface area : 350 CFM/ 2034 mm2 = 0.172 CFM/mm2 Yes I know there are ram tubes on the carby, and they are much better than a downdraft, but do you really think a DCOE outflows the downdraft by 40% per mm2 of area, seems a little outrageous, love to see a reading on a DCOE 4K under vacuum. Doesn't sound right to me

750cfm, you're dreaming. Don's law states to find approximately what size carb an engine will require at 7000 RPM double the cubic inches So a (1.3L)79 cubic inch motor at 7000 rpm needs 160 CFM So a 350 Cubic inch V8 needs 700 CFM @ 7000rpm. That enough flow for 400hp. I know for a fact you can't flow much past 200hp with 40mm weber's. A twin carby K manifold is not a dual plane manifold, for that to be so cyl 1 and 3 and 2 and 4 should be linked to allow the inlet pulses to come after eachother on each carb. From the graph you can see that you'll have 80cfm per port. The twin downdraft weber will deliver 100 cfm per port, but will flood the crap out of the engine down low, damn my old 4K was a shocker, and that was only a single carb.

32/36 webber is a little large on a 4K as is, around the 200CFM mark. Now consider a 202(approx 3.3L) old holden motor with a mild cam runs like a dream on a 350CFM holley. A 4K with 2 webber's and you're hitting 400cfm on a 1.3L motor. This will run a mild 308 or 253 happily. You want to be in the right flow range to match your motor, with too larger throats you end up with crap all vaccum, and crap torque till you wind it all the way out. Not daily driver material

You'll find some good info floating around on the club, a good search should fine some good info. You can use a factory K series AC braket to mount the charger, makes life very easy, it all just lines up. You gonna go efi or carb?