beerhead

Looks like a nice neat KE30 there doug. Get that polish on your sigma pepper pots :) $500 is a good price for a 5K if you know its in decent nic, add a decent exhaust, a mild cam and some nice induction happening and its easy to come close to doubling there factory output. It's a pity about the 3T, torque is fun, nothing that a few psi can't sort out ;)

So whats the word trev? That ignition module seem to be the goods? Running much smoother than fixed timing?

The radiator won't get over 100 degrees. Most paint should take that pretty easily, it'll definitely be better than nothing.

I'm not sure what people are looking for in the header, here's an oldschool looking one. But I do like the simplicity of the current one

The number of ribs, bearings, crank, rods are much the same. But there is no provision for an external oil drain like a 100kw block. The 20v head had a new design for the oil drain and didn't require an external drain to stop the head filling with oil. You'll have an interference motor with any 16V head on the 20V block. Also the keyway on the crank is a few degree's out of whack. You'll need adjustable timing gears to get it spot on.

What CAS are you running? 4K or 5K is no good, you'll need something much later model, 7K-E ftw. If its a 4KE dizzy, it'll be batch fire you can grind 3 of the 4 prongs off to produce a single home pulse with a 24 tooth speed signal if the ecu is in sequential mode. Was the ecu bought coded to suit the 4K in batch fire or sequential? Do you have a handset? what RPM is is saying at crank? If you're getting around 2400rpm it'll just need some dizzy grinder love :y: I've had the same problem running bigport 4AGE's on smallport configuration.

I've run AE86 coilovers in a KE55 before. All the balljoints from the early (78-86) rwd corolla/corona's are the same. Just run down the wreckers and score some corona steering arms of an XT130 that has a steering box. Even better grab the whole LCA with the steering arms attached. That way you have steering stops and the wheels won't rub on the inner guard, and some negative camber. You'll get some track increase off the struts too.

The blocks are identical, I've even dummied up a 4AC head on one. You'll make an interference motor for sure, but the compression will be up there. If its a smallport head there won't be an oil drain port on the block though.

If you've got a compressor, undo your fuel line where the filter is under the bonnet and blast air through it, it'll make a mess under the back end at which hose it's linked to. Are all 3 pipes on the top the same?

Go spend $250 at an exhaust shop before you try and have it tuned. Did it come with the dizzy that the original motor ran? Or are you running your 4K dizzy? Could be a lack of timing advance too.

I can see 2 identical size pipes. 1 is the breather, 1 is the fuel feed. The small pipe is the return line, and that's what your trying to draw fuel through. It doesn't have a tube going into the fuel :)

If you're going turbo, you need an aftermarket ecu anyhow, no firewall bashing :D You can build a 20V turbo for close to the same money as a 16V turbo if you run GZE pistons. The only extra expense is a custom plenum. I wouldn't be too scared about interference motors snapping valves. I only know one person who's managed to snap a timing belt. Buy a HKS Kevlar belt if your worried. Sam. We've had this chat before, re-read it if you can't remember. I'm saying a mildly built 16V vs 20V (say 270 / 9.5mm lift) with the same spec apart from the heads, the 20V will win the race hands down. Peak figures on a dyno are very misleading, neither are going to be a dyno queen motor. But I think you underestimate how much the VVT helps bottom end torque if you're smart in your build and retain its functionality. If you need weld and grind cams and no-one down there does them get on the blower with Tighe cams in Brisbane. I hope its not them who shut down, there a great mob to deal with, and are world renowned for their custom grinds. What I don't get is sam, you know heaps about the 4A series motor. Your motor runs a custom inlet and tuned length extractors, but, you don't run an aftermarket ecu with a tune to suit Australian fuel and the variables you've changed in your motor, seems like a waste of all that hard work. BTW, There is normally 5 - 6 20V's down at BMI for $750 a pop at any one time, I've never known anyone to have difficulty obtaining one.

Yeah people say that they're better all the time, but isn't it funny that one of the fastest FWD drag cars in Australia is based off a 20V? He's only being beaten by the 2.2L VTEC honda turbo's :D 600cc disadvantage!!! He previously ran a 16V head and got more power from the 20V blacktop one when modified, and it spooled earlier. The standard 20V with a turbo will make more power than a 16V in standard form, longer duration cams and a better flowing inlet would probably have something to do with it. Honestly, I can't wait till someone actually goes full house on a 20V in atmo form. I was playing with an 03 YZ450F 5V head yesterday... mmm titanium valves - will know soon if they fit a 20V :wink: They make 43.7kw and peak torque at 6500 rpm. The 2008 4V version makes 44.1kW and peak torque the same rpm. Under 1% gain going to 4 valves. Not really something to rave about. I honestly think a mild to moderately built 20V with modified VVT advance to ensure non interference would outperform a 16V of the a similar build. It probably won't make more peak power on the dyno, but the torque delivery will be superior due to a retarded inlet cam at lower RPM.

+ 1 for the 7KE. In a KE70 tunnel its tight enough with CA18DET box (needs some sledgey love). The CA20 boxes are an easier fit though. If you want boost, you could rebuild the 7KE with some spool 7AFE rods and throw a small turbo on it and there won't be much that'll touch you in a straight line. You'll probably have to keep feeding it KE70 gearbox's till you find a K-T housing though. Any ke10 guru's out there? Am I right in thinking the KE10 auto's have a bigger tunnel?

The Italian weber is the original. I was told they sold the molds to another company after producing a swag of them, and the Spanish ones aren't quite as good in the tolerances, esp in the carby, which is more important than a nice smooth exterior.

I steer away from valvoline and other cheap filters too. Genuine or ryco are the only way to go. They've got a backflow valve and under cold start they regain oil pressure much faster.

I was taught by a mechanic that Castrol oils don't have enough degreasers in the the mix and tend to gag up most motors over time, he said you may as well be using homebrand motor oil. You can get mineral penrite for the same money, a few more bux and you'll have some HPR semi syn too. I've done shocking things to my motors while using it without failure, it's made in Australia, by and aussie company, and is designed for our conditions, worth every cent for your pride and joy :)

lol, Imagine if you picked up a bird in that belt :)

:P lets hope so, imagine how many trips to the brothel you'd have!

:P I don't want to offend you K banger lovers, been that path before. But I really don't understand why people would spend $500 on a non performance mod for there motor. I hope you've already got a cam, twin webers and extractors. It makes sense if you've got a supercharger and the belts are slipping under boost, but damn, that's a good portion of a 4AGE upgrade! You guys are way into aesthetics, I just hope you don't think hanging your jocks out the top of your shorts is a good look too :jamie:

Yeah, lets hope the barriers were full of water, normally the council can't be bothered.

Toyota rims will be overpriced. If the offset doesn't make the car scrub pretty much any 4 x 100 rim will do the job, it's a very common FWD stud pattern. We're more versed in the old RWD corolla's here, might be worth asking on twincam.org about hub swaps. Either that or just compare the part numbers of the wheel bearings with the other hub you want to use with the correct stud pattern. Adapter rings can be machined to get it to work if there is no match.

From what I've heard they're in the Japanese import vans. I've seen both girlock and the AE86 gear in them, but I didn't actually check the compliance plates to confirm the rumour.

Cheers guys. It was pretty much impossible to get the message across in any other way. There are other forms of bump steer, but I'm fairly certain the reason RA40 gear feels strange and unpredictable is related to this. If you want a good laugh read the same thread on AE86DC. I think I rattled the ego's over there by the way some people where posting, trying to say it's all nonsense. But the fact is, Toyota know heaps more about designing car's than all of us, if you're doing a strut swap you want everything to be as close as the standard geometry as possible, doesn't seem that hard to comprehend to me.

Warning! This might take a minute or 2 to load. (Thought I should put this in a new thread too) I got bored and did a 3D model to explain what words have great difficulty to express. This comes up so often it needs to be explained properly. Steering arms are meant to act on the same plane as the steering rack. The further you are from the plane of the steering rack, the more bump steer you get as the steering arm moves in and out as the strut compresses and rebounds because the pin for the tie rod is not perpendicular with the rack. Don't try and look at the whole thing, just watch the link pin for the tie rod end. Not 100% to scale, but it clearly shows what's going on. Corolla Strut Not too bad in a lowered position, but the steering arm is not on the same plane as the steering rack. RA40 Strut Fitted to corolla with longer LCA's and/or camber tops ... Steering arm is not acting on the same plane at all. Now lets have a look with some Roll center adjusters added: COROLLA RCA Notice that the steering arm now nearly operates on the same plane as the steering rack RA40 RCA There is an improvement of the angle, but it still isn't as good as a factory strut. To some people this kinda thing won't worry you, but it's all about how hard you drive your car, or if you're planning to race competitively. Things like this to the eye don't look like much, but when it comes to shaving a few seconds a lap on the track to mow down a racer with more power it can mean all the difference :fuzz: The steering arm references aren't spot on, but I hope you can visualise what I mean