beerhead

Nice, I can foresee some nice missions to Fraser Island in that beast. 4" lift and a 350 is all your missing :P

In such a small bay it'd be worth throwing away the factory cas, machining out the back off the head and running a 10mm plate over the rear water outlet. Then graft a nissan cas on the front exhaust cam pulley, or run a missing tooth wheel on the crank with a hall effect pickup. The only problem with crank based pulley is you don't get a home signal at cyl 1 TDC, you get one every 360 deg rather than 720 on the camshaft, so there is no way to run sequential ignition or spark.

There's only 3 different stud pattern's on mitsi engines. So machg is right, a sigma, scorpion or starion box should work. They aren't the most sporty or strong box around though from what I've read. If the motor is coil pack it should be fairly easy to setup the CAS on a cam pulley like someone on the club did in there KE20 with a turbo GSR motor, have a search for it.

Bahaha, and people say I'm hard on my camry (note avatar) :y:

Microtech aren't that flashest ecu in the world. Just entry level gear that is fixed to 1 CAS type, and limited auxiliaries features. They're know for needing to be constantly retuned and pretty average fuel economy even when tuned very hard. If you're definite on an aftermarket, track down a tuner in your area you're willing to work with and find out what they get the best results with. To be honest, unless you're going big cam's or a turbocharger, just run a factory ecu. You can get away with the upping the boost a bit, it'll keep it's tune, cold starts will be perfect and you'll get excellent fuel economy. Even better it'll save you $1000's on the ecu and tuning (mmm just think, koni's and custom springs) BTW You can't use a boost controller on a supercharger, there's no waste gate to increase the boost.

The plan is to run 3SGTE rods. The 5SFE run 52mm rod bearings and the 3SGTE run 48mm. It gives you a bit of play with stoke at the right machine shop and should hopefully mean I won't need any custom pistons or rods. I only need to machine off as much of the piston to bump the compression from 9.5 - 10.5 : 1, possibly 1 - 2 mm, the rest can be done with a thin head gasket. They're a dished piston and machining a little off the edges won't actually touch the integrity of the piston in the center, I think they're thick enough to handle it, and this motor will be built on a budget. I'll counter the shorter pistons with an offset reground crank. It'll be interference, but that's gonna happen with the cams I want to run anyhow.

Not much progress, but I do have a motor to take good shots of now sam. I'm putting a new 5SFE in my camry atm, and have a good motor to freshen up. No rattles and even with a blown head gasket still runs well. Going to freshen it up soon, hopefully it doesn't need a re-bore but I'll soon find out :yes: Sam, do you think offset gudgen pins in the piston will make for bad bore wear? I'm thinking so, the rod ratio is bad to start with, and it seems logical that in the V configuration it'd be offset to fight gravity to reduce the sidewall friction. So the 3VZ pistons are probably out of the question for bumping up the compression. So I'm going to have the crank offset reground a few mm and machine down to 3SGTE size conrod bearings. Then I can have the factory pistons machined down to get rid of some dish to let me run 10 + in compression ratio. The other alternative is getting 5SFE with 3SGTE head turbo pistons, which when you add the FE head are going to be up there compression wise too. It's not gonna run boost so forgies are an overkill thinking that extra stroke might be nice too.

Damn, very lucky trev, that could have turned into a nightmare. I was told by a mechanic never to put anti seize on a spark plug. It reduces the ability for plug to loose its heat into the surrounding head causing heat soak in the electrode reducing the life of the plug.

Yeah the rear hats do not use the shock mounts to hold the ass end of the car up.

Don't let these people turn you off if you really want to do up a KE. The problem with buying someones already complete work, is you don't learn anything, most people gain most there car knowledge whilst building cars. $25,000 well spent on a KE will produce an extremely competitive car, probably one that would leave any Silvia for dead. They are right though, cheapest thing is an SR20 half cut to get some go in a KE, as much as I hate mixing and matching engine and shell manufacturers.

4AGZE has been done before with block mods, needs a few mm shaved off here and there. Rumour is the 20V block has the notch you're speaking of. A GZE head and factory manifolds / charger should work ok, pretty low compression though.

:dance: Mmm. 4AGZE bearings, in powdered form! Lets hope the crank is salvageable duggy,

I had a B1800 diff that I was planning to run in a KE. When hunting lsd's I found that the centers all the way to 2002 model mazda bravo's were the same. Didn't check/find anything later model than that though.

OK, thats awesome. So that means a S13 rear IRS cradle might be legal too if done right. Easier to do than the 4 link to from what I've heard aswell.

What I think people are trying to tell you is yes, anything can be done, but at a price. The motor spins the wrong way, there is no RWD gearbox to just bolt it together, and you need to invert your diff. Basically its a nightmare of a conversion, and hasn't been done many times due to the fabrication costs. A 4AGE will cost you 1/4 of the money, take 1/10 of the time to build and have similar power. BTW, 20V bottom end with 16V head makes for high compression, no good for turbo. GZE bottom end and 20V head has been done successfully under boost many times.

You pull it the cam out the front of the motor. Pull off the timing chain and undo the 2 cover bolts and keep the cam level and slide it out. Not an OHC motor, so there's no need to pull the head off while changing cams. I just use a swag of rare earth magnets to stop the lifters falling out with the cam removed. Possibly the lifters are locking the cam in.

The only place you will be able to drive such a car is on the racetrack or the drags, It's illegal to convert to 4 Link, as you have to cut the existing structure at the rear. Also the motor is too big too large to compliance in such a small car.

Every complains about power loss with the E10. My housemate used to complain about his falcon missing and having no bottom end on the stuff with poor fuel consumption. We filled it with a fresh tank of E10 and put it in learn mode. Now it idles smoothly and has better fuel economy than the 95 octane stuff. If you're running a carby you need to advance the base timing a touch, as ethanol burns slower and also have a fiddle with the idle screw to get it sounding right. You will run into problems with the plastic floats in the carby, but I bet that takes years to decay.

20V dizzy is a 24 - 1 wheel, with 2 home pickups, makes the same signal as a GZE cas. No need to mod it.

I've heard around 14:1 compression, it'll run really nice on methanol :)

Yep, there's no decent shock absorbers that will fit in an AE71 strut, thats why most people opt for an AE86 or a corona strut which take the 50mm diam shocks, and give you heaps of selection. For the rear most run commodore wagon shocks. Just have a search through a few threads in the projects section, I bet you'll find what you need to know.

Weekend well spent, what an improvement over a 4AC. I wonder how long the 4AC auto box will hold up to the 4AGE power.

Yeah it was sounding pretty good as it comes on boost at 7psi, but at just under 11 volts didn't cut it in the spark department with the boost wound up. At 13.5V the spark is going to be nearly 20% stronger. I think 250hp at 16psi is doable with good spark, 300hp at 20psi if it takes it. You should wind that wastegate actuator down to 3 psi to get the boot controller working too, will hopefully get rid of those boost spikes. I wouldn't be too worried about how the tune went, just a couple of teething problems, which are always going to show up with a fresh engine swap, esp on the dyno :yes:. All rumours say the 1ZZ coil has enough bang on a 2JZ turbo with 500hp = 83 hp a cyl. So a 4 cylinder should handle about 333hp atw on them.

Don't talk to mechanics about carbies, like you said make sure you talk to a tuner or a carby specialist. There's swags of K motors running great on twin webers in the club. He say's it's got too much fuel being pumped in and change the carby to fix it :jamie: Get it re-jetted, thats what they regulate. Also did you mechanic check your fuel pressure? How is the fuel system setup on the car? Twin webers are the bees knees of the carburetor, your mechanic needs to get up with the times (30 years ago). Have a search of the club, you'll find choke and jet sizes that other members have successfully had there car tuned with. Felix, medicine man and Teddy are some people that come to mind that have sweet setups on there K motors. I hope you get this running right, you have to keep the webers nothing sounds as good or lets a cam do there job as good.

LOL, true, but I'm sure they'll be thinking, what GTE is in that, no 4A has bottom end torque that good.