beerhead

Yeah, I've heard that ACL standard pistons are stronger than a standard toyota ones... seen some pretty wild builds on standard ACL bigport items. My 5S ACL pistons are a much better finish than the standard toyota ones, smoother edges and steel gudgeon pin reinforcement. Yager motorsport are known for some nice engine, but they're pretty pricey. What's the plan for the build?

Yep, bigport and smallport have interchangeable cams. ADM = Australian Domestic Market , JDM = Japanese Domestic market. Pin heights are the same, but bigport have an 18mm gudgeon pin, smallport 20mm. The higher compression is a mix of a smaller volume in the head, and a slightly smaller volume in the dish of the piston. To get the compression about 10 with a bigport head most people run a 0.7mm headgasket as apposed to a 1mm standard one. Oh, I forgot to add the angles between the valves are more square on a smallport too, which apparently is better for power.

The rod ratio is the length of the rod / stroke, nothing to do with the bore of the engine. sr20 rod length = 136.3 / 86mm stroke = 1.58 Rod ratio sr16 rod length = 145mm / 68.7mm stroke = 2.11 Rod ratio!! F20C rod length = 153 mm /84mm stroke = 1.82 Rod ratio The longer your rod, the the more parallel to the block the vector of force is applied on the crank from the rod, the longer your bearings will last and the less the pistons skirts will eat the bores out of your block. Catch 22 : the shorter the rod ratio, the more leverage your rod puts on the crank, the more bottom end torque the motor will develop :( The SR16's are a rev monster. They're comparable to an average motorbike motor for its ability to rev from these specs, the SR20 won't be as happy having the ring revved out of it, but the will make heaps better torque that's for sure. BTW, I'd just tack the extractors together and get an exhaust shop to weld it up. They fill the pipes with inert gas before welding to ensure that the weld flows through without oxidisation. This stops the welds cracking under extreme heat. Sounds like you've been researching this really well though, can't wait to see the results ! I hope my 5S will keep up :)

They run semi-sequential injection, so 2 banks of injectors, as apposed to the batch fire of the bigport. Compression went from 9.6:1 to a touch over 10:1, and the smaller ports sped up the intake velocity. They also got rid of the TVIS system and went back to single runners on the intake manifold too. The funny part is the smallport cam's have slightly shorter duration and less lift than a big port hey. I should also add that that a JDM bigport ecu is rated at 98kw on good fuel, adm at 86kw or so.

Sounds a little ambitious, which is always good. But 150rwkw is going to need at least 9-10,000rpm and some major oiling mods I'd think. They're a cam switcher at least, so it is possible to have some bottom end power. Now F20C's and SR16VE's have comparable rod ratios(1.8+ from memory) and ability to sustain high revs without exploding due to this, but once you go 2L you'll be back at 1.6 RR, which is a potential bearing chewer at over 8-9000rpm. The longer the rod, the slower the piston speed, which dynamically has the same effect as running a longer duration camshaft. So I doubt 280duration 11mm lift will cut the mustard to get enough rev's out of the motor to hit those kind of figures once the motor is stroked. You'll probably just end up with the same power as an SR20VE, which has peak power at 6000rpm, so it's going to need something 300 + duration to pull those kinda figures. Nice engine choice though, if they came RWD people would be all over these nice VVTI Nissan motors.

Yes, it is usable, but will require mods to fit. An AE71 cluster is the way to go if you want a bolt in conversion.

You slide it in and spin the cam so it doesn't catch on the bearings. Just jiggle it a little and spin and it'll find its way back where it belongs.

There should be some code on the net for a type the text from the jpg algorithm to make it hard for bots to make accounts hey.

It's probably because he has the motor already. They're a twin spark motor and my mate's old gazelle had a fair bit of poke. Being a brother of the CA18DET which is used a fair bit in old corolla's, it'll bolt in with custom gearbox and crossmember mods/mounts. Then down the track if you feel the need a CA18DET would drop right in its place.

5.7L engineerable ? I highly doubt that hey, maybe if you fitted a flux capacitor and went back to 1988 :P No need for transmission tunnel mods if you run a trimatic, just search the club, you'll find madrolla's 253 KE30 somewhere, which had no firewall mods. I bet the biggest problem when you run a taller 350 Block wlll be the V shape of the motor putting the drivers side head in an spot that'll interfere with brake booster. Look at some of the ground work of littleredspirit if you want some more space there using a BMW hydraulic booster, either that or run a remote booster.

You'll be driving car's for years with any luck mate, get your suspension tip top, and save up your money and do a killer conversion when you get off your P's :y:

Your on the money. A track car will need an air to air for it's light weight setup and thermal efficiency at speed, but they suffer heat soak at low speed and sitting at the traffic lights. A water to air is a drag racers best friend, use pure ethyl glycol and store a 5L drum of it in your freezer. Keep it in the esky in the back seat and the radiator for the intercooler empty. Fill it up in the pits before your 1/4 mile pass :) You really should have a map tuned for it though. Almost no heatsoak if you run an aftermarket ecu to trigger the coolant pump at a set speed.

A 12V LED is just an LED and a resistor in one package. As someone previously mentioned, wire the led's in batches of 3 leds in series to make a circuit that has enough resistance to not burn them out.

Talk about digging up a dinosaur! Looks like a bit of a squeeze there mungi! What box are you planning to run? ... LOL I just noticed your pics are as old as this thread, not much of a street car I take :D

All the older microtechs you can change from boost to TPS based tune at the press of a button. Just a have a read of the manual.

I love the car dude! But I'm mystified by this whole stretched rubber on the wide rims fad, a car that is driven on the edge needs much more room for suspension travel. It's just not worth having such wide wheels if you can't run the wide rubber that they're designed for. I've heard under track conditions that stretched tires tend to fall off as well. I don't intend to offend all the lovers of the stretch fit tires, but if you're doing this mod for looks while negating performance it's worth thinking about what you intend your car to be.

4K lifters are a smaller diameter than the 5K gear. You can use solid 202 holden lifters or get solid 5K lifters. There isn't much wrong with running the hydraulic gear, but you need to have the rocker towers machined down at the base to get it right. BTW a 3K head on a 5K dish motor will decompress the motor and be more suited for boost. 5K heads have the lowest dish volume of K heads I've heard of.

You've blocked the overflow of the carby and are pressurising the bowl and it's force feeding fuel into the motor. Plug that second "intake" onto the return line of the car.

Reminds me of the new metal health funding legislation that's meant to be coming in. If your state doesn't ratify to the protocol, making a dope smoker as bad in the laws eyes as a heroin junky, your state won't get there cut of the pie. One day the right people might get a grip that the world will never be a Utopian wonderland, only people with no real experience of the world are so naive.

One of the top hits on google atm. Yes it is happening. Putting a decent sized motor in your corolla will be an option in QLD in the coming months. In my opinion any federal law supersedes a state law. Well it looks like you need a 3.6L 180kw alloytech motor for it to be legal then ... what a shame.

Under the federal laws you can engineer 4 x the capacity. So it is possible to make it legal. QLD just went to the federal code, so It is feasible that the other states may follow suit. But yeah, if you like corners, there's piles of better conversions out there. 3VZ-FE is an overlooked option, but are a little bit like a 7M when it comes to gaskets.

Sweet, def worth it if you've already got the gear there. Pity you're not in bris, a mate's LS1 cost him $800 to fit, plumb and tune a Vortech charger on his 1 tonner VT at the brock shop.

7K-E's are a late 90's motor. Jetronic has been dead since the late 80's. You'll be able to tell by looking at the dizzy pickups. If it's a 24- 1/4 arrangement, definitely late model digital gear. If there's only 4 prongs under the cap it's a jetronic. I'm sure I've read running a 7K dizzy is the way to go for a late model programmable ignition on a K motor, so I'm fairly sure it'll be a TCCS item.

Blow off valves, are there to vent excess air that a turbo is currently pumping to reduce the amount of pressure flow back that happens between the turbo and the throttle body when the throttle body closes. The vent of air allows the turbo to free spin happily and give you a boost in power between the gears, as the turbo doesn't stall and slow down. With a supercharger the pump runs off the engine, possibly the the ecu may disengage the clutch of the charger between gears, which makes for some gains using a blow off valve. But any supercharger without a clutch; vortech and most whipple charges, a blow off valve will be ineffective and probably mean more lag between gears. That said, there is always the point where the throttle body caves in under huge pressure as throttle closes between gears at high rpm in big horsepower supercharged cars. A blow off valve uses a piston with intake manifold pressure on one side, and constant turbo pressure on the other. With even pressure the piston won't move because there is a spring that maintains a default closed position, but as the the throttle shuts vacuum state begins in the intake manifold and the piston gets forced under the boost, and sucked under the vacuum to slide in its bore and open the valve. With a GZE throttle location this just doesn't happen.

Yep, XT130 corona are the ones.