beerhead

Come on dude, I think you may be blowing things a little out of proportion. There will be moments like this so many times through your life. I don't think you should up and leave over a little heated topic with a drunk like me :) I'm not rollaclub :)

:) Do remember I've been playing with corolla's since you were in primary school. This is a public forum mate, people post opinions all the time, it's how most of us learn and better our cars. If you don't want feedback on your car, I'd recommend not posting it on any forums. I use others opinions to expand my knowledge, many just sit back and say they know it all. Here's a nice fact for you: If you come unstuck and kill someone with such a stretch fit tyre on your car you will be in jail for murder. Have you ever wondered why most tyre shops won't fit up 185's on even an 8" wide wheel?

A 160kw car will be faster around most race tracks. Linear throttle response is the key to high speed cornering, 300kw in a corolla is going to be lag or spinning the wheels when on boost, not really what most track racers aspire too. Great for dropping skids to impress bogans in there commodores though :y:

I've got a spare W55, might be interested in a swap. So are the rumours true that the late W58 bellhousing pattern doesn't match its predecessors?

Fuse

Surprised that they're under bucket, but how does this makes the valve train not similar to a yamaha motorbike? Straight from the dictionary: sim⋅i⋅lar    /ˈsɪmələr/ Show Spelled Pronunciation [sim-uh-ler] Show IPA –adjective 1. having a likeness or resemblance, esp. in a general way: two similar houses. 2. Geometry. (of figures) having the same shape; having corresponding sides proportional and corresponding angles equal: similar triangles. Toyota and Yamaha have similar heads in likeness of there valve trains. I compared YZF450 5V heads and a 20V 4age head recently, and they are nearly identical in port design and valve angles. BTW, we were talking about yamaha and toyota heads, not interested in ducatti's.

I disagree. In shape and size they may nothing in common, but in terms of how their internal moving parts work, they are identical to any Yamaha shim over bucket system through to the present.

If you want twin carbies for a 4AC, the easiest option is to get hold of some factory 3A-U twin downdrafts. They come in those 2 door corolla II's from the mid 80's. Rare, but I've seen 2 sets come up on ebay Australia in the last 2 years.

I did some research today about incandescent bulbs. When cold they draw 15 times the current of a warm filament, for 0.13 of a second according to wiki. Most test lights run a 3 watt bulb, which means 3 x 15 = 45w at start up. So I still don't think you can burn out an ecu by pluggin one in. Heat is what damages mosfets, so testing them on a bulb for 3 seconds isn't going to burn out the ecu. But then again, those figures are based on low impedance injectors. Maybe it's a no no on the high impedance gear that draws low current. On an early bigport ecu the injectors are in batch fire, so with the other injectors unplugged you could draw 200W before there is an issues, as they're all wired in parallel.

I think you've been misinformed, there is no way a bulb will damage an ecu. A typical injector will draw between 1 and 4 amps depending on the engine load Power = Current x voltage So that's 12 to 48 watts of power consumption for each injector. A typical indicator bulb is rated at 5 W, so a little tiny test light bulb is going to draw under 0.5 amp.

Much easier to just put a test light on an injector plug to test if the ecu is getting a signal. Flashing light = injectors pulsing and the ecu is getting a signal.

It could be the igniter module.

Plus 30 will have your rims rubbing on the struts. That's a FWD offset. My old +20's needed a 7mm spacer as there was only 1mm of space between the rim and the strut. 4 - 12 is ideal on a RWD corolla, +4 may need a light roll of the lip if you run wide rubber.

I've done this in the past on my old 20V. It works, but the arc that the lock bolt for the alternator slides in doesn't align very well.

The centering for lock to lock either side is the controlled by pitman arm which has a groove that means they only go on one way to the steering box. If your wheel alignment is good already you can just throw the new box in. Then just recenter the wheel.

Great find! Looks very original. BTW, I'd leave the tow bar on and just remove the tongue. All leaf spring KE's have a saggy rear and and a reinforcing rail between the rear rails is quite noticeable for the handling of the car.

You do realise that those 7 second 3T's have billet cranks and capacity around 2.2L... In the real world ... HP / L is how you should compare motors, not 1/4 mile times. 1.6/2.2*700 = 509 hp. That's the power that backyarders 20V turbo is making, and he's running 9 sec passes in FWD. I bet in a RWD shell he'd crack into the 8's. I personally wouldn't fit a 1970's technology motor into a car when there are so many other choices out there.

That's nice power you got out of your 20V sam, I'll have to get you to design my extractors if you're keen :dance: Engine swaps are a pain, there are too many choices ... It's easier not to think about the motor at first, think about what you want the car to be. A corner speed machine, a fast accelerating drag car or a drift car. Of course, like all of us we want them all, but it ends up becoming a compromise of some sort when the car is street driven. What's your plan of use for this car?

Basically your comparing apples, oranges and banana's. All of the the motors above have there advantages, be it price, torque, or power delivery. 20V's are only rumoured to have bad bottom end torque due to poor tuning when running open velocity stacks. Well tuned they have a great linear power curve and keep on giving to well over 7200rpm. If you like cornering you want a nice progressive power curve, something that's easy to put down and not just all of a sudden have your torque double and induce wheel spin. If you want to beat all the bogans in there VL turbo's or V8 commonwhores, a 4AGZE or 4AGTE will definitely be a better choice. If you're a lover of atmo motors and like ITB induction noise you can't look past a 20V. On a race track a stock 20V will leave a stock 4AGZE for dead if well driven. They are a more challenging motor to drive fast, but if you're good on the stick and keep the revs up they are a great track motor.

I'm pretty sure Fook (Demuire) has done a KE55 to KE70 rack conversion before. Which physically is similar dimensions to an AE86 powersteering rack. If you reverse the pivot points of the steering the pinion will be on the wrong side of the rack and steering right will make your car turn left (which I think you understand) You'll definitely need to work out a rack that's go the pinion in the right spot. I'd think about tracking down a front 1JZ sump to save you problems, then running an AE86 powersteering rack will be relatively straight forward.

Happy birthday dude! Will have to catch up for a beer sometime soon :party:

SV21 and ST185 Inserts are the same length, 330mm from memory, about 35mm shorter than the XT130/AE86 Shock. The ST185 are a very short stroke shock., the SV21 are about 40mm longer in shaft length. Make sure you get a Koni weld on coilover kit. The aluminum ones are junk and shouldn't be seen on any car.

If it was a 3 cylinder charade you'll have to send it back to microtech to be reconfigured for $200ish. Microtech's are annoying because they aren't user configurable in terms of what engine they can be triggered off. Self tuning is a pretty slow process, you need to datalog piles of data. 2 hours on a dyno to get a base map is definitely worth while, then I'd data log whilst under different driving conditions using a wide band and make small changes to the tune.

I reakon it might be worth trying the Jaycar programmable ignition module. Can be configured to work with factory dizzy's reluctance pulse from a bigport dizzy too. I personally haven't used one yet, but jaycar sell some decent gear hey. Only drama is you need to be handy with a soldering iron...

Here's some more period specific wheels chopped on LittleRed's request