beerhead

BTW there is a way to get a 3SGE on a 2S bellhousing without shaving it. Not sure I should let the cat out of the bag or everyone will be doing this conversion once I show how easily it can be done :wink:

Long time no see! Awesome move just building 1 car, weren't you up to 4 project cars a while ago :wink: Great to see your back on RC, have to go for a cruise when my rolla is up and running.

I bought a complete SA63 to strip for all the parts I need cost me $400, and I sold the rest of the panels are spares for what I bought the car for. If you take your time collecting the parts it'll save you a fortune. At the moment my conversion has cost -$100 including a nanna spec KE70. I'm doing most of the work myself, so I'm hoping to have my conversion going for around 2 grand.

I've started a gen 2 3SGE convo in my KE70. Needs: Custom crossmember Factory SA63/ST141 metal engine mounts (I'm modifying AE71 rubber mounts to suit) SA63/ST141 2SC sump and oil pickup Cut and shut manifold Custom extractors / Nasty 5SFE fwd cast manifold with rear facing collector Custom gearbox Xmember W55 from an SA63 or bellhousing for use on another W5X box Custom tailshaft Aftermarket ECU or custom module for wasted spark on factory ECU If you want an easy conversion, I'd look elsewhere, but it would smoke most 4AGE's - torque wins races!

Holy crap batman! Man, it's obscene the amount of power this thing makes. Has to be a 9 second winner if it can put its down now. Dude, look at that flat spot up top, could you imagine what some 300 duration cams would do to that car for peak hp, ffs, a range of 50mph on the dyno making flat power, what the! There is so much more in that motor with that turbo setup, I'm sure reliability must turn to crap even on a 2J when you're pushing 1000hp, but it'd be so legendary! Have to go for a cruise some time, on a windy mountain road pointing down hill :D

You got it in one. Every person I've ever heard of using a 1-2 and 3-4 linked ports manifolds on a 4K with a single webber have sold it on. It just doesn't breath right.

When I jetted my Nikki I ended up with Mazda 323 primary and Mazda 626 secondary jets respectively. Most people who have a nikki tuned properly on a K motor get 450km+ out of a tank. You can put a screw in the vaccum secondary actuator to make it come on earlier, takes a bit of experimentation to get nice though. I made heaps more power like that, but it was using over 12L/100. I street drove a 88/42 cam with a nikki and extractors for 2 years, I didn't have a choice but to rev to 5 grand minimum each gear, drank an average of 10L/100 with the secondary running on vacuum.

Glad to see someone is making use of that Subi 4WD! f@$king Fireworks battles too!! epic

Doh, I hate it when shit like that happens. You can't swap the pinion input's over?

I'm pretty sure the W55 and G52 both suffer from the high ratio 1st and 2nd gears. The W57 and the W58 boxes are generally more sourced after because they have less of a ratio jump between 2nd and 3rd. It will work and drive OK, but being geared for a torquey diesel it won't give you the best acceleration due to the rev drop between 2nd and 3rd taking you out of the motor's peak torque range under extreme driving. If it's just a cruiser and not a track car you'll probably not be too frustrated by it. I know for a fact the G series and W series housings have the same bellhousing so you could use any other W box too.

There's been plenty of people over the years get 300hp atw with 4AGZE's without any internal work and just a well suited turbo charger, some went for weeks, some went for years. The smallport vs bigport debate is an old one. The reduced size of the ports was done to increase port speed and bottom end torque, for street driven motors. Funnily enough the formula atlantic head was based off the bigport, and most engine builders say for under 200hp the smallport is better, and for 200hp+ the bigport is the way to go. Port the crap out of your head and the gains are very negligible between the 2 though. I reakon the smallport's 10:1 compression ratio plays a hand in making the extra power aswell.

Damn dude, sorry to hear... glad everyone came out in one piece. Way too many of RC's best car's have come to an end of late, Re-shell! It'd be sad to see all this great work come to such and abrupt end.

All you need is the plugs, get a new loom with your ecu and just splice the connectors on the end. You'll just need to power up the injectors, coil(s) and igniter(s) and the TVIS. Most of the new ecu's have an integrated MAP sensor, I'd work out what ecu you to get before getting too many accessories. If you're going aftermarket you could go wasted spark or COPS too, so make sure you plan it out before you buy too much gear. BTW I thought the aussie delivered 4age MR2's ran the AFM setup...

Is the knock sensor plugged in?

Did you put marks on your dizzy so that if could be put back in properly?

Most toyota motors past 1970 run hardened valve seats out of the box and don't need modification to run unleaded fuels. So you're wasting money if you're putting valve save through your 4K.

Nice! That's a much easier way to get a honda in a fwd corolla. As much as F20C's are a great motor it'd be a nightmare to fwd it.

They commonly call this "dieseling on" on a petrol motor. It's formed by red hot carbon deposits on your pistons or your valves being hot enough to spontaneously burn the fuel air mix as it comes into the motor. Not a real drama.

Bealy! This is turning into one of the most wild rides on Rollclub. This will give toyota respect in the turbo 2L's you better spank those datto powered rollas !! :P

What have you done with all the factory EGR gear? I reakon you've got a vaccum leak somewhere there. Did winding the mixture screw all the way out help? I'd say you've got a manifold leak of some sort.

If it's a bigport 4AGE you could try running a JDM AE86 ECU to make a few extra ponies. Needs a speed sensor input to make the extra power though. AE101 GZE or 20V brakes are a good upgrade from the factory.

Nice! Will take a bit of tweaking, but I reakon you've gone down the right road getting rebound and compression adjustable shocks. Let's face it, most the shocks used in corolla's are from car's with totally different characteristics, and that should solve all the drama's.

That's some nasty corrosion. If you're lucky you'll be able to get the timing gear off the crank. WD and some pullers... I don' think the old pry and tap with a hammer will work there. Then with some vice grips you might be able to pull the key out of the crank with any luck. Toyota should have the part number for a new key with any luck.

Damn, looks tidy dude. You get all the sweet rolla's in NZ. I can't believe how weak toyota australia were!!

On methanol that'd be fine for boost :y: I really wouldn't be boosting such a hi performance atmo motor. It'll go like all hell without boost hey. I'd be researching if factory SR20DET pistons will work in your block if you have the boost bug.