beerhead

Great to hear its a goer. You sort out a throttle cable for it?

Sick of all the decent tracks shutting down. If it's anything like the problems in QLD it's just the idiotic yuppies who've moved into the urban sprawl that's slowly crept up too close to the race track. Then rather than moving away they write umpteen letters to the government that have in turn inforced harsher noise regulations and limited the hours of operation on the track. OMFG I just went to the oran park raceway webpage - and there it was! House and land opportunities... grrrr

Sam, just wondering why would you say that the aftermarket rods are better suited to atmo engines? Chrome moly is good stuff, very light for the load it can handle, I would have thought the weight reduction, increased strength and added big end bearing rigidity would make the motor last longer than a motor built with standard rods of any variety.

The workshop did the shifty mate, and your boss is just venting the f#$k up at you. Sounds like just bad luck that the tensioner bolt* snapped, nothing that happened could you have anticipated or avoided. It's standard procedure to dummy fit the belt before the head comes off and check with a compression testor or run the motor to make sure the valves are OK. They have admitted that they weren't sure if the head needed work, and decided to sting your boss for the "Worst case scenario repair" without checking the damage so they've comitted fraud saying that it "must to be done". It would have taken 20 minutes for them to fit up the new belt to guarantee that the head was damaged, and they didn't do there job. Report them to the MTAA, workshops like this deserve to be shut down and the owners put in jail. If you don't report them they'll rip off your mum your nanna and every other person you know who's not mechanically minded.

Hey, It's a bit hard trying to work out what your issue is atm without seeing what you've done. Power up the following - -TVIS - Ignition 12V to 1 pin -Injectors - Ignition 12V to 1 pin -Coil and igniter - Ignition 12V -ECU plug 2 pins - Ignition 12V and 1 - 12V const The ECU then switches ground using an NPN transistor to complete the circuit on the injectors and igniters, it doesn't supply 12V to anything. The other possibility is the engine harness main ground not being bolted to the intake. You probably should have the coil and igniter wired through a relay on a separate circuit directly to the battery to reduce interference too.

Damn. What a nightmare... I've pulled apart most of the S engines around, they have such huge recesses cut for the valves that it should be nearly impossible to clip the valves on the pistons, maybe revving on the limiter they could interfere if a timing belt snapped, but it shouldn't happen unless aftermarket high lift cams are fitted. On my Camry if you look to the right hand side of the head near the rear water outlets you can see a 15 x 10mm chunk of head gasket hanging out. If that doesn't look shiny and new I doubt the heads been off. If it looks crusty ask to see the receipt from the machine shop for the head repairs when they refuse, tell them they're being reported to the MTAA for illegal activities and it is within your right to hold them liable for the value of the repairs not carried out and stress and mental anguish over the ordeal that only happened due to there fraudulent activities.

A car that "will beat everything out there" should, as LRS said beat them in the corners too. Being quick in a straight line is just power to weight and good traction. Make it go around corners mate! So much more fun!

Love the wheels in the 3rd shot and those seats look like new! Nice score man, has a lot going for it over some of the rusty KE's getting around. Welcome to the club!

Put up a photo of the brakes in question, I'm sure someone on here may recognise what they are.

A mates KE70 stretched the original and a second handle clutch cable on a HD exedy over a couple of weeks before we fitted a brand new one, drove really well after that. The reason I don't like PBR clutches is a mix of personal experience and a couple of mates running HD PBR's. What I've found is if you flat shift a gear and have the clutch not hold the power for more than a second or 2 they're ruined and you'll never put down the power properly again, Duggy's PBR behind a 4AGTE was toast in 2 weeks, from only one moment of slip. The standard exedy with close to 200,000km's in the old camry took hard shifts happier than the 10,000km PBR that's in there now, but I will admit it's really light and easy to drive.

Coming together awesome Jip! Great to see you're not slutting around with 8 old rolla's and just loving one now :)

3K "bigport" head. Name says it all, has slightly larger ports than a 4K, but are generally getting so ratty by now that most people just port out a 4K head to the same size. Have a look in the building a tough K motor in the FAQ. Lumpy cam is just referring to its idle, if it sounds lumpy it normall has a longer duration and more top end power. Most modded street K motors run a 25/65 or 70/30 cam. Cheap as to get a regrind made - Tighe cams in Brisbane is a common choice here, will make a cam to your desires. I don't like the 32/36 webbers on a 4K, they're just a little too big, great up top end, but sacrifice the bottom end of the powerband. In the past I used to run a rejetted Nikki gemini carby with a very lumpy cam. Had decent economy and some get up and go. If you don't mind spending $1000 on carby's definitely go some side draft 40mm webbers /dellorto's. Extractors show up from on the club and ebay time to time, I'm not sure if pacemaker still has new ones on shelf. 2 - 2 1/4 " exhausts is normally what people run on the K motors if you want a racy sound, 1 3/4 " system is the go if you don't want it to attract attention. Factory toyota clutches are strong as, just see if it slips first. I'd go an exedy heavy duty if you have any drama's.

I think that info may be wrong going over all of it again... I wonder if there's 2 different splines on W boxes? 7K toynace definitely a W55 exedy say - 28.9mm spline 3SFE spacia - definitely a W55 exedy say - 29.8mm spline 28.9's AE92, 1.6 Ltr, 4AGZE Supercharged 253mm bolt hole P.C.D. (152) from 10/90 Year 1990... Size, Spline OD & No. of Teeth 230 X 28.9 X 21 KR42R, 1.8 Ltr, 7K Year 1996... Size, Spline OD & No. of Teeth 215 X 28.9 X 21 29.8's RA60, 2.0 Ltr Year 1981 to 1983: Size, Spline OD & No. of Teeth 225 X 29.8 X 21 KM36, 1.5 Ltr Year 1986 to 1992: Size, Spline OD & No. of Teeth 200 X 29.8 X 21 YM21, 1.8 Ltr Year 1984 to 1985: Size, Spline OD & No. of Teeth 215 X 29.8 X 21 SR40R, 2.0 Ltr, 3SFE, (most common) Year 1998 to 2002: Size, Spline OD & No. of Teeth 225 X 29.8 X 21

Your in luck, I found these a while back. I'm still confused about the 212mm clutch discs, the new 20V clutch I bought a while back said 215mm on the box, so I'd guess 212 and 215mm are the same thing. 7K townace = is 215 X 28.9 X 21 I just noticed the 5K liteace doesn't match the W spline so its been removed.

FWD clutch swaps are a pain without a crane or a hoist, not saying it can't be done, but it is tedious. Probably looking at $700-1000 for a walk in walk out clutch swap if the mechanic is honest, but I've heard of people getting stung much worse. A good set of tools and a torque wrench is a must to do the job properly. BTW don't touch PRB (clutch industries) clutches if you drive your car hard. I'm not impressed with mine.

Straight off Exedy's web page - 4AGE 24.1mm x 21 spline 4AGZE 28.9mm X 21 spline (Same as a W55)

Hey, heavy duty clutches are good, just don't get a PRB Clutch Industries clutch of any variety with a powerful car, slip it once and get the friction material hot and they slip for ever more. As everyone said, there's no way to be 100% certain until you remove the motor from the gearbox. There's a chance they may have been lazy and just used the factory gearbox. BTW All the atmo 4A's have the same spline, but I'm fairly sure though the GZE has a bigger spline.

As others said you'll never be fast off the mark with a 4K. The reason many of us are into the corolla's is how nimble to drive they become with a bit of suspension work. Possibly it might be worth modding the suspension on the car first. Look out for a 5K 1.5L or a 7K 1.8L down the wreckers, its the easiest way to make a bit of extra power, and won't require custom engine mounts. If your on your P's this probably won't even be legal...

ADM AE86 and AE71 tanks are basically the same thing, possibly the filler caps are screw in for the AE86 though. Not an upgrade, no baffles in the ADM tank. Will bolt straight up though. What LRS was talking about was the VT onwards commo intank surge tank being fitted to the stock KE70 tank. Surge tank You'll see it down the list with in those pics. Needs a metal ring laser cut and brazed to the tank, and custom gasket too. The reason I'm going down this path is to not require 2 pumps or an external tank. The fuel pump has 2 in's and out's and I won't have to put up with the drone of a rattler in the boot.

S motors into KE's can be done, but you really want to have it all planned out, and be able to fabricate most of the parts yourself. I'm part way through a 3S into KE swap atm. I've been reading information and harassing everyone I can find who's done the swap in the past over about 7 years before attempting the swap, and very little of the information out there has been useful... in fact most of its contradictory and made more doubts... BTW going rate of a runner 5S in QLD is $500 - $1000 so get that sucker on ebay, someone will definitely want it.

Or if you like something programmable take a look at those Jaycar ignition kits. Best $80 you could spend IMO. Retain the factory dizzy, add a generic 12V coil and igniter and you're laughing.

I was waiting for the White Knight to show up at matts and I heard this deafening roar from up the street. Is it a truck? Is it a tank? No - its a dirty old 4AC with a hectic custom hi-flow exhaust :lolcry: Great to see it on the road, gonna be a fun little car soon enough.

Have a bit of a google for Megajolt programmable ignition. A while back I read some good articles on setting up a base timing map on them, and there was also many base maps you could use from other vehicles to get an idea whats going on. Though the best way to get the most power would be a quick dyno run.

Cool, as long as the head came off another dished motor you're laughing. Put the 2 heads side by side. If the replacement head is 1.5-2mm shorter it'll put the compression up too high, similar height all good.

If the 7AFE cams have a bigger base circle on the lobes I'd say you may be able to get a regrind done, the more difference in height, the more lift and duration you should be able to get. As for the ECU I'd think that the 7AFE would have a lower rev limit and retarded timing advance over the 4AFE, probably a downgrade more than anything. I'd be trying a 100kw 4AGE ecu over the 7AFE. You'd just have to double check the injector wiring matches between the 2 motors, they'll either be sequential or in banks or 2 injectors.