beerhead

OMFG - That crown is looking like its former glory and how it looked in the photo's on ebay :) Nice work man, those kinda repairs would have costed you a overrated at any panel shop, or more... Will be up the coast again within the next month or so, I'll have to pop around if I get a chance, would love to see the full collection in person. BTW there's a dude in Yandina with that sprays and rents out booths that does paint jobs on fully prepped cars for chips. I'll dig up the details if you like, the paint job on my mates VT was prime.

Lol there's what looks to be a KE70 parked on the left as the vid starts

I did think about a tap style Idle control on your rig Niz, but the reason behind the idle controller is to idle up when the motor is cold, and then drop the revs off a touch as it comes to temp. You can just wind out the throttles. but it has to be done with the aid of one of these Throttle sync tools or the motor will not be too happy. I was thinking the other day, a 20V really doesn't have that bigger duration cams stock, and VVT function means the cam should be in lower down power areas of overlap... so the erratic idle at low rpm on a 20V is possibly due to poor synchronisation of the throttles. When the throttles are open the variance in flow as a percentage of the total air going into the motor wouldn't be as much and it'd rev through clean. The only other think I could think of is that the high idle could be because of 3 intake valves creating erratic vacuum at low rpm. Coming along awesome Mate, can't wait to see it on the road.

I've spent many a night on youtube killing hours watching every group B vid I could find. Group B was an amazing form of motorsport, such a shame about it coming to an end. I still don't understand why they didn't have tighter regulations about people being on the roads during a race, I wonder if it would still be around today in one form or another if they would have been more stringent keeping onlookers further off the track. mmm RWD and AWD 600+ hp rally cars head to head - what a spectacle - V8 super car power on gravel ;)

Hey from the plugs I've seen over the years normally the following applies - Grey = SVD10 5SFE camry = 100kw, gen 2 onwards 3s, 20V 4age Yellow = SV21 3SFE camry = bigport 4AGE plugs, gen 1 3S Useful to know because the power plug for the ECU is normally forgotten when someone pulls out the loom. Grab the circuit opening relay(Fuel pump) while you're at it too.

Haven't seen one in a KE10 - Foxtail had one in a KE70 in the on Rollaclub though.

Smallport coil will work - But I'm fairly sure you'll need a bigport igniter

Yep, Kia's have to be up there as the culprit of some of the worst engines ever made - my old housemate used to do the factory servicing. The sleeve issue in the carnival is a classic. The hole in the gasket for the piston is bigger than the outer diameter of the sleeve, the piston slap just loosens the sleeve which starts slapping on the head and the whole motor fills with coolant. The 100,000km service = install crate motor. Not to mention they had a celebration down the workshop when they saw the first Kia diesel motor make it to 180,000kms before needing a fresh crate motor for resurrection - it was such a big deal that this motor was sent back to Korea for inspection.

Yep, From what toyota_ae71 is saying it seems T18 T50 shifter might match the early K50 shifter, and AE71-AE86 T50 match the later KE70 K50 shifter.

Yep - Late model KE70 K50 shifter is the same as a T50 shifter - dime a dozen at the wreckers.

Holy crap - those figures are getting impressive. Look at those AFR's - looks like its still a fairly safe tune too - there's still more power hiding there! Found any giant waste gates to help get this off the line yet? The other thing I was thinking about for this car the was launch control, possibly without even dropping the boost down with closed loop timing retard it won't wheel spin as badly off the line.

Some of the AE71 wagons run AE86 struts out of the box. The main reason people go the AE86 struts is shock absorber selection. There's oodles of shocks available that'll fit into a AE86 strut (53mm OD) over the AE71 /KE70 struts (48mm OD). AE86 brakes are a bit better too hey.

You forgot to mention you need to run hectic 8 - 10 kg front, 6-8 kg rear spring rates. That way with 2mm of suspension travel you barely scrub the guards, and it's just your vertebrae of your spine scrubbing together on the bumps :y: With proper tyre fitment you need bolt on flares or big weld ons to make use of 0 to negative offset on any corolla chassis apart from an AE86. As matt said with some uber stretch it can fit, but whats the use of an 8" wide rim with 4" of rubber touching the ground.

If you don't want to turbo it you'd probably have to get aftermarket cams for any serious gains. Costs a bit of cash to do the shims, add an aftermarket ecu for better gains if you go too wild with them. A factory airbox with a KnN panel filter will probably make more power that a cheap pod too. Apart from that you could try and tweak the cam timing to get better response and try running with nice quality plugs and leads.

What brand of ecu you running again? I wonder if you can setup an electric boost control solenoid off a speed sensor to limit the power at launch based on wheel speed. I'd run it off the front wheel so that wheel spin doesn't get it out of whack. It's a pain to get right if it doesn't have closed loop boost detection, but many of the later model ecu's can do amazing stuff. Launch control has its place in cars like this too, would do wonders at launch, but many people are very purist when it comes to letting electronics do any of the thinking for things that are normally up to the driver. Probably not as soul destroying as a drive by wire car though.

Damn, I never thought such a little car would put the power down so well! I'm a fool for doubting that powerglide. Is this thing setup with launch control or are you keeping this old school?

Great read, lets hope it's a Toyota. Looks so butchered from original it's really hard to tell. Lets just hope it hasn't had a Lada engine swap done!

This sounds exactly the way I'm planning to run a CAS on my 3S - later model oil pump with a built in trigger wheel and a bolt on the exhaust cam wheel to fire a standard toyota electric dizzy pickup hiding behind the rear upper timing cover. I thought about the balance issue and figure if I mirror the bolt on the other side and have it 3 mm shorter than the trigger bolt the balance will be very close to perfect.

Its awesome to see your fixing that old wagon, such a rare car on the road, I've never seen one drive by. What kind of stall rpm will the auto be setup at on the SR?

2 x 3SGE engines and boxes and 8 assorted Toyota ECU's for $400 - Payed for an SA63 and an adaptronic ECU with the change. The finance package for my RWD KE70 build :jamie:

Hmm doesn't sound right mate, both run the same gearbox, so I'm not sure how with a 20V it'd require mods if you delete the dizzy cap.

No worries. When you say "never got it working" with that kit, what'd you have drama's with? Nothing toasted on assembly? I've got a mate that I'm gonna build one for a twin 1GGZE charger 308.

Hey - Stuff mucking around with vaccum advance if you've got a nice motor, 1920's ignition technology in 2010 on a built motor? I'd stick with the locked dizzy and build a Jaycar high energy igntion system PM me if your not confident in building the system, I'm more than willing to help out for a few beers :y:

FAQ- Setting up a fuel system

Ah yep, I get what you mean Sam. There isn't many "Backyarder 20V" style turbo 4AGTE's getting around that need the rods so the motor doesn't self destruct. But I'm of the opinion those spool rods are cheap as chips for the build quality, like half the price you'd spend on pistons, so it's a nice saftey net for the money. I remember someone on toymods having the metal analysed and finding the Moly to exceed the specs that Spool say they are and the machine work to be extrememly accurate compared to a factory rod.