beerhead

The factory 20V extractors are nice tubular 4-2-1 pipes, some of the best factory pipes I've seen around. Probably not worth going for aftermarket ones, so long as you can source the secondary 2-1 section of them. You could cut off the 20V flange and have them welded onto 100kw fwd aftermarket pipes, or weld and modify the two outer stud holes so they bolt up to the head. For the cat back you'll just need a nice custom exhaust done somewhere, nothing really off the shelf is available in Australia. Power delivery wise your probably best off leaving the factory intake manifold, they have nice long trumpets and make excellent bottom end torque. If you really want to get the most out of the engine you should go for a decent programmable ecu and get a nice tune done on aussie fuel.

The most powerful stock 20V's I've seen around all have air boxes from what I've seen, all open quads do is make noise and feed your motor different temperature air down each port. Blacktops run like crap on aussie fuel and even worse without the airbox attached, so it's not really worth the effort of the ecu swap to get open quads on there. ECU and tune if you want to do it right, I bet the factory airbox on an aftermarket tune would outperform open quads too.

There's no easy commo 5 stud swap hey, will be custom all the way. You can run MS65 crown 5 stud front hubs on XT corona struts, but they're ford pattern. Apart from that I've heard of people running trailer hubs to run disc over hub brake wise too, they match the corona hubs as well. Spacers are a bit dodgy, widens the track a little bit, add corona LCA's and its getting way past the legal width. 7A blocks can take the GE head, make sure its an AE101 or later 7AFE or the gudgeon pin won't match the piston of the 20V. Its not as simple as just bolting on the head, unless you want to build a cheap and weak turbo setup.

Pic 1 is the old starter motor trigger, just use the one out of your car Pic 2 is for a tacho when doing the timing, you can run off there to the black wire on the car harness where the coil used to be to fire up the factory tacho feed. Have fun!

Lol talk about diggin up a dinosaur :blinks: this thread is prehistoric posts from Nick! If you've ever seen a CA18DET on a stock ECU, you'd know they don't have a rev limit... Geez I wonder why they get bad wrap about spinning rod bearings... You can force feed any motor and make buckets of power. For a true comparison of the motors you should probably look at how much power they make in atmo form, as that really reflects how well the motor can pump air. Taken off Wiki and converted values as needed- All non VVT motors to keep it fair. 4AGE smallport = 100 kW @ 7200 rpm with 149 N·m @ 4800 rpm CA18DE = 98 kW @ 6400 rpm with 159 N·m @ 5200 rpm SR20DE = 104- 108kw @ 6400rpm with 178 N·m @ 4800 rpm In stock atmo form there's really not much in it in peak HP terms, torque yes, but its all about gearing and power to weight to get the most out of the tractive effort that the motor can provide. In an ideal universe with unbreakable engines it can be said that you can make the same power on any of these engines with the same turbo, as long as you can get enough revs to allow the engine to pump enough air to hit the peak efficiency point of turbo to make peak power. So be it an apple or an orange the snail eats the same amount and it craps the same amount of slime if you wait long enough :lolcry:

Noice! Will have to pop round and sort this out sometime soon.

Hey, I haven't boosted a 4AGE myself, but have had a few mates play with them over the years, one of the most respected 1600's you can get that's for sure. ATM I'm rwding a 3SGE to expand my horizons and diminish my sanity :hmm: It's all about the bottom end on these old 4A's. Yeah they're tuff as hell, but if the prior owner was a prick and didn't like oil changes the death rattles will normally put the tuner off pushing it too hard. Most see 140-150rwkw at 10-12psi maybe a bit more on a GT28. Have a bit of a search on the club, should be a few people who've had a tinker on similar setups.

Damn, looks like a wild build man, GT28 is a nice responsive turbo on the 4A's, you'll want something a little bigger if you're chasing silly numbers though. I was kinda shocked that duggy's old bigport 4AGZE with a chinese T3/T4 hybrid .64 A/R was making 8psi before 4000rpm, and close to 300hp atw on 16psi once we got enough spark to it. For the injectors you can use any 1JZ or 2JZ item, they're a direct fit on the 20V rail, JDM are 440cc, I think the USDM ones come in at over 500cc though. Keep the quads though, definitely give better response, but make sure your tuner has worked on similar setups, definitely a little tricky to get it running rice on low throttle. I hope the front suspension works ok, I've often looked at the commodore gear wondering if it'd work ok. It can be a pain if the struts you choose have a different kingpin angle as the scrub radius of the outer edge of the tyre can take a path that can create chronic under steer if not enough of the tyre is making contact with the road. I'm pretty certain you can get adjustable camber bolts so it should tweak out to some degree, but sometimes the steering arm ends up swinging on bad curvature when you tweak the camber. A good suspension shop should be able to work it out if it handles odd. Ah well, hope it works well, as I might go down the same path to get some nice big brakes.

Damn, nice mounts. Great to see this beast seeing some light at the end of the tunnel. You still going all out on the motor straight up? Whats the plan for the engine management?

Wow, I saw your username the other day, and was wondering if it was true! Now that's gotta make use of a 4K power to weight wise. Does it wheelstand?

Yep, the hotspots will be internal, but if there's insufficient coolant flow the the coolant would be hot in those areas, and the external casing of the head would show a variance of heat across the casting. My guess is the jiggle valve on the thermostat would let enough coolant pass to allow the head to circulate enough water to keep things happy. Yager uses this on track proven 200hp 20V's so it must work ok. I guess on a street car it's a good move to replicate the factory warm-up system, but seeing Matt's car has run flawlessly for craploads of Km's I have some faith that it's non issue with a sensible driver.

Ah I get it, at first glance I assumed there was a thermostat hiding under there. All this talk about hot spots makes me want to buy a laser thermometer to check if there's hot spots at startup until the thermostat opens, the only sure way to tell.

These are the models that many of the common RWD engine swaps are sourced from. AE101 come with a 4AGZE supercharged or a 20V Silvertop Quad throttle motor. Because theirs heaps of half cuts at the importers you should be able to source front end parts easily enough. But yeah, they seem like a sweet package, and if your lucky it'll be a superstrut model which drastically reduces torque steer.

Haha, my KE had used and fresh needles from the junky who owned it, along with a spoon beside them...

I'll have a better read later, but for a start I'd think about making a proper Table of contents at the top of the page that gives you hyperlinks to the information down below, I'd even split the page into smaller pieces to make it easier to find information. I do wonder what Yager would think of your "new" top water outlet too... naughty naughty, I suppose these sort of things can't ever be patented but in this industry you should be careful who's toes you step on, I can still remember the Kellam vs SamQ debate on the old driving club about the block off plate :hmm: Wasn't a very dignified debate on either behalf. I'm not too fussed on that brass barb outlet on the top pipe either, looks like it'll be a mission to link it neatly to the pump, similar to the setup like Niz's car. I see that pic also has a thermostat housing on the top and the bottom, slightly confusing, because the advantage of a Yager style top outlet is you can leave the bottom half standard. I've seen the warmup cycle of Littleredspirits car on the Yager kit too, I was slightly concerned without a bypass at the beginning, but just set a cold rev limit, and you will see the gauge do a couple of cycles as the thermostat opens and shuts twice within the first 5 minutes of driving and then she's warm and good to thrash.

Coming along very nicely. Love the sheet metal work - great build quality.

Yo, remember you need the valve spring retainers too, so that there's a recess to hold the shim centralised under the bucket. BTW, just wondering your logic running huge duration cams on a turbo engine? You talked to an experienced engine builder about this yet? If it's a purpose built drag engine with a dry sump, 7000rpm stall converter, antilag, a 12K rpm rev limit and a lifetime measured in hours, I'd say go for it. But if street driven it will be a dog off a thing off the line and loose heaps of boost due to the valve overlap. Many people end up with titanium springs, retainers and buckets to reduce the reciprocating mass in the head and open up a few more ponies by allowing higher rpm. Don't get me wrong, your build sounds very cool, and I like people who push the limits. Just remember the only real difference between a rocket engine and a hand grenade is the size of the explosion and the strength of the casing.

BTW, If your keeping the K motor, I'm fairly sure the rear piece of the T18 shaft will not bolt to a KE70 front half. Totally different diameters. You'll need a full tail shaft and have to swap the front yoke off the KE70 to the T18 shaft.

Slowly getting there on my rig, need to do a gearbox cross member and pipes and its wire it and go. Whats the recipe of toyota's you raided to make teddy's crossmember? Was an awesome bit of work. So I guess this is getting a small port head? Any details on the setup? That 5K was spastic, will be cool to see what happens when you apply that work on a 4AGE hey.

Paint looks good man, what brakes and shocks are you running? Are you going carbs on this? I'll build you a jaycar programmable igntion if you like, will help midrange no end over fixed timing, if your not going a crane or something similar. Yet to see a well built motor run on there setup on carbs, but with map sensor and TPS support it seems to have some real tuneabilty.

You can have them reset at the right suspension shop at a different height (please do), or you can go with lowering blocks which puts the diff further away from the springs and gives the diff more leverage on the spring against with twisting force applied when the car is under acceleration. It amplifies axle tramp in most cars.

Woot, let me know when you need me for the wiring mate.

The factory diff will last a while, nasty clutch dumps and its bound to snap, I'm gonna test one with a gen 2 3SGE, seen many 20V's not break them for ages, I reakon its all about mechanical sympathy/ driving style. The borg warner 5sp gearbox from the ST141 is junk compared with the 2S SA63 W55 toyota box. Now if I did this swap I'd have aspirations of a 3SGE or 3SGTE engine in the future, so will the FWD motors be too close on the firewall if you go for perfect fitment with the 2S? Don't be scared of efi, its nearly a 40 year old technology man !!

$350 if it's undercoated, rubbed back, ready for top coat and you supply the paint (a year or 2 back) The funny part is most begginers who rent his spray booths end up spending 6 hours in the booth, and spend more money in rental than what he charges to give you an awesome spray job.

Damn! That's getting close to drive mode, you got that new gasket yet?