beerhead

I'm all for the jaycar programmable ignition, under $100 and fully programmable, can even use the old points to get a signal. It'll also let you run a 12V coil, heaps better than points any day of the week. Jaycar HEI kit There's a handset that can be used with it too, have a search, there's other ones there too that are cheaper. Other option is megajolt, but it needs a custom crank sensor.

See how you go finding those injectors. I wonder if the 3SFE camry ones might be worth a look. It isn't much of a drama swapping plugs either. You can also get short plugs that adapt the connector too.

I must say, this thing actually puts you in your seat now, definitely done the right thing with the exhaust. Who cares if the motor makes 1 less HP at redline, it's make heaps of extra torque across the whole rev range!

They're definitely grey injectors, just go off the top part. The pink ones have a round type denso plug not a bosch one like those.

They were special Tighe grinds with standard lift and big duration, no need for shim under bucket if you don't wanna rev it to hell and back. I had a good conversation with one of the Tighe brothers about buckets and shims one day. Apparently with a low lift long duration cam the ramp rate isn't fast enough to put the point of load far enough on the outer edge of the shim to pop them off. He said all their work is checked on a simulator. Only problem is lift makes power, duration makes powerband, so I doubt that the motor was seeing its full potential, esp with the factory ecu. He just scored the head with the cams for cheap and went with it.

F20C is the only easy route. I've often wondered if with an external oil pump and modified cam timing whether you could make a honda motor run the right way...

I've seen 300 duration cams run fairly well on a stock big port ecu. The drama is the mix is too rich at low revs and the spark blows out, with a narrower spark plug gap you can actually make the motor idle :) Fuel pump doesn't mean much, it's the regulator on the end of the fuel rail that should dictate the pressure, you may get a tiny bit of extra fuel pressure with a bigger pump, but it's fairly negligible. Remember you have to trick the speed sensor with the JDM ecu to open up its timing advance and the 8200rpm rev cut. You can use a 555 timer circuit or a dodgy relay wired to a flasher can for indicators, hmm does the factory speedo in an AE82 have a pulse output? Have a look at your injectors too, a simple mod you may not have considered to open up some more top end is some pink 200cc injectors to replace the 180cc greys that most bigports run. If the install is an engine swap, make sure the memory power is wired up, or the ecu with loose all the fuel trim data it learns from the oxygen sensor ( assuming it works) at low rpm and highway cruise. You could use any injector, just has to be low impedence or you need to remove and solder a link across the internal drop down resistor in the ECU to give them enough current to open. 272's in a bigport will spank any stock 20V. If you've got a nice set of cams and a ported head I'd say get an aftermarket ecu and get it tuned by someone who knows what they're doing. When you want some more power get a GZE or 100kw bottom end end give it some love and get a turbo of your choice and boost the thing. I've seen 300hp atw on stock cams, so you can get more with your head for sure. Modded cars cost money, think of an ECU as an investment, you can always shelve it and use it in a new project if need be.

I'd try popping the uni joint out and see if you can interchange the yokes if the bearing diameters are the same. Might be a cheap quick fix if you're lucky.

Even has the slant like a K motor! Officer, I swear that motor came from factory :laff: Do you know what they did for a gearbox for the starlet?

That's awesome dude. It's funny how some people get carried away with peak power figures, rather than how well a motor lays down what it has

I hope so! A mechanic I know was talking along those lines.

The transistion issue can be overcome with a cam style activator that you can have machined correctly to slow down slide actuation at different points.

If its bragging rights you want, and you're going fully custom anyhow, don't stuff around with a butterfly, they were used on early engines because they were scavenged from steam engines of the same era when the combustion engine were designed and were a quick solution to a variable flow valve. I really believe that the alternatives haven't been explored on a production cars, so they're all shrouded with fable and myth :laff: Slide throttles FTW, where what truly means what. I've got 3 different designs of them I've thought up over the years, I'm pretty keen to see what they're capable of. All the people I've talked to who've actually run them say there's no comparison. Ivan Tighe's brother has an injected 500hp 350 chev setup on them, and he said at open throttle the way the motor performs is incredible compared to other motors with similar power but different induction. Haha - sorry for the spanner in works!

Yep, that and the new laws in QLD are coming in that say a 4 banger factory car must only have a 4 cyl swap, etc etc i. I'm pretty devastated, was hoping to fit a 4GR 2.5L V6 motor into a KE70 and use my 3SGE elsewhere... would have to be a dedicated track car now.

Gotta love the H1 V8, only semi legal V8 you can bolt in a rolla. Just checked there site and they have a 1.4-1.6L 4 banger version with a CNC block that makes RWD easy now too.

Looks good! The biggest drama is getting the tolerances right. The thermal expansion is different with metals. You need to know the approximate temperature the intake will get to, and make sure that when the metal expands that the tolerances don't make the throttle shaft or butterfly bind.

LOL! Transistors are fun! The old NPN PNP transistor doping boron or phosphorus to use there electron voids to make an electric switch or amplifier. This kinda crap is why I left uni, you should try electron probability theory within a conductor! 5th dimensional calculus is not cool, I hope it's not like the BS tests I took that were 2 pages of work to get a result, 10 questions and were multiple choice answers that you loose marks if you get it wrong... I really hope you haven't spent too much time on this car and want to fornicate with it rather than raping it like every 4ag rolla deserves :bash:

Haha sorry mate :bash: Get an aftermarket ecu if you want to run coils, there's no simple way to do it with a an ecu that's designed around a distributor, you'll also get the bonus of proper real time dyno tuning which will get the most power and economy from your motor. As I said, the drama with the camira delco ecu's is that you can't change ecu options on the fly. That said, there are some people around with eprom emulators that they plug into the ecu and allow real time tuning... I remember reading about it on a gemini forum years ago, which was hacked and all the old content is gone! In the EFI department - The coolant temp senor should be a 2 wire sensor that plugs into a water housing somewhere on the motor, normally a green plug. The temp gauge will be 1 wire, and could be near by, but I honestly have never worked on a 3TGTE... The problem with faulty senors is that they often don't trigger limp mode. They can put the ecu in a range of the tune that isn't relevant to the running parameters of the engine due to an internal short. By unplugging the sensor completely you should trigger a temperature limp mode, which will make the ecu's map pick a default temperature value, normally 20-30 deg. If a motor runs better inducing limp mode by unplugging a faulty sensor, you can normally be assured you've got a problem with it. This theory works on most sensors.

Looking awesome, what kind of pipes you running on this beast 4-2 or 4-1's? Loving the integrated tri brace too :bash: rolla__madd: I'm pretty sure the trick is dry ice and a hammer and chisel, it'll make the tar brittle and it'll snap into bits rather than smearing.

Little black box is for electronic idle control from memory, I've deleted them in the past as the other half that is needed under the bonnet normally gets left in the donors car.

As long as the igniter is external you could quite easily run another coil in parallel with another igniter to double the spark. I doubt this will help your fuel economy, but will give you an even burn. As old mate said, its a rechippable ecu, but not real time programmable. I remember when my mate was into geminis this was a common swap to get efi going, but the silly part is it costs nearly as much as a decent after market ECU to get done. To replicate the trailing spark that RB20 Rolla talks of you'd have to run a proper after market ECU and tweak a rotary trailing spark set-up. Call around a few workshops till you find one with a scan tool that works with DELCO ecu's. If your looking for a stab in the dark I'd try and work out what coolant sensor its running and make sure its within range resistance wise compared to a new one. If unplugging the sensor, making the ecu think its 20 deg C all the time saves fuel, you may be onto a winner. These will almost double your fuel use if the temperature is reading -24 degrees when its 30deg C.

That just looks like sand casting dags that haven't been cleaned up in the factory.

Hmm, just looked at the site and now I'm not 100% sure on those mounts... T3 Mounts I thought they did corolla ones too, but it looks like just starlet ones! ah well. I think the RWD 16V 4a's are holding there money because of how rare they are now. Fairly difficult to find an importer that stocks them so your stuck dealing with private sales.

Get the whole 4AC. The 2A has a shorter stroke, so the combustion volume will be smaller than a 4A to compensate the compression drop when you reduce the volume of air the motor pumps per revolution. This rule of thumb is pretty standard across most motors. Gemini owners do a 1600 head on the 1.8 or 2L G motors to up the compression with a cam. 202 with a 186 head, 2.7 bmw 6 with a 2.3 head, are some other examples. As Sam said, get the whole thing, bolt her in and your away.

Being a KE30, you can get T3 engine mounts to bolt into the bay for the 4AGE, but most people normally go completely custom. It isn't a straight forward swap like an AE71 / KE70, so either motor will be a bit of work. If your not planning to boost the motor there's not much in it power wise between an SR and a 4A, they just make there power in different places. A good smallport on carbs will keep up with an SR20DE, maybe even beat it on the right sort of track, but it'll never be as easy to drift or as quick up the hills. So it depends if your willing to desecrate a Toyota with a datto engine :jamie: