beerhead

Cutting grinding and welding your firewall is completely illegal. To the letter of the law it is technically illegal to even drill a hole to mount a hydraulic clutch in a KE70!! You crash and hurt / kill someone with a car with those kind of modifications and they work it out your 3rd party insurance company will payout the damages and then send you a bill for the value as you have no cover.

Pure gold

TRD ke70's Rally car ran this setup, I'm sure he'll post up more useful information when he spots this threads warm again. Pretty sure you need to shave 2mm off the block though, I did all the maths years ago, can't remember anymore. Get the ACL piston and bearing catalog and you'll be able to work out some of the key differences, not sure on the 4K rod length though.

Man, 8 throttles on this this is gonna be mad. You gonna go a link ecu? Seems to be highly regarded in in NZ, haven't seen many in Australia though. Are the V motors a pushrod setup? How crazy are you gonna go on the cam selection?

Sounds like you needed the model designed for a lifted sierra. If you're on the bump stops the stroke is far too short, suspension travel is a must for grip. Short stroke sierra shocks shouldn't be used on any corolla if you want it to handle. Bump stops are there for a reason. 2" drop - you want commodore wagon shock absorbers, they are perfect for a corolla.

Welcome back, we've been keeping the RC server warm for ya while you've been away, hows it going?

lol celica diff he's meaning. Better off with a T series T18 diff, they bolt straight in

Doh - wonder if its the one that's missing a spring!

I designed a circuit using a collection of flip flops that uses injector pulses to trigger the right coil a while back, runs in a simulator perfectly. I've got an adaptronic now, so I won't be using it. Then I also got thinking, the motor would need to get a home signal before it starts to fire the injectors with a sequential setup, assuming it starts firing on the same cylinder every time you start the motor it should be really easy to build. I've done half an electrical engineering degree and I wouldn't be confident making one to sell it to someone else, so make sure you test it for a year or 2 before selling it to people.

I don't think it's a great option though, just cheap and easy. 1ZZ coils normally go for 200-300K km's so running them 4 times as hard I'd expect every 50-75K km's a coil will crap itself, esp considering you'd be starting with a coil with at least 100,000km's on em. I've done 40K km's in a year in the past, so have a spare set of coils in the glove box. I believe nothing on the net till I test it myself, I'm gonna try it as I said, will post a video of the outcome, which I haven't seen anyone do yet. Yeah I figured you were in the know Trev, just shocked they let it get by hey.

Workshops that mod plate cars with a hacked firewalls will end up with some nasty fines if the owner gets picked up by the RTA. After July a new specially trained task force is out who will pick things like that in a flash. Though technically its illegal to drill a hole in the firewall to accept a hydraulic clutch too!

Looks right to me. Just needs a new TDC mark on the balancer and use that as a reference when you do the timing in the future. Taken it for a spin yet? Not getting hot?

Ok, sounds like a gotta test a theory I read about on my 20V, i bet there'd be more in RWD if it works. Apparently you can run a 20V ecu with 4 coils without having to split the signal into to 2 or 4 pulses. It seems because the motor is fully sequential the fuel only gets injected into the cylinder 1 stroke before it gets fired and you won't get pre-ignition because there's no fuel pooling in the other ports. Going to test the theory with some 1ZZ coils before I wire up my 3SGE. SamQ is working on a front mount dizzy relocation kit too, similar to what i've seen used in japan, could be worth a shot. You can get right angle dizzy converters for G13B conversions into suzuki sierra's too. I once contemplated getting a megajolt programmable ignition and fitting a hall effect to the front of the motor still retaining the old CAS base to run the ECU on my 3SGE. You do the MSD igniter mod that's a resistor and NPN transistor trick to trick the ecu to not go into limp mode when the factory igniter is deleted.

Go the mighty 4K!! Most motors don't spin at 450,000km's let alone take the abuse of a 1/4 mile pass. No, they can't be running out, track marks need a set of hectic rims help me mungi mod kenobi!

Looking awesome dude, gonna be a serious bit of gear when you're done. You going caltracs for the back end? I have a new found respect for leafs and drag racing with what OKE20 has achieved, didn't think 8 second passes were possible on a leaf rear end :blinks:

20V's get a bad wrap by most QLDers because 99% around here were tuned by Kaizen garage, who's proprietor has no idea how to tune motors IMO. I crap you not, my old 4K with a monster cam and a nikki carb was comparable to Littleredspirits 20V until he found a tuner with some skills, and that's the kind of tune most 20V's around brissy are getting around with!! He thought I was joking when I first said it to him :blinks: Now it really has some pick up. In stock form a good 20V tuned properly will leave any stock 16V for dead, higher compression, longer duration cams, VVT, ITB's, lighter flywheel and internals. Just look at the list, how on earth unless the motor is tuned incorrectly can a single throttle body motor with shorter duration cams, heavier internals and 2KG of extra flywheel mass outperform a 20V unless the 20V was poorly tuned? Done right, most ST 20V owners see up to 95kw atw, which is only just shy of the crank rated power of a smallport. If you cam up a 16V, it will obviously beat a stock 20V, but it'll cost you another $1000 to get the cams and have them setup if you can't do it yourself, on a stock ecu you'll have limited returns as well. Then to do it properly you really should buy a 20V oil pump because they have a metal rotor and don't explode at 8000rpm, then buy 20V quads, ITB adapter and an aftermarket ecu - more $$$, then you say rebuild the thing too another $1000 if your just freshening the motor up. Japanese tuners make 99% of the power of a 16V with a 20V head with the same duration cams. I really think its a non event saying 16 > 20V unless you're building a Formula Atlantic spec 240HP motor. How many 20V's powered cars have you guys been in to compare? I own 1 atm and have been in 4 others.

20V will cost twice the money because you have to go aftermarket ecu. Dizzy is out the back of the head and you need to go to coils. 16V is a much cheaper way to go.

Dizzys are completely interchangeable between all the 16V 4AG's. I just look under the cap to work out what each pickup is doing, you will be able to make the GZE dizzy run a smallport ECU, but not a Bigport one. Not sure about the misfire, but I think the white wire is the pickup ground, so it is possible. I'd just solder it all back together and put heat shrink over the joins.

A mates 1J was making 90HP a cylinder on stock coils so CDI as much as it kicks ass probably won't be needed unless your planning to run a GT35 on your K motor :blinks: If it aint running out of spark it's just an expensive overkill. I'm 99% sure the 7KE will be a 24 - 2 trigger setup. 98 model motor, no way batch fire can pass late 90's emissions. Problem with a crank trigger is you can only run wasted spark and 2 banks of injectors, still needs a cam reset trigger. Ah just thought of it then - You could keep your dizzy and grind off 3 out of the 4 points and fit the crank pickup. Multi tooth wheel and a cam trigger is possible with what you have already! Not sure if you can mix and match trigger systems on your ecu though, adaptronic def can. So you might need to retrofit a hall effect into the dizzy to make it work. Makes the 7KE dizzy sound like a much simpler solution...

:yes: Taz, Maybe need was the wrong word, I should have said want. Maybe you don't mind batch fire, wasting 10% of your fuel, using late 1970's style efi and having timing that jumps around constantly, but I was giving advice that is the most modern approach to how you can get the best economy and power. Sequential injection done correctly will also yield more power, as any decent late model ecu allows you to throw the fuel in exactly as the valve opens, giving you much better atomisation. I loath batch fire, as the fuel just pools in your ports until the valve opens.

Do you want to make the car handle or just look low? Sierra shocks are too short, ford springs are too heavier rate IMO. Cut rears with a commodore wagon shock is perfectly captive and good for the rear on the cheap. Most people go to an AE86 or XT130 corona strut if they want better shock absorber choice for the front end. Have a good search, this comes up all the time.

Need a rule that all offers must be strictly over PM, that way there is no flame up with low ballers in a thread, they get no response or are written off by the seller in a PM.

Sweet as, was just making sure you've thought it all through, you definitely need a 7KE dizzy then, I'd got a 7KE intake too, bigger ports and better design.

I've got a Gen2 3S in my bay. There is no space issues for the engine what so ever, you just need custom - mounts, intake, extractors, sump, water plumbing. Beery's 3S KE70 With a W5* Box there is no firewall or tunnel mods needed. If I had built my own intake I could have sat the motor back another 3" aswell, with no mods to the firewall, using a 5SFE crank trigger setup to delete the dizzy. A 7AGE is just easier because you don't need as much custom gear. It's a KE35 so its still a big job fitting an A motor IMO.

Have a look at the pinned document in the engine conversions mate.