demotorsport

nisrolla u used stadard sr engine mounts and made up the mounts on the k frame to suit? was thinking of modding a ke20 crossmember so lines up with chassis and fab up somethin in middle to bolt to box?may be way off the mark there though.might use sr croosmember and modify it. do the 180 pedals bolt up easy or alot of modifying? and how was it for room with the master sylinder and brake booster? cheers mate

1.so custom mounts off the block to shackle rubbers on custom mounts on k frame? 2. 3. 4.length? so just the hole for shifter is problem? no mods to tunnel? 5. 6.what model rx7?and does it clear engine or intake?ant other options? 7.with remote bosster would there be room for master in engine bay? 8.thought id pop that in cause engine is bare with no manifold or anything but has a gtir sump.havent looked so no idea how different they are or if there better or worse fo conversion.I'm sure ill see funny side wen i have a look. 9. thanks heeps for that champ.got any pics of any of the above?have u done this conversion yourself?

i have googled my head off searched number of forums and i can't find detailed info on whats needed to be done to put a sr20 into a ke20 corolla thought id say this because people will just say search button is your answer but its not ive tried over and over again. if there are deatiled links feel free to post every link possibe so its all in 1 place. also any pics of below questions would be helpfull. if some1 has done this conversion them self id love a phone number to have a chat about it. to start off questions are 1.what mounts or rubbers can be used as a base for custom mounts? 2.what gearbox crossmember can be used as a base to modify and how? 3.pros n cons of modifying firewall because ive seen it done with and without. 4.tunnel mods to be done?(where is the problem height or width or both? 5.with the height of engine and box will it face issues conect to standard diff?yes i know it will blow but doing it this ay atm. 6.what clutch master cylinder to use? 7.what brake booster and master to use? 8.sump modification?(will gtir sump work?) 9.steering mods? thank you.

so your saying wrong or old oil????????? need a oil cooler????????????? turbo was past use by date???????????// ?????????/lol but seriously what are you sugesting

irokin your taking the admistrator buisness a bit to far fair enough if i swear but having a winge about how many question marks is a bit over the top i do it so my questions stand out from all the rest of the stuff i put in post so you have any idea about the topic????????????????????????????? or just logged on to have a winge about nothing if the question marks offend you admistrating is not for you

the way you described it would have to have the turbo feed before the heater box(heater feed hose) and the turbo return after the heater box which is the (heater return hose) so the turbo feed would be hot water straight from the engine any other way wouldnt flow cause if you had plumbed both in heater return they would push against each other and not flow true or not??????????? so you are using hot water out of engine aswell???????????????????? is it ok the way i have done it????????????????????? would it be flowing???????????????????? and by what your saying it sounds impossible to feed turbo cold water and for the oil I'm pretty sure its just a bush type off a s14 my fitting on the turbo feed inlet looks kinda like a restrictor but not sure its like a 4 to 6 mm hole with a cone shaped edge to seal on the fitting of the oil line fitting does this sound correct could my oil line be to big for that type of fitting or something??? i ccould take pictures if you like.............

4agte/garrett water cooled turbo the turbo is a bottom mount so YES oil feed on top oil return is on bottom and for the water lines i thought it was pumping hot water but i find it impossible to feed the turbo cool water from the radiator because... the bottom hose is the only place where the water is cool from radiator and thats the hose that will suck water as its infront of water pump that sucks water from radiator and top radiator hose pushes hot water out to radiator...... is this true?????????????? and how is it possible to feed turbo cool water from radiator???????????????????? is there another way?????????????????????

after blowing the seals out of turbo(rear oil seals) I'm worried its a water cooling problem or oil problem....... it might have been a bad turbo from day 1 but want some advice so i can not worry so much about doing it again ok so my setup is 1.t piece bottom radiator hose/and the water line goes to turbo 2.top water neck off the head that goes to top radiator hose has a outlet on back of it that usualy goes to the rear of head/this now goes to turbo is this correct??????????????????? I'm aware people usualy use heater hoses and outlet on back of head etc but the way i said will it circulate through turbo properly?????????????? would the bottom hose suck water back in from turbo??????????????? and top hose from neck push to turbo???????????? the oil goes from side of block to turbo and returns to sump I'm confident this is correct but anything I'm missing tell me!!!!!! but more worried bout the water lines for now if some1 can answer ALL the above questions it will be appreciated thanks alot guys

I'm more worried about idle I'm guessing the supercharger will be needing more fuel on idle then a turbo I'm not 100% sure how supercharges work but I'm guessing that the turbo would create more vacume??? but I'm not sure at all i only say it as the crank will cause the charger to pump air on idle but i spose a turbo would aswell from the exhaust fumes and pressure never had a supercharged car so can't realy comment thats why I'm asking i assume there wouldnt be much difference under full load more concerned on idle what you guys think??? i spose if people turbo stock gze's and run ok without the charger and a turbo in its place it might just work??? thats why i asked how the cars go after people do this modification cause its not every day people have a tunned charger map and go a turbo setup but more common for people to turbo stock gze's and take the charger off any people that have done it or problems faced or success stories would love to hear them thanks every1

thanks for the reply mate ecu has a built in map sensor good for 30psi just wondering bout the questions i asked above cause I'm guessing a turbo and supercharger would run totaly different when it comes to vacume...time it hits boost....fuel map...timing map... but I'm guessing

just wondering when people convert from 4agze to 4agte 1.does the computer run the engine well (such as fuel & timing)??? 2.whats your experiances??? 3.i have a tunned aftermarket ecu for a 4agze would it start and drive well enough before a full tune on a 4agte??? any1 done this or turboed a 4agze and took chargwer off as I'm intersted how your car went as its a common modification i would love to know how your cars went cause I'm guessing the vacume,time to hit boost,timing and fuel would differ from supercharged to turbo thank you

crank/pump seal is done same as the cams seals so pump stays on so far so good no oil leak there anymore now the new cam seals are pissing out so bad it leaves a puddle of oil under the car(not drivable) can some1 confirm i have correct cam seals with a part number PLEASE????????????????? and any tricks or do's and don't wwhen doing installing the cam seals??????????? cheers

good question i have a 4agte and i want to put a oil cooler in aswell just not sure where to get the in and out lines from so if some1 can tell us where to buy one of those adapters to fit between the oil filter and block as i don't see any other way to do it and I'm sure its the only way to do it??? any1 done this before??? and where to buy from???

pulled appart today took the front crank seal(pump seal) off .......................................... just want to confirm if the seal has same part no. as the 4age smallport??????????????????/ .......................................... and where on this site has 4agze tention specs for engine such as head bolts caps etc etc etc?????????????? ....................................... thanks

does the sump have to come off??? and is there a way around not taking the engine out just to get sump out on a rwd casue of the crossmember??? it looks like the pump housing is bolted to the sump

what cars come with a remote thermostat housing for my 4agte setup in rwd form I'm guessing it goes in bottom hose need different model cars that remote thermostat housing come out on need help asap thanks guys

lol...been ignoring it so far...lol... i was thinking there is a seal behind where the pump bolts up to block but can't say for sure cause havent had it off yet spose when its appart ill do all 3 i got the cam seals with the timming belt kit ill buy the other seals before i start ripping appart spose ill ignore it till after i get the car tunned for now and attack it after that providing its still allive...lol... just don't get how it leaks so much just sitting there without starting the car cause most of oil is in the sump leaks heeps now and haventy started it for over a week and i keep wipping it

there the 3 things i thought it could be cam seal i do see oil on top of the inlet cam side between cam cover and backing plate crank seal(not sure how to check) oil pump seal(not sure how to check) is there anyway to check which 1 it is ?????? but i spose for all three things listed the backing plate belts etc all have to come off and if theres oil on back of the backing plate it would be the cam seal and I'm not sure how i will tell if its the crank seal or the pump seal cause there in same location arent they???

i havent had a good look but to take off upward I'm guessing the front metal plate would have to come off aswell??? and can i leave the cam gears on to do so??? and lastly yes i have changed the oil and filter recently a few times because i havent had dyno tune yet and was worried fuel was mixing with oil cause its running hell rich... would this cause the condensation or litle bit of milky on cap??? it starts off as vapor then when oil spits up it turns milky but it definatley starts as water drops like condensation its turbo and the head and covers get pretty hot

not using water much not blowing white smoke not mixing with oil but oil cap has milky substance when gets hot its almost like conjew from heat but not sure my questions are when i took cam cover off a while back i noticed the head bolts were under the cams in location that i can't get a socket on so do the cams have to come off 1st???hope not... is there a way around this like turning cams to a position where its possible to get to bolts??? and if they come out how is it possible as they would have to slide out front and the engine would have to come out??? lastly is there a site with instructions or a manual that tells me much about this and the tention specs etc...etc... any help appreciated thank you

have you done this before??? was it leaking in the same spot??? will the stock 4age part no be the same to buy from toyota??? and lastly how does it pull out after i pull the stuff out to get to it??? sorry for all the questions but want to get my head around it before i rip it all appart becasue its in a rwd ill have to pull radiator out 1st before i even start to pull belts,pulleys and plate etc off thanks

got a bad oil leak behiind the crank pulley and it sits on the silver part above sump behind pullet but i can't find where it comes from??? any ideas where it is coming from any1??? my guess is crank seal(front) or cam seal dripping down the back of plate behind the pulleys that bolts to block and ends up on bottom any1 had this leak before and what was it i have cleaned area and still can't find where it comes from cause the plastic cover is on top of the location of oil any1 thanks

i wired it up like you said and I'm pretty sure it perfect I'm gettin car off (12.68v) car on (14.00v) does this sound good to you mate thank you very much for all your help mate i appreciate it

the battery is at the back of the car so will be a pain to do but if you recomend it i trust you enough to do it like you say to the post i have power from main lead from battery in boot that feeds the starter motor then back to alternator post via smaller wire+fusible link wire ecu relay power to alt post fuel pumps relay power to alt post i don't realy get how the battery will charge if the power is going 1 way and the alt charge wants to go other way probably stupid question but I'm intrested how it works??? ill probably run the sense wire to the conection where the main power cable meets the starter cable along with where the alt cable all joins up (but i see no difference realy) but is this less dodgy or should i run a wire to the boot??? and ill leave the lamp wire off untill i work out where it comes off the instrumental panel thanks alot for all this mate i realy do appreciate it

the wires are like you said colour wise and the plug is the same as the 1 you posted on another thread the diagram and picture you posted somewhere else is the same as my alternator and the plug i got off another toyota from a wrecker yard and i cut the plug far off so there is a good 50mm to 100mm of wire coming out of plug but i see what your saying i just have to find ignition wire to match the wire off the alternator and loop the white power wire to the main b terminal of the alternator where the main power +12v goes from battery and for now ill leave the lamp wire disconected and do you think then the alternator will charge??? is this all correct just to confirm??? Thank you very much for your help i been checking for your replies all day...lol...