ewenm

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funny isnt it i,m welcome here but the honda s600 sites don't want to know you because your not running the original motor, doesnt matter that i have salvaged a car that the purists gutted for parts. doesnt matter that its nearly impossible to keep one running if you can even find a motor. doesnt matter that at least the car is running and being enjoyed. I'm all for keeping them original, but at the same time i love to see modified/improved cars especially when you take an older car and it looks original, then you pop the hood and its all late model running gear but then i guess i,m biased hehehehe

all the wiring is still exposed till I'm sure its all done, yeah thats pretty much how the fire wall looks, usually there would be two master cylinders there you can see where the clutch cable attached to the pedal arm and the booster is offset towards the motor as there is no room straight off the pedal, so in the cabin under the dash there is a link to take the brake action over towards the centre (does that make sense) and yeah it should go hard, same top speed as a KE70 but heaps quicker getting there hehehe ive wanted one of these since i first saw one as a kid, its taken a long time and I'm not rushing to finish it. ive had a ball finding all the missing parts and getting it all together, and now its just a case of finishing it all my focus now is to get the body work done and painted, so that when done it will inspire me to get back to the millions of little pain in the ass jobs thank for sort the pic for me, much appreciated

ive uploaded a pic of the engine bay to photo bucket, what do i need to do to load it here ?? as you did. and yes they did have a solid mounted diff and then enclosed chain driven swing arms, these were fine for the original 600cc motor low torque and heaps of revving, however when you stick something bigger in them the original drive train can not cope. most do as i have an use a narrowed corolla or Datsun diff, ive used the 4 link corolla set up but with the upper links angled so as not to need the panard rod and the original coil over style shocks, (new koni,s) all done by engineers. i didn't want anything to sophisticated , something easy to work on, and the corolla running gears fits the bil. others have used Mazda rotary s, and 4 cylinders and there is even one in Brisbane with a hyabusa motor cycle engine, have a look on youtube.

i would love to have an original car, however mine had been hacked up by previous owners, not to mention that trying to keep an original motor running is a mission in its self let alone trying to get it rebuilt if it blows. so I'm real happy with mine. its a 4kc standard motor except for the early style cast 4 into 2 exhaust and the twin su carbies, it has the corolla 5 speed and a narrowed corolla rear with cut down commodore axles front breaks are holden gemini discs the rear axles redrilled to suit the 4x100. ive just got the period appropriate alloy wheels with Avon semi slick tyres, ive had to gently bump the guards out to cover them hehehe its a sloooooowww work in progress

hope this works http://s1099.photobucket.com/albums/g390/bigwave2255/

making slow progress, but using synthetic motor oils (mobil 1) seems to have done the job, and allowing it to fully warm up doesnt hurt either now on to sanding and filling on the body ive managed to pick up some old style cheviot allow wheels silver rims with a broad square 4 gold spoke set up, fitted with avon semi slick tyres (you can see where this is going hehe) and tonight i get to fit them, hopefully the guards will need slightly flaring toughen up the tiny little car hehe

i don't think its to lean, if anything it may be a little rich althogh i seem to be able to get a good idle out of it, as for the needle profile, i bought these carbys of ebay so who knows what they were off, i serviced them , new seals and needle seats floats etc and needle bases they had a spring loaded valve in the butterfly that i thought at first was the problem so i fitted plain ones. because it has no exhaust manifold pre heat capabilities its fairly grumpy till warmed up. i think i will try thicker damper oil for a first up, i have been using auto trans fluid, maybe its to thin thanks for the comments EM

hi all, joined up here a while back, but have left this project sitting for a couple of years. back to it now and am wondering if anyone can help with a carby question i have a 80,s vintage Corolla running gear in a honda s600, a 4kc (not sure about the c) from an ,82 ke70 i have the 5 speed gearbox and the diff narrowed to suit on a 4 link i fitted the earlier style "extractor" exhaust manifold with two outlets, as yet the rest of the system is not done and twin 1.5 inch su,s my problem is a massive flat spot off idle, ive got them balanced etc (used to own a cooper S, so i have an idea ) ive decided that when the throttle is blipped the damper in the carbies rises to quickly and so have fitted stiffer damper springs. still the problem persists, although not as bad, has anyone got a simillar carby set up and if so what coding damper springs are you using / recomend thanks for any coments EM

my S600 has a narrowed corolla rear with machined down commodore axles and a 4 link suspension on coil overs and the corolla 5 speed gear box, i have thought of doing a write up but probably when finished Ewen

oh and get ready for some customising. i'm going through this process on a 4k motor i have in a Honda S600 and i'm using 1.5 inch su's first problem was the manifold did not allow the throttle linkage to be pull up type, it wanted the cable to come in underneath, so i bought spacers from an MGB, great now my fuel bowls don't fit in the cut out, but wait i can undo the mounting bolt for the fuel bowls and turn them slightly, bummer now the fuel pickup hose from bowl to jet isnt long enough, so order new jets. bolt it all back and now the air cleaners touch the underside of the bonnet, so sort that out. start it up and wow it runs, but idle speed to high, suspect the spring loaded valves in the butterfly s, so order straight discs and fit them, still idles to high got to talking with a fellow member and decided maybe the shafts are worn, so pulled them off again and on closer inspection the choke adjusting screw was holding one carby open a little to far, great stuff wack then both on again and yipee it idles beautifully, dam spoke to soon, now the needle and seat's are leaking(new), the electric fuel pump is putting out to much pressure, so its of to the parts house to get a fuel pressure regulator maybe then it will be perfect so after all that my point is be prepared for the required fabricating, its not a bolt on job Ewen

following up on a previous enquiry...... where did you get the flared guards from,, web site??? shame you choose to get rid of it, but you did a good job anyway

hi has anyone done this conversion, i have and i can not get the motor to idle down, the butterflys have little spring loaded flaps on them and i wonder if the motor is sucking air thru them?/ what do you think

beauty thanks for that

hi all can anyone help ( yes i have searched) i have a 4kc corolla motor 5 speed and narrowed rear in my project 1965 Honda s600 roadster i mechanically have it all in and a lot of the electrical done, i just have concerns over the alternator its the original Bosch unit from a 1982 ke70, and has two wires. i need to confirm the thick wire goes to the battery and the thin ?? i'm assuming goes to the ign switch via an ign warning light so i assume that when the motor is off and the ign on then the thin wire at the alternator is negative and once the motor is on then the thin wire goes positive, so positive to positive means the warning light goes out is that making sense. if some one was a wiring diag and can scan me a copy that would be much appreciated even just the alternator wiring section would be perfect. Thanks for any help or coments Regards Ewen

thanks that what i needed to know, and yes it is tight for space

hi i have an '82 4kc and 5 speed going into a 1965 Honda S600, i have 1.5 inch SU's on a Lynx Manifold ( yes i got one new yeah) and i have an early corolla exhaust manifold, sort of a extractor with twin outlets i'm thinking of running the twin pipes all the way to the muffler ( at the rear) and then to twin outlets. how do you think this will work, any sugestions on pipe diameter Ewen

hey don't worry about the carbys, worry about getting a manifold, unless of course you have one in which case iwant it hahahah

thanks for that is the gearbox rear mount in the same place and is it just a matter of unbolting the existing extension housing and bolting up the ke55 housing should i ring around wreckers, i,m in Brisbane is there anyone knowen here that handles the older stuff Ewen

Hi i am using a 4kc motor and k50 5 speed in my Honda s600 rebuild, and i need to know about extension housings. the one i have is to long so the gear stick is to far back, i remember reading some were that there were 3 different lengths does this meen that the housing remains the same length and the gear stick position moves forward or is there 3 different overall lengths, and if so does that mean i need to get a shorter one and a shorter output shaft or what help ewen

are they available, should i look at wreckers, has any one got one laying around there back shed, i'm on the southside of Brisbane. and a carton of beer could be made available Regards Ewen

hi does anyone know of an exhaust manifold ( not extractors) for a 4kc motor that has twin outlets, the ke70 i have has a cast iron exhaust manifold that has a single pipe outlet, i would like a twin outlet. the motor and 5 speed gearbox slightly warmed is going into a Honda S600 roadster, also using the corolla rearend but narrowed, i'm using twin 1.5 inch su carbys. i don't want to run extractors unless there is no other option, if i could get a twin outlet cast iron manifold that would hopfully free it up enough. any thoughts?????? regards Ewen