styler

best ones would have to be momo prototipo and nardi classic...

hey Cameron, I have 2 new kyb rx7 series 1 dampers if you need any measurements, they were part of an old front end setup that i have now upgraded from... will have a look for them in the next week

try w55 after t50 if it breaks

hey tally, also you can get new kits for the hinges to rebuild them and tighten them up as they would have worn and sagged after 30 odd years, some guy in the US makes them up for about $30 a side, pm me for details ill see if i can find it...

i believe can't weld suspension parts in the ncop refers to cast items and cutting & shutting of parts, from an engineering viewpoint diy coilovers should be okay but can require height restrictions on sleeves to pass...

2tg 18rg tech notes

and also remember that its 2t pistons with 2t crank, 3t pistons with 3t crank. and if you fly cut 3t pistons, just check that the crown is thick enough to do so and not break through or weaken too much.

need a complete 2tg for all the parts, timing gear, head and dummy cam.

as far as i know there isnt one, and if there was it would be a waste of time, money and effort to do it just for a quick fix anyway... best off doing it permanantly to the bigger better diff. the only thing i can think of in regards to it all is a slightly bigger drum setup but thats not really a significant upgrade of note. else if you must, a custom disc conversion would be new discs, custom brackets, rebuilt calipers, handbrake setup... thats IF you could come up with the right combination to mount and interface correctly that also passes engineering requirements with the forces of braking, geometry of the setup and mounting interfaces.

and most old toyota live axles are through hardened which is much stronger and can be resplined as such where as other car manufacturers may only have used case hardening which is a lot weaker and cannot be resplined unless possibly heat treated, thats why certain types of diffs have a large range of aftermarket billet axles to suit, this is my understanding so far from what i have seen...

the mechanical forces imposed on the diff from a low speed turn are huge, its no wonder the axles break easily... id say you are best off with a lsd in a t series, else f series or g series if you want to keep it toyota... t series diffs both zenki and kouki have a lot of lsd options and some disc conversion options: clutch pack: 1 way, 1.5way, 2 way combo series of two of the above oem and lots of aftermarket types second hand also common rebuild kits avaliable toyota oem, trd, cusco, kaaz, tomei torsen: oem type 1 and aftermarket type 2 what it really becomes is a rear end package of housing, lsd, axles, mounts and brakes at a few grand if you go all new, tough and fully spec'd out. cheap option could be ta22 t series with second hand lsd and new drums, just weld on mounts cut off from donor housing...

ha but you can! :) the clutch pressure plate mounting pattern is the same for the 2t and 3t flywheels, the 2t runs a smaller push plate internally and 3t a bigger push plate... and yes the 3t push plate is damn close to the pressure plate housing! hence why i could run a 200mm 3t clutch with a 3t pressure plate on a 2tg flywheel as long as i resurfaced the flywheel clutch face to the larger diameter :) some old toymods 2t 3t clutch tech

yeah it all swaps over as in clutch pressure plate, clutch disc and bearing but.... just remember to remachine the flywheel to the bigger size clutch face if upgrading or get it machined regardless the same size if downgrading. aftermarket flywheels usually feature an oversized clutch surface from factory.

zenki = 24mm kouki = 25.4mm different diameter, number of splines and spline shape. check club4ag for tech reference... hey TazRx remember you can respline larger axles if you can find some to suit, if your diff width is suitable... I'm pretty sure you can swap axles and centres as a set from zenki to kouki in the t series housing, but check first as i may be wrong...

Also... NCOP - National Code of Practice

51mm sleeves are no good for 48mm struts, they need to be a sliding fit really... you wont find a damper in a hurry for 3 to 3.5 inches lower that would provide any reasonable amount of travel, might have to recut shaft of the only short stroke 38mm damper available. sleeves allow wind up and down so they don't need to be mission critical, just the internal length needs to be suitable for the damper, be on the longer side of things rather than the short and you can use an internal spacer to compensate if out some.

wreckers or someone with a few spare else i remember this mob that did all the clips you could ever imagine in all different sizes as reproduction items, I'm sure they would stock something like that, ill see if i can find out who it was...

no they arent, they are 1 7/8 or 47.6mm commonly rounded off to 48mm internal dimensions below internal threads and below the step is 42.8mm as i measured once but rounded off to 43mm there is a taper in the strut tube where it narrows the diameter to fit into the stub axle at the bottom, and only the common 38mm od dampers will go down it, maybe 40mm od if you could find some at that od. theoretically you could relieve the internal wall and slide a 43mm or 43.5mm od damper down with a very tall spacer underneath to clear the taper into the strut, that is if the damper was short enough in the body length to do this but it would also need to clear under the top section of the strut once the strut was cut down to increase travel on a lowered car if lowered. but the strut walls are thin as it is so its not really advisable to reduce them further. some very short stroke dampers at 43.5mm are 330mm long which are the shortest avaliable as far as i know but you would have to suss out dimensions first... can do if someones interested. i have sussed out some 38mm short stroke dampers for standard ke20 struts, cut and weld the strut shorter, use original oil filled type gland nuts and quick lick on the top of the damper shafts for a bolt in setup. its a proper lowered and short stoke calculated setup using lowered springs and retaining the spring in a captive position when at full extension.

hmmmm.... somewhat the same as ncras (negative camber roll centre adjusters) without the spacer height factor, but I'm guessing the plate possibly lacks a spigot ring to locate the strut and recesses to locate the steering arm... i see where you are coming from with the tight rules for modification though which probably explains it.

hey Cameron you can try rodger on toymods, hes quite knowledgeable on the solex's and parts.

superpro, nolathane, lovells, whiteline...

soft plastics - use new scapel set. hard plastics - use step drill / dremel with 1 inch disc and other attachments / quality holesaws / possibly 4 inch grinder with super thin discs, file set, plastic deburr tool, possibly use an adjustable holecutter... tools not to use on either- angle grinder with std cutting discs, std twist drill bits, cheap and nasty interchangeble holder holesaw sets, stanley knives, jigsaws, powersaws... oh and also pliers, steak knives, screwdrivers and hammers because iv seen people do some strange attempts at cutting stuff over the years... but hey whatever works for you in the finish you are happy with, thats what counts in the end.

you have to be specific though with rear dampers... use part numbers and measurements rather than this wagon and that wagon fits... they can fit the mounts but not be the right: stroke / extended length / compressed length / valving to work properly or to work well - depending on how much your car is lowered... remember its a certain model of damper that usually fits many cars not the other way around, but it seems more common for people to use car models and years as its easier to remember - if they remember it correctly and if it is the same lowered height as the car they fitted it to, but unfortunately some manufacturers have stopped giving out measurements knowing you will use them for a different application than designated. i do have the following specs which are much more useful than car models and years, i just have to find where i have put them kyb: 343006: extended mm compressed mm stroke mm valving std/stiffer 343007 extended mm compressed mm stroke mm valving std/stiffer 343113 extended mm compressed mm stroke mm valving std/stiffer

although similar due to vacumn and effect i might be able to define the terms better somewhat... the venturi effect is a vacumn caused by a constant flow going through a small diameter pipe that progresses to a large diameter pipe, eg fuel out the jet in carby the scavenging effect is a vacumn caused by the previous high velocity charge in a single pipe, eg extractors in an exhaust system but you guys are right about the whole idea of it all :dance:

$500 - $5000, depends on car condition, work needed and finish...