styler

Yeah, from what I remember there is an early and late 4wd corolla wagon the early one being the Toyota Tercel AL25 and the later one being the Toyota Corolla 4wd Wagon AE95 The Toyota Tercel AL25 I am unsure of what diff it uses, not T series though. The Toyota Corolla 4wd Wagon AE95 has the kouki T series diff, ie large axle T series in the rear but one difference is that it has tiny 4x100mm pcd axles which are unable to be drilled to 4x110mm pcd or 4x114.3mm pcd as the flange is too small in diameter for the larger pcd drillings and the suspension mounting points may be different as well. Easy to spot at the wreckers on the tailgate as one is marked Tercel and the other Corolla 4WD wagon. Firewall is your best bet to confirm if T series and ratios. Hope that helps.

I'm not sure who is more stupid, him for saying it or you for listening, But then I think, it's the Internet... Proudly connecting retards around the world. In fact serious or not it's actually what people still do these days, because they don't want to learn, don't want to spend any money, are impatient and ignorant if not plain stupid to say the least... It's going to be uncontrollable and unpredictable on the streets in the wet, as a unregistered budget drift car on a wet track to learn yeah why not, just get caged up and a harness and bounce off barriers but don't bring that to a public road where you bounce off other motorists on the freeway in the rain. Thanks and Good luck.

Remove engine and transmission together, remove crossmember, re-attach crossmember... Or Remove car off cross member If the steering is attached to the crossmember, then yes. Is there some reason behind this?

Haha LittleRedSpirit I feel your pain there! The 2 person traditional method with one person nipple crack/tighten and the other person doing pedal push/release works when 2 people know what they are doing and do it perfectly every motion, as well as having the end submerged in the bottle at all times, else they have to restart it all over again. Honestly the best and suprisingly easiest way I have found is to use a one man brake bleeder kit with 2 people... The good one with line, plastic tab lock and black one way end, it's a lot better than the bottle style one. Check you are using the correct DOT brake fluid for your system Start at the corner furtherest from the master first and work your way in closer, ie Rear left, Rear right, Front left, Front right. Put ring end on nipple, Then one man bleeder kit onto nipple with plastic lock tab, Black end into bottle, doesn't have to be submerged as it has a one way valve, Get moderate pressure on pedal, Crack nipple slowly until fluid flows at a reasonable rate and hold the spanner in that position, Pump pedal slowly and drain the master cylinder of old fluid but do not run dry Top up master with fresh fluid regulary so it doesnt run dry (Guy in car to check) Pump fresh fluid through until solid fresh fluid appears with no air sections Make sure master does not run dry, Top up if close Nip up bleed nipple, Remove kit, Repeat for all brake corners. Honestly bleeding brakes is simple so if unsure, I recommend getting it done at a workshop

Well it has to be in the same car really for a fair comparision, I agree the most important factor is the curve theory which is area under the curve and the curve shape ie powerband as it will differ in delivery especially if the two make the same peak power which results in a different driving experience for drag/track/rally etc... Also consider the torque curves are probably different as well but for arguments sake you could say they were the same but I would put my money on the turbo at a guess not sure entirely... I think the more worked an NA motor is the more it approaches turbo characteristics with being unresponsive until the powerband kicks in hard and the more responsive a turbo setup the more it approches NA characteristics of being responsive and early smooth powerband through the range so it actually depends on how much you have worked each motor to get the same peak HP reading as to the engines power delivery characteristics Getting serious power out of NA can be a dog and its starts to get undriveable wheresas turbo can be a compromise and quite sedate off boost and then serious on boost, and turbo is much easier and cheaper and more common to do with popular DIY bolt ons.

those circlips aren't factory though... factory is a spring plate clip which is probably compatible with the new style fitting, it's a large u plate with bent legs and a lip on the body to pull and push with some grips/pliers. not sure if you have been through this already though, just in case you haven't... maybe find some wider factory clips or widen std ones? yeah I'm not a fan of slotting the mount after a few push pulls its going to snap buts it seems really common vs undoing the lines everytime, wonder if theres a better way...

even studs is between opposites ie 4 and 6 stud but uneven takes a bit of formula ie 5 stud

Internals ftw...

besides methods to do it, consider adjustable vs permanent - for camber wear and being adjustable for different settings to suit the camber comes from top, bottom or middle... top - not a lot of room to move inwards with camber tops, needs smaller diameter coilover conversion as well to make use of movement. middle - bending strut, permanent, around 1 deg at most though, top of wheel moves closer to strut, not ideal method for strength. bottom - increases track, 30mm total allowed - includes changes in offset wheels as well, needs longer tie rod ends or sleeves, longer lca conversion (cut and shut not allowed), ncrca's or offroad you could cut and shut lca, rosejoint lca or redrill crossmember front end setups can cost as much as engine setups when you consider the suspension, brakes and steering it does add up if you want to do it properly, else its always going to be a compromise which is common...

looked a fair bit into this a while ago, found... the old galant ones literally bolt up and provide twin circuit in GC, GD models in 17.46, 19.05, 20.64mm its possible the 19.05 circuit may need modifying from drum/drum to disc/drum setup regarding the residual brake valve in the front which is for drum only and can be removed to convert it to a disc circuit but check with a brake shop first to make sure this is appropriate. check this out: ATAP catalogue find the bookmarks up top to navigate

double post

the ke55 backing plate provides the transition piece for the conversion as the ke55/70 girlock calipers to mount to the backing plate and the backing plate mounts to the ke20 stub axle flange to hold the calipers in the correct position for ke55/70 rotors which can be mounted to either type of hub in the conversion - either a 110x4mm ke20 hub or 114.3x4mm ke55 hub, not sure on ke70 hub. the hubs are the same in form and dimensions and rotor mounting, the pcd and inner bearing ID are different, but since both bearings actually are fitted to the hubs by the same OD however, the inner bearing can be changed to a ke20 one, as the ke20 smaller stub axle requires a smaller ID bearing to fit and run on it properly. that mounts the components to the correct position and bolting pattern to be held in the same position as factory. the bolting size ie, fastening system is where it is a problem the fastening is M8 on the stub axle flange and M10 on the backing plate, its possible to drill and tap the M8 stub axle flange to a bigger M10 stub axle flange size and bolt the bracket up using M10 fasteners, however the stub axle flange is quite thin and small in the casting, approx 8mm and so if you drill and tap it you will not get the minimium thread engagement of even basic mild steel which is specified as 1 times the diameter of the fastener and the surround of the threaded hole is reduced, the stub axle is actually cast so its probably weaker than mild steel grades as well, this wont pass engineering standards if you use M8 fasteners on the upgrade they have the correct minimum engagement and you don't have to drill and tap the stub axle flange but they are undersized fasteners as the bigger brakes which come with M10 fasteners from factory, also you would have to reduce the hole size in the ke55 backing plates from M10 to M8 by welding and redrilling or its possible to use an adapter bush but it would be too thin and weak being 8mm x 10mm x 4mm (ID x OD X THICKNESS) or a machined, heat treated and tested hi tensile shouldered fastener with a step below the head as an integrated adapter but none of these methods will pass engineering standards in my opinion the stub axle flange of the ke20 is just too small and thin to host big brakes, even though the backing plate actually locates on the the stub axle spigot for a significant increase in strength, M8 is too small a fastener for the bigger brake loading, M10 does not have sufficient engagement to the stub axle flange, some big brake companies advertise bolt on upgrades for the ke20 with something like 300mm rotors and 4 pot discs but the increased loading on the small bearings and stub axle flange leverage from 300mm discs wouldn't probably wouldn't pass engineering standards its possible to convert to a bigger stub axle by using bigger stuts which the come with their own world of issues on mounting and various geometry problems, these are only my observations of the conversion having actually done the conversion myself but not used it, it's possible that some people run a version of this setup i really don't know, NCOP (national code of practice) has a section on brake upgrades

the dust covers do run close to the disc from factory as far as i know, a lot of people remove the dust covers anyway by untacking the spot welds using hole punch/dremel/spot weld remover...

yeah you need to use a ke20 inner bearing far as i remember as it has the smaller ID but same OD as later Ke55/70... i think its in the faq if you want to double check - yeah confirmed

yeah i would almost say 205/50/15 on a 8 inch rim is the limit if it keeps on there with the normal pressure or a bit higher, it would be good for looks no doubt and easy driving, if you want more performance a 7 inch rim might be the go, lots and lots and lots of 15x7 with dish, very popular with ae86 and its 114.3x4 as well

big stretch

on the rears you are aware that the car does roll from side to side as you drive or are you just driving it in a straight line and steering via throttle with the wind blowing you in the right direction every time? on the fronts you will need a set of new wheel bearings every time you fill up with petrol because the loading on the stub axle is way too far off and will prematurely overload the bearings if the rim is too far offset... thats if you can steer the bloody thing, with that amount of scrub radius ie kingpin offset the steering would be so heavy you would need old mate schwarzenegger in the passenger seat as power assist every corner... not saying you can't do it, just that it wont work very well with 10 inch wide rims and stretched or not tyres... basically in your setup 10 inch + stretched tyres = crap or 10 inch + proper tyres = crap on another note this might help you out at a guess with tyres: (all really depends tyre profile especially sidewall height) proper fit = - 2 inch of rim width maybe okay = - 1 inch not sure = 0 inch small stretch = + 1 inch med stretch = + 2 inch stupid stretch = + 4 inch formula: tyre in mm divide by 25.4 = tyre in inches, then compare to rim width. maybe some 8 inch (203mm) rims with 205 tyres would be okay if standard pressure kept them on the bead? a lot has to do with tyre size/width/profile as to whether you can do it or not..

tyre stretch and grip are not related in any way, in fact almost opposites... 8 inch wide rim + bead walls at 1/2 inch a side actually ends up being about 230mm total. you generally have to overinflate stretched tyres so they don't pop off the bead which not only makes the tyres too hard but also rounds the tyre footprint for less contact area = less grip. cars weight determines the contact area of the footprint at a set pressure, the size and width of the tyre determines the shape of the footprint at that weight and pressure. tyre stretch is for looks and less grip ie drift rears, contact area and shape is for performance

drifting ain't racing, you drifting or racing?

seconded

unfortunately generally it's all out or nothing for anything reasonable on front end, i have built up both a budget setup and an all out setup, budget won't cut much more than mild street, full out can be raced and anything in between is a compromise of performance, geometry and reliability... remember the front end can be comparable to the motor in a build - suspension, brakes, geometry, steering are major factors in performance, and all the parts do add up to a small fortune!

yeah its all up in the air really with the combination of tyre rolling diameter, width and offset and then strut perch clearance, internal chassis clearance and external guard clearance... but i think the magic figures for maximum space you can work in for a stock ke25 with the same wheels all around and that needs to corner is 195/15/50 tyre with an offset of +13p from the centre of the tyre to retain factory clearances for body roll, steering and strut perch internally and still just clear factory guards externally with rears lipped and fronts lipped. its all about tyres and offset and whether you run a set of matched rims or mismatched rims front and rear... rim width doesnt matter as its always under tyre width and rim diameter doesnt matter as its always under tyre rolling diameter (disregarding large tyre stretch methods over small rims). i have seen so many wheels that rub and scrub with stupid tyre stretch its actually normal these days... i hardly ever see a set of aftermarket wheels that are the correct fit besides stock! thats because its all about looks and hardly about function unfortunately! remember also very important is the difference with independent suspension and live axle with relation to movement for guard clearance, check the motion to figure out clearance.

i ended up using a low pressure high volume quality rotary lift pump without regulator being the fact that some regulators actually were really bad and so would affect the delivery, depending on the design of how they restricted the flow of pressure and volume... i needed a low pressure high volume for the application - twin dcoe45's the rotary part meant consistant fuel delivery on pressure and volume and a stop in direct feed wouldnt lock it up, also no return is needed which can sometimes also cause fuel delivery problems, the lift pump part so its self priming when installed or worked on and in case of air entry wont stop delivery or burn out, and quality so it would last and i wouldnt be stuck in the middle of nowhere when if it broke. remember fuel pressure at source does not equal fuel pressure at carbies, theres a drop through the line, something to think about when checking out pump specs.

+1 on the starter motor

recore std radiator with 3 core