styler

Dude just learn how to change a head gasket and do that for a start, might sort it out.

I have a feeling TTE - Team Toyota Europe converted their later TE27 entry to 4 link using ta22 suspension, might have to check that out but should apply to ke20 none the less.

Get a car manual for your car, around $30 new if available. Overheat may be coolant, thermostat or clogged radiator... All simple service and repairs are in the manual step by step.

Try use an impact gun if you can, just remember to use impact sockets not regular ones. Else if its a tight space cut off ring spanner and use hammer and drift ie long bit of pipe or wood stud on the cut end of the bolt to drive it, just make sure you are undoing it not tightnening it up else the head will snap. A lot of people have cut off spanners for exactly this. Also get some good penetrating spray and soak it a few times that stuff works wonders and is well worth it.

The theroy of power to weight is good with a ke corolla and an engine conversion but it's not that simple to just hack, grind and weld it all together. Just do it and see how you go really... But the first problems you are going to hit literally is the gearbox and gearstick in the tunnel, the sump on the crossmember and swaybar and possibly the rocker cover on the bonnet. Best advice is see if someone has done it before and how, then at least you will know if its possible and might be able to see the work involved to do it.

Nothing just fits in unfortunately... But I'd say a hot 4k is possible for about 2 grand and have fun in that for a while.

Theres only one short stroke damper that I have found for the smaller strut housings - rx7 series 1. Also heard of mkI golf rabbit? also being suitable. But they are both small and you are really best off upgrading to the bigger strut housing ae86 with bigger brakes and use te27 steering arms (a common conversion over there) Good coil over kit is HSD diy weld on, with HSD diy coilover plates that you shape and drill to suit your strut towers. They work together as a combo and have spherical bearings and a spacer on top of the hat to stop binding during operation. Just use high quality bearings as they will have a much higher thrust load, spherical bearings are much better in radial loads than thrust loads and using high quality ones won't wear out too quickly vs cheap ones.

Ask these guys or have a look around on the club-k forums... http://www.club-k.co.nz/Forums/

I believe they are... unsure on kp60/ke70.

Ah good, cheers Tally

Just trying to find out if the holes are in the centre of the manual ke2x gearbox crossmember or if they are offset to one side and by how much... In the auto one they seem to be central.

Upsprung weight I reckon

Yeah I thought 2pc was just for vibration, also reduces unsprung weight I guess... but 1 pc for strength and cost seems be the way to go, have seen 1 pc aluminum and carbon fibre tailshafts as well to reduce weight but pricey

Theres early and late t engine series gearboxes though, both have t series bellhousing but the early one has a shorter extension housing on the back and the later one has a longer extension housing so shifter positions are different. Then after that came the later t50 series gearboxes with 22 spline rear and bigger input shaft bearing.

Not quite, in fact it's measured at 100 deg c and there a table of kinematic viscosity of straight weight oils. (kinematic viscosity being a fancy word for thickness) Multigrade oils have viscosity improvers which are long polymers which are curled up when cold and unwind when they get cold effectively thickening the thinned oil at a higher temp back to normal viscosity. These shear during oil life and thin the oil back to its lighter multigrade weight so remember to change your oil or you will be running thinned out oil when hot. Older motors really need zinc and phosphorus additives which are now low in current standards of oil, they are wear additives and are great but they affect the new three way cat convertors so were lowered to small amounts. Buy oil with lots of zinc / phosphorus if you can often marketed as older car motor oil. Use a good oil filter, lots of them out there are absolute rubbish and don't include an antidrainback valve or a pressure bypass valve, you are best off cutting them open and having a look to see features and construction. And my recommendation for us corolla enthusiasts... the best by far is brad penn oil and a good filter (hint ebay and youtube) Just for interest oils aint oils, theres anything from group 1 mineral, group 2 mineral, group 3 mineral, group 3 hydrocracked, group 4 pao synthetic and group 5 synthetic esters for a start!

Diy coilovers are always a stuff around, most people end up making pretty shit ones with whatever they have at the time... The new ones with base adjustable height are better as they keep the travel the same but are expensive as its off the shelf, the old style diy ones need the stuffing around to make it all work its a pain especially gland nuts! Double check this but last I remember something about kyb - that the base of the damper was 10mm and could be ground down, have a look at the base and check it might be possible :) Also note the base shape of the strut at the bottom, sometimes it tapers down to a smaller ID and dampers can also be the same, so mix and match to suit with spacers etc...

Check if theres other caliper types fitted to your car from factory, they may be more compact, get a set and swap them over or upgrade to later model calipers.

The secret is more power to weight, ditch the 4k for weight and cut a hole in the floor for more power! But yeah ke70 crossmember is the solution.

Try car ramps at front axle stands at rear, more stable.

Upgrade fronts first as rears only do a small percent of braking.

Theres only one diff that somewhat bolts in but it has its own issues, its the 8 bolt d series out the ta22, and I think a t series 10 bolt centre can be fitted. The leaf spring pads are 20mm out or so and so can be forced on but wear out bushes rapidly or do it right and relocate spring pads inwards which is a bit of work. http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/tech-conversions/65900-ta22-gearbox-diff-problem.html http://www.toycrazy.net/index1.html You pretty much have to shorten a diff, try r31, t series, f series converted to disc or the other less common alternatives last I remember were are g series, alfa 105, volvo dana, 9 inch ford, ford escort mkI/II, mazda rx3/4/5/7 etc You can't legally have a diff under factory length, I know it would be ideal to have 1300mm for wheels but you can't get it engineered, gotta be 1320mm or more as shortening the diff causes the track to decrease which affects stability, I know it can be altered with wheel offset but the factory wheels still have to work if ever used, hence the reason its not allowed.

What motor is it for?

Can be anything from hubs, to hubs and discs, to full struts really.

Yeah twin carbs would be sweet but wouldn't vvt would be way more difficult on carbs with a/f ratios etc?

Heard toyota stuff is the way to go...