styler

Dampers... yeah theres a bit of tech on them but now for boots - rx7 s1 or s2 boot are the same except price, off ebay.

I doubt you could get it together for $1300 and successfully drift it, I suggest buy a ke70 and go from there as that could turn into a great drift car over time as you build it up.

The foam breaks down as well, in a year or two and costs a pretty penny. "Replace when foam clogs fuel filter" - Hmmmmm... There are advantages and disadvantages of pickups baffles, surge tanks and foam when it comes to fuel supply, all are expensive in the end though.

Well double valve springs can give you added rate ie lbs/inch most importantly for more aggressive cam profiles, also they are said to reduce or cancel out spring harmonics by having 2 springs of different harmonics together. Its not just the fit of the spring, the installed height and rate through the lift of the cam is equally important as is a retainer to stop spring walk of the inner at least and the outer if possible. Check out beehive springs, meant to be the latest spring innovation but requires smaller retainers.

It might be ok but its old and rebending old bends is not wise so I'd go with new stuff, also the flares are the hardest part and it takes an expensive version of the tool to do it right in either single or double flares, shops usually have a good machine and produce top notch flares and if they don't ask for it to be done again.

Dry sumps are about $4000 for a basic setup and then you have to get it to actually work which is another story, some motors have front/mid/rear sumps from factory and oil the pumps to suit the sump, might be worth looking into that?

Check out some burnout cars on here, might be easier to work out the amount of work needed.

Sounds good but just note ke10,20,30/55 and 70 have different strut flange bolt sizing and patterns.

Rotas and Konig rewinds are the most poorly made bannana spoke rims ever made, Try watanabes, superlites, minilites or panasports etc for something better... In Qld theres +25mm in track allowed so -12.5mm per side in offset from factory from most offset factory rim avalaible to that car. Huge width rims with stretched tyres that are over inflated would have to be the worst modification to a car, they do nothing well actually they don't fit the car and handle like shit so they do actually something (if that counts). The whole craze should be called how to make something work that won't work because it's retarded. Flame on, I'm gone. I'm so sweet like a nice bon bon

Indeed.

All you need is the same thread and sealing face for it to cross reference, and well clearance of course. Bigger is better, those small oem style filters are a joke at best, eg one genuine toyota one I opened up inside looked exactly like a bit of oversize churro with no bypass valve and poor anti drainback valve... nice.

Theres a list of ae86 rear shock options that would suit, try search toymods and ae86dc for it. Shock lengths depend on ride height so just get something that will work in that regard.

Lets just say it's an eye opener when you cut a few filters open... Fram being one of them.

Theres also the mechanical aspect to it as it will cause massive loads under daily driving on the axles under tight turns and small axles will snap easily.

Did consider this method just remember those shafts are hardened so you might have to cut the thread with a bit on a lathe rather than use a die and the top section is usually profiled ie has a double d step which locates on the upper hat to stop it turning when tightened up or removing the nut. If you have aftermarket hats then you could keep it round and use a rattlegun but I rememeber there was some problem with adjustable dampers and using a rattle gun so keep that in mind.

Try caramel wheel if you have any more glue, made for the job :)

15x7 +21 is almost spot on for front and rear to fill completely under stock guards. Add an extra inch on rim width for bead lip and multiply by 25.4 to convert to mm rim width and you can compare to tyre width and go from there, also sidewall height is a factor.

Watts link Type 1 or 2 are used as locating members for a diff and they don't move the diff sideways when the suspension is in motion like a typical panhard rod setup does, nor needs adjustment in length when lowering. Watts link type 2 can be used to adjust roll centre which is usually fixed on a live axle setup. Some factory cars came with watts link eg later falcon is Type 1 and this can be fabricated to your car but be aware there are 2 types of watts link relating to the design and operation. Type 1 - The centre is be fixed to the diff and end of the rods to mounts on the car. This is the fixed style and has no roll centre adjustment. Type 2 - The centre is fixed to a mount on the car and the ends of the rods to the diff. This is the roll centre adjustable version.

Nice

Heres how to work out your spring rates I mentioned this a while ago: Unsprung corner weight in kg / Spring rate in kg/mm = Droop in mm Droop in mm / 25.4 = Droop in inch Square root of Droop in inch = A 188 / A = B B / 60 = C C= Hz Frequency per second of spring 1.0 - 1.5 Hz = Passenger car 1.5 - 2.0 Hz = Sports car 2.0 - 2.5 Hz = Race car no downforce 2.5 - 3.0 Hz = Race car downforce *Keep in mind that unsprung weight obviously is not including the suspension part of the cars weight *Suspension angles eg of strut compound spring loading (eg 5%) *Motion ratios ie leverage of the spring from where it is placed from the wheel compound spring loading (eg 5%) *Generally quality dampers can handle a fair increase in spring rates but if much higher may have to get revalved to suit. *Street and track are way different surfaces may have to compromise a rate to suit both *You can preload a spring against the damper shaft as well (Havent quite got to this yet) *Sway bars are a 3rd spring but obviously only operate when cornering (That's as far as I got on it)

One new development is base adjustable coil overs off the shelf which solves the biggest inherent coilover problem - height adjustment, travel and spring captivity - the 3 impossibles. Building coil overs is piss easy to do but an absolute bitch to get right. Most diy coil overs are made incorrectly and don't work properly. Eventually you will get there, I went through at least 2 sets of struts, 3 sets of inserts, 4 sets of springs and wore out a measuring tape but eventually got it in the end to suit my application about a year later. Theres about 20 aspects to it and that's why people winge and bitch about them not working all the time because they didn't get it right and I don't blame them! Measure 10 times, order once...

I'm going to recommend a ke70/ae71, as you can take that as far as you like, from a reliable daily to all out race car if you wanted. Parts are cheap and readily avaliable, also they are popular and have had many conversions, everything from motor/suspension/gearbox/brakes/diff etc has been done.

Yeah must do base timing with vac advance off.

Old efi dizzy's still have mech advance as well last I looked, it's just an electronic signal pickup and possibly adjustable dwell as well. Check the shaft isn't locked or seized by rotating top of shaft, it should twist a small amount and then lock up, let go and it should spring back Ballast must be used with ballast type of coil (so don't remove) No ballast must be used with non ballast coil (so remove previous ballast) Don't mix these up! Must set base timing without vac attached.

Good work, glad to see it's all coming together!