styler

Fark yeah! Are the sleeves zinc coated from factory yet? People have been using wd40, duct tape and atf fluid to stop rusting...

Sacrilege!

Its the trueno tail lights that will kill you though, last set was around $1200 on ebay!

You can convert to levin though :)

You will need a t series crossmember out of a t engined 20 series rolla, straight bolt in affair. They are more avaliable in japan than the states I found as I have tried both markets. Mounts are from an early t engined car, later t series mounts are different but you can check on a catalogue kelpro etc

^^^Thats one friggin big snail haha Yeah I mean I support the idea entirely, its a great motor because of the aftermarket support but if you are chasing hp on the higher side of things but you will have to upgrade the drivetrain. W55 is what you want with an early g series bellhousing to mate it to the t series block and then something like a r31 diff, custom tailshaft and bigger brakes on the front etc. Also ke25's are limited to around 1.8L forced induction and so its a ca18det or a 3tc turbo! :P

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3tc's just need a lot more love *cough* money to get them to output more power and I would say the valvetrain has a lot to do with it but at least the parts are avaliable and fairly cheap overall from brdracing etc... Theres other aspects to it all like reliability and drivability, also sometimes more power has its drawbacks if you have to upgrade the whole driveline to match and it gets expensive and heavy at the far scale of things. 3tc turbo would be cool but you would have to include things like aftermarket management, turbo, cooler, stronger gearbox, bigger diff and probably bigger brakes etc its not easy to do that stuff but if you have experience it most certainly helps!

It is a great motor to put in a ke25 but the reason theres not many done is probably because of the 2tg as a factory option in that chassis and also having better performance and being more period correct etc..

60 deg is a common acorn ie tapered wheel nut angle that I found while going through catalogues a while back....

Which model corolla?

Yeah keen, been a while!

Its a little bit tricky to explain it all I guess as theres the different systems and then different technologies over the years which can be mixed and matched in retrofit so could be anything in the end Theres some excellent articles on the net about the history of ignition systems eg http://en.wikipedia....Ignition_system

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^Ah correction... Only thing is they seem to have set ignition curves and are not tunable but not a bad idea otherwise either on a wasted spark or channel per coil setup. Damn $600ea plus the rest of the parts hmmmm thats close on ignition only aftermarket ecu which is programmable though...

Aftermarket booster ignition boxes may provide a "better" spark but don't handle distribution to the cylinders. Newer ones can have rev limiters and programmable ignition curves but at a cost. Pickups - depends on output signal of pickup They can only run a single coil Doubt it can run a knock sensor to retard timing

There is hope in early mazda struts which have 110mmx4 pcd hubs and have been put in some early rollas I think the disc mount is behind hub and also 110mmx4 pcd, just have to check that one. You just get one of the big brake upgrade options for the early mazda and away you go after checking rim to caliper clearance. Else redrill some suitable discs at 45 deg to original pattern into blank section but thats part of an entire brake conversion which has many other factors to consider as well.

Those coilovers known as a base height adjustable or type 2 adjustable coilovers and the damper body winds up and down out of the stub at the bottom with a lock ring to secure it. The damper body is also threaded up higher for the spring perch adjustment but the advantage is the setup allows you to lower the car while retaining captive springs and full stroke of the damper if only moderately lowered.

Can do a simple breather as altezzaclub described but pcv is the evolved version of it The wiki saves me explaining it all... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crankcase_ventilation_system Most catch cans are a failure of something that should work but doesn't.... buyer beware.

Think it was black carpet and headlining, with red seats and door trims.

I saw a white ke20 with red interior, was awesome :) It was for sale a while ago so you might find pics of it on here...

Its not too hard to do it yourself but there is a difficulty which lies in forming the carpet correctly before cutting holes. Try using thin nails to mark the centre of holes first and then you can pull them out and remark centres as you go. Another pain is forming the carpet against the floor and tunnel to align it correctly, ie pushing it hard into corners etc. It makes the carpet move quite a bit from its free floating position and changes the position of bolt holes / seat mount holes etc. You might need some help or weights on the carpet to hold it still. Cut from the centre of the mark once you are happy with ALL the locations, each hole cut 4 lines outwards diagonally in small increments and check as you go how each hole is forming around the bolt hole / seat mount and adjust the cut in the right direction to suit. Do this gradually from hole to hole, check the fit and adjust in the direction needed as you go. Cutting at diagonally allows the hole to close back up properly on square shapes, round holes can be straight or diagonal cuts. I wouldn't use glue or underlay personally but some people do. My top tip is not to cut away the excess carpet in the hole, this way you can let it fold back if you need more material and you wont notice a small cut at all, you can trim it off later to size when all the holes are done and you are happy or leave it as is. The biggest factor of all is probably the quality of the mould, make sure its the exact model floorpan mould that you have not a generic loose piece that will never fit well. Plush pile is probably the best to work on, looks and price wise I reckon. Theres knox auto carpets and trufit carpets, I used one of them can't remember but they definately had my exact model car mould which is really important for a good fit. Good luck if you give it a go, else send it to the trimmers! :P

^^^ Yeah that would work, bit easier than swapping struts really! Just have to make sure the mounting flange is square or rectangle and not the one bolt off pattern else you would have to swap struts after all as the mounting plate won't line up with the bolt holes when rotated or swapped side to side if that sounds right...

Yeah prob jap vs aus diffs (borg warner).

You would be mad not to consider the 3tc seeing since it is already there and all... The 3tc motors have potential so I would recommend contacting brd racing, randy specialises in 2tc and 3tc motors and a 160hp motor would be a good option and price for that car being pretty lightweight?