KE30_KE35_KE55

I also bought a $89 painting book off ebay I'm still not enlightened need to find a painter to pick his brain.

The vinyl roof sounds great, the badge to me looks GM the wreath particularly.

I posted in here for help 12 months ago for my first 2 PAC project, I need to do a night school on painting or something , because for my next project I was told by 2 panel beaters to use 2 PAC undercoat and acrylic topcoat. as I mentioned above i bought this paint to paint a car however was told by a few panel beaters its more of an industrial paint, so perfect for a trailer, its got to last better than cheap enamel?

Its not a hotrod a little too rare to do that to it, its the next project a 1927 Hudson brougham.

I think they are just braces so the rack does not flex, it should be fine with no weight on the front.

looks OK I would add a few more cross pieces particularly where the wheels of the towed car sit. my axles are 50mm square side to side ask for pictures of the axles as that is mainly what you will be paying for, i have seen trailer stub's sold at super-cheap or sprints as in picture then people weld a pipe across to the other side.

I think you have done a great job for a car that was found in a paddock with a few scruffs, well done. On the fuel cap maybe you can find one at a wrecker and have it re keyed to your ignition key

I really have not kept a tally But these are estimates about $5000 axles springs alone were $2800 5 rims $100, steel $850 side sheets + folding $300 lights mudguards breakaway $366 new tyres on ute old on trailer $800 plus 1 roll of MIG wire and a bottle of argon $200

They did read My above post,

I had a massive clean up in my shed ready for the next project, Put away a lot of stuff in my storage shed look i can move now.

I had a mate defected for a boot sticking up at the back and a windscreen cracked outside the vision area, the P plate attracted them like flys to shit.

Fred wouldn't be able to see where he is going? it would be a dream to back though. :cool:

Project complete and tested :cool: :2thumbs: Ramps painted last week and fitted today.

As Far as I know they were never factory fitted, dealers would fit at pre delivery as required the evaporator unit bolts onto your heater unit, a few ducts need to be added, probably easiest for you to find a unit remove it yourself so you know how it fits. then simply book in for a service and regass. 2nd option is a under-dash unit as in my Ke55

You want to be careful running around without a front bumper it could be defected for sharp edges.

Fred will not be happy about that one.

Max have you considered either a 4K 5K 7K or a 3t or a common 4a

Here is A picture of where I have found the chassis rails rust the worse,

looking good you are making good progress on this hardtop :y: :P

I have been looking for a immaculate hardtop / hardtop shell for 2 years, they seem to rust unless dry stored, look at the front chassis rails if they are OK you are normally on a winner.

You are correct it is unfortunate that the valve size can't be changed by much, so we look to improve swept volume by other factors such as porting, aspiration or a cam to hold the valves open longer. Every little bit helps.

As long as you are OK is the main thing, cars can be fixed replaced, people can't.

You could try tightening the manifold bolts when hot first.

the condenser is there so the points don't arc. so if the points look burnt or arced replace the condenser, I have noticed point quality is getting poor, I have recently had a few cars with the point wire broken all were Bosch points. the wire ends seem to contact enough to run but poorly.

Sorry to hear that, Do you think it is terminal ?