KE30_KE35_KE55

If your sure it is a jet with crap in it Give it a few good scotch Cleans, it will either clear it or Block it altogether.

I have had to replace a few xf floats they Implode especially if used on LPG also there are a few nasty diaphragms in XF carbys that could split or go hard.

I have repaired similar damage to a landcruiser rear diff, it was running two different profile tires front to back, frequently used in 4WD, the owner drove In to the workshop with a noise. the Carrier had cracked 3/4 of the way around on that one, a new diff center was fitted, I did think at the time perhaps a faulty casting.

Thanks For that, I have seen silicon contamination with Acrylic paint it happens straight away, it also seems to pool at the edges with acrylic, Does two pack happen later? the vehicle is a 1933 international tow truck I don't think they had silicon polish back then. it must be my prepsol rag. or the products here is the products i used,

I have a water separator at the compressor then another at the airline with a regulator on that one. then a drip leg on the compressor its self.

I have an extraction fan in my shed I spay in my shed put it in the sun the next day. here are some pics mostly of the reflection I found it near imposable to get good pics.

KE55PIG, I Ran higher compression, shaved head and block on my 4k. I frequently had to change head gaskets. It seems Everyone has an opinion what the is quickest/ Best method. IN My opinion If you have spent 3 days trying to remove the manifold in the car and Your taking the head Off anyway do it on the bench, just unbolt the exhaust flange 3 bolts it only takes 10 min, disconnect fuel/ vacuum lines and lift the head and manifold off together. You will Have to re place the manifold Gasket now you have already undone most of the nuts. On my own Cars I always replace all manifold flange studs with stainless and fit new brass nuts when rebuilding the engine.

I'm new to 2 pack so I don't Know I have Never seen anything Like this they look like pin heads. defiantly were not there 4 hours after I painted it. Thanks everyone I will post some pics tomorrow.

I don't think it is silicon as i prepared the surface first with series 2 acrylic that went on and rubbed out OK. I then left it for about a week. I am using glasurit paint, ICI auto color ms hardener, and a good quality thinners bought for the job mixing in the spay gun bowl 2 paint 1 hardener, .05 polyurethane thinner. Like i said it happened the first time so i let i sit for a few weeks it hardened up, I rubbed it back ultra smooth and re coated 2 days ago the ambient temp was 40 Oc. Does MS hardener go off? I will post some close up pics tomorrow.

It has been over 40 for the past few days it is baking well in the sun.

I saw this in country SA. It is the thought that counts.

I am painting 2 pack for the first time and I keep getting pin holes appearing 1-2 days after painting any ideas ??? I left it a week rubbed it back and it was like mirror, then I painted it looked great 2 days later these tiny pin holes start appearing.

Dam Nice collection. Your shed must be impressive too.

I wouldn't unbolt the manifold at all unless the gasket is faulty. This post is asking about a quick head gasket change, if the head needs machining the manifold needs to come off anyway. it will save you 20 min. leaving the manifolds bolted to the head. then you also have a spare gasket hanging in the shed.

Nice catch can, What material Is it made from is it polished stainless or chromed steel /brass?

for the Ultimate Soda Blasting It’s a variation of a sand blaster that uses safe, edible baking soda instead of sand. I have seen a car blasted with soda it comes out like a new steel minimal etching it is very expensive and it made a real mess.

when selecting a rust converter get one with phosphoric acid make sure you wash it off and prime well. some of the products that prime as well are junk. the main chemical used in paint stripping is methylene chloride it is a nasty solvent. it burns skin and the evaporation rate is massive Methylene chloride boils at 40° C. i have used it many times in its pure form to strip delicate parts. the problem as a stripper is evaporation to make it go further I cover my paint stripper up with damp cloth as soon as its applied, it seems to keep the fumes in and stop the evaporation. Used in the shade on a cool day also helps.

very true and the factory dips and primers would possibly be better quality than anything you could buy.

You had best get some insurance. my brothers 4 year old hilux burnt to the ground in a national park, his insurance had ran out weeks before and he forgot. then to top it off the national park told him to remove the car and if he didn't they would and then send him the bill.

it looks better than I thought it would around the windows. you are making good progress.

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thats bad I only pay $580 for a $27,000 car

I wrote some information on historic registration for those SA members interested, http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=15841

rollaclub is not endorsed. the alloys would have to be of the era for historic registration as well. I would have the yellow rolla below on historic registration but its on dedicated LPG that is not allowed either, $109.00 for 12 mounths rego is nice. If i had the yellow rolla on historic the comprehesive premiums would be about the same as the 3rd party i pay now.

I have 4 historic vehicles comp insured with shannons, My every day car is comp insured with the RAA. shannons quoted the dearest for this one. and the yellow rolla below is with the RAA too $60 per year 3rd party