KE30_KE35_KE55

I like the old school 1933 international tow truck on the back better , the Bedford was a fantastic truck but was too slow, used too much petrol and for full registration it was $1000 per year.

I recovered my own dash once a 1968 holden very similar shape to yours. Looks like its a pretty easy dash to cover, maybe if you can not find a good dash give recovering it a go yourself.

I just got rid of my truck thats why I'm building this trailer.

there may be a delay. I have got a big problem its getting very heavy i don't know how I'm going to flip it on its wheels, if i use the endless chain it may pull my piss weak c150 shed frame down. i might have to wait until I'm back at work on Monday and use a large loader and chain to flip it over on its wheels.

i wouldn't advise using anti seize on spark plugs below the following spark plug manufacturers recommendations [From AC Delco] Do not use any type of anti-seize compound on spark plug threads. Doing this will decrease the amount of friction between the threads. The result of the lowered friction is that when the spark plug is torqued to the proper specification, the spark plug is turned too far into the cylinder head. This increases the likelihood of pulling or stripping the threads in the cylinder head. Over-tightening of a spark plug can cause stretching of the spark plug shell and could allow blowby to pass through the gasket seal between the shell and insulator. Over-tightening also results in extremely difficult removal. [From Denso] If threads are lubricated, the torque value should be reduced by approximately 1/2 to avoid over-tightening. [Tip from Autolite] We do not recommend the use of any anti seize products for installing spark plugs. Antiseize compoundsare typically composed of metallic, electrically conductive ingredients. If antiseize compounds come in contact with the core nose of the plugs, it can lead to a misfire condition. Antiseize compounds can also have a torque multiplying effect when installing plugs

Day 3 Welded in floor, fitted springs and axles, A big Thank you to Thomo for advising on spring position.

don't get your head stuck You could drown.

Doug how did it happen ?

Thanks for the comments everyone, This was designed to be an integral part of the trailer so that when the ramps are fitted into there home at the rear it is a flatbed trailer. I will have a think about it as i have slid on checker-plate myself.

this engine so clean well done. I can see you have spent many hours on this project.

Tip top have many different sizes shapes you might find something you like. http://www.rema-tiptop.com.au/portal/index.php?page_id=68313

Whats wrong with checkerplate on ramps?

thats the plan, just getting a little worried about how heavy its getting to lift.

hey nice score the price was right, looks like a good rust free project.

Tip if you fit just a new inner cable make sure you clean all the metal/grease out then lubricate with a Molly grease, if you fit a new outer and inner cable lubricate well with molly grease also. it will make the cable last longer.

yes they leave a ridge in the bottom of the old bore so the sleeve doesn't fall down, the sleeves are bored to be a interference fit. they are cut off at the top. then the face of the block will be machined. i have done my own but probably best to get it done at a engine reconditoner.

I used black steel checker plate.

Don't take the chance, bore it out and fit 4 thick dry sleeves you will know you have lots of steel in the wall. They cost about $50 each

Day 2 continued got the checker plate fitted and stitched on top. its starting to get heavy.

2 new additions to the collection KE55S 907 049 2/1979 blue cars name sky KE55S 936 589 1981 red

Day 2 No call outs today got the main frame welded up.

Wow this car is clean, good project base look forward to seeing pics of upgrades.

Nothing wrong with it but i would just be naming it what i wanted to, like my blue hardtop would be called sky.

even if you need to fit 4 sleeves it will still come in under budget.

you may need to machine something so the 4A gudgeon pin fits the k con-rods and I'm not sure about piston height From gudgeon to top of piston. but it is just a matter of getting the components side by side and working it out.