HRV-00S

I'm not sure about the hole inlet outlet thing or if it matters, My water lines are plumbed from the outlet on the back of the head, and there's a hose fitting on the side of the block just behind the outlet for the oil sender. Not sure myself if this is an ideal setup, but it's doing the job so far. Cheers Dan

Don't get me wrong man, I'm not complaining about the distance was just wondering if it was gonna be the same destination each cruise. I was planing on staying in Sydney over night at my sisters but she's moving house that weekend too. Problem is that there's not a lot going on out my way but shitty roads, and it is a Sydneysiders cruise so you can't please everyone. There's still a chance I'll make it but if not the next one shouldn't be a problem. Anyway, prop's to you for organising such a huge cruise and hopefully it will keep on getting bigger :yes: Cheers Dan

Another one out :yes: My dizzy's F@#ked, I wont be going anywhere till a replacement turns up, gets locked, fitted and timing done again. Only 1 week to go, can't see me being ready by then but I'll try. Maybe next time, any idea where the next cruise will be heading? It's like a 3 hour drive for me to get to the meeting place, before the cruise even starts, then I've still gotta get home again. Just wondering if you had any other destinations planed for the future. Cheers Dan

I'm gonna go out on a limb, and say yes. I had an incident in my KE70 wagon where the diff almost hit the exhaust, only thing that stopped it was the brake line. I used one out of an RT104 corona, It needed some "persuasion" to get it in there but it's doing the job.

My cars still not 100% but I'm busting my balls to get it running for the cruise. Hoping It's just the melted dizzy cap causing the problems. So much work, so little time :'(

Fark me, you guy's are crazzzzy :'( I wish I lived in Tazzy...........nah stuff that, I like my sister but not like that :hmm: The "biggest rolla cruze ever" almost sounds lame next to this. Go forth and be inspired Cheers Dan

Cheers dude, Finally made some progress after nearly 12 months off the road it's rego'ed again and put down a comfortable 180hp at the wheels on 12psi. More then enough for now :'( good times Shit video but you get the picture :lol:

Yeah, that's a bit of a worry for some :hmm: Go the sleepers, and the wagon doesn't wear P plates either, so hopefully I should be able to slip through unnoticed. What's the punishment for dick heads? should I bring my key board (warrior) to give them a beat down? :'( 50.5 cars really, mines more bog than car. cheers

done and done teaser :'(

:y: Yes, yes I did :S Still sorting out some issues with fueling, or lack there of :P hopefully nothing major that will stop me from coming to the "biggest cruise ever" Cheers Dan ps: going for a drive right now :sob:

Just posted this on KE70.com to spread the word, tho most would be members of both I would imagine. Anyway, Hope you don't mind |blink| Cheers Dan

Hey guy's, Put me on the maybe list, getting my cat rego'ed on Monday :) So if I get all the gremlins sorted, and all is well at the new job I'll be there. KE70 Wagon --->4agte (ghetto spec) Cheers Dan

No worries mate, I had a look all they have on the back of the back of the strut tube, below the spring perch and above the bracket for the brake line there stamped with---> --->TOYOTA.CO across them and another code horizontal over the top of that, if that makes sense? code was different on both my struts. 1 2 3 TOYOTA.CO 3 2 1 Hope that helped :)

1. Like above, depends whats burning. oil, water or both? Id recommend a compression test for starters. 2. Check the plugs first cause it's free and easy, was it running well before it started blowing smoke? 3.Weather it's the rear main or the box seal, the box will be coming out (should be able to smell the difference) Chances are you will be rebuilding or replacing the motor so if the rear main is leaking it's gonna get fixed anyway.

Ive got a set striped down i the shed, I'll have a look at the markings and stuff later.

Perfect for that supercharged/turbo'd motor, not so good for L's or P's tho :thumbsup: You want a big port 3K head on there to bump up the compression :D Cheers Harvo

This is not my work and I take no responsibility for the accuracy of the tutorial below This is the Toymods link below --->Read this<--- If there is anything i have missed or forgotten please feel free to correct me. Parts Needed - T50 Gearbox and x-member - Pedal box - Clutch - Flywheel - Master and slave cylinder and line between - Spigot Bearing - Manual starter Motor - Manual Tail Shaft - Pushrod between clutch fork and slave cylinder. ( Don't loose it as i did) - Brake / clutch fluid. Tools Needed - 1/2 inch and 1/4 inch Drive socket sets - Spanner set - Angle Grinder - Screw drivers - Lever bar or massive Screwdriver - Drill and drill bits (not very specific i know but i can't remember exactly) Procedure - Start by putting car on axle stands as high as possible and draining trans oil. - Undo and remove tailshaft and Exhaust from manifold flange to connection in the middle. - Undo and remove oil lines that go to radiator. - Undo earth to box, shift lever, speedo cable, and electric plugs. - Undo trans x-member bolts with jack holding it up then slowly lower it watching that you don't crush anything between the firewall and engine. - Undo all trans bolts (lots of extension bars will help ) and remove trans making sure to not crush yourself. - Undo and remove torque converter and flex plate ( i jammed a big screwdriver somewhere safe to stop the crank from turning when trying to undo the bolts)(use a rattle gun :D ) - Rethink whether its all worth it. - Then decide yes - Insert spigot bearing.(can be a pain in the arse). - Attach Flywheel and clutch. ( i lined up the clutch by eye and it worked perfect, otherwise use a clutch alignment tool. I also used the jamming screwdriver technique again ) - Remove shift lever from gearbox. - Attach Gearbox in reversal of removing auto. - Jack up and attach x-member. - Attach Tailshaft, speedo cable, earth cable. - Re attach exhaust (rtv gasket maker ftw.) - Replace starter motor with manual one and attach. - Remove centre console, auto shifter, all driver side dash panels, gauge cluster and steering column. - Remove pedal box ( I had to bend the heater tubing out the way to get to the top left bolt. I don't know what Toyota where thinking! probably that No one would ever do this ) (refer to manual pedal box if your having trouble finding the bolts.) - Use manual pedal box as a template for marking the holes on the firewall to drill for the master cylinder. - Drill the 3 holes.(2small and 1 about 1 inch) (I tried using a hole saw for the bigger hole but it didn't even make a dent in the firewall, so i just drilled it then filed it till it was big enough.) - Test fit the master cylinder before attaching the pedal box. - When it all fits Attach the pedal box and master cylinder. - Then attach clutch line and slave cylinder. - Re assemble the dash reversal of removal. - Cut out the trans tunnel hole for the gear Shift lever. I covered up the gearbox so it wouldn't get shavings in it, and used an angle grinder. (Needs to be extended about 5cm forward. Markings are already there) - Attach gear lever, screw down boot and replace centre console. - Finally bleed the system. Now you should be set for serious Clutch Kicking

Hi all, I've got my wagon back on the dyno again and it's revving it's tits off at highway speed's. 4agte + T50 + stock diff = 4000rpm @ 110k's As I'll be on the highway for 1/2 an hour each way to work that's just not gonna cut it, I don't know what the ratio is as I forgot to check while I was at the tuners, but was thinking because it's a wagon it may have a lower ratio to cope with the larger load capacity? I think It's a little worse know that I have 14's with 75 series rubber on the back, but I don't know how much of a difference it will make compared to the 14's with 50 series tyres that were on it. I've got an RT104 corona that has a leaf sprung rear end that looks a hell of a lot like the diff in the wagon so I'm going to take some measurements off it to check it's compatibility, The axle code for it is: AM70? That's off the plate on the fire wall, I checked in the FAQ under Differentials but couldn't work it out. Anyway I just want to know what ratios are available and what models I should be looking at to source one from. Cheers Harvo

*Harvo goes to find tape measure* cause a ruler just wont cut it :wink:

^^^ It sounds like a Holden, doesn't it?

Apprentice, 1st year Fitter/Machinist with Rail Corp. Start Monday week, somewhere in the third pay bracket I think

I got my wagon with all the goodies in it, the fuel system has a low pressure lift pump into a 1ltr surge tank with a vl turbo inline pump with new feed and return lines. Not sure what size said lines are but there bigger then the standard ones. Not much help I know, are you using a standard ecu? or after market. Could be in the tune or just a sensor on it's way out? Cheers Harvo

^^^^fixed, yeah thats it and it's lots of fun too :fuzz:

man, your wagon puts mine to shame, It's so clean Harvo "goes and hides in corner" :fuzz:

Subscribes :fuzz: I'm kind of in the middle of doing the rear suspension of my wagon at the moment. It's not gonna be a race car, just my daily and I'm only doing it because the spring packs have been "tampered" with by the previous owner and are now f@#ked. All I've done so far is add an extra leaf and flip the fat bottom leaf and clamp it on top to lower it a little, also got some new shocks under it. Just gonna put these in to get It rego'ed and fine tune it from there. Ponders adjustable shackles :bash: Keen to see what works well for others tho