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Redwarf

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Everything posted by Redwarf

  1. Seeing as you boys require a history lesson. Back when the Dwarf was a lad, the 1930 Tatra T54 had a flat four and rear drive, as did the 1937 Jowett Ten. Not an new idea then. :P
  2. Amen Brother!
  3. Gday Ian/ others. http://palmside.co.nz/product_pcid_14751.html These are the guys I got mine from. I already had the LSD centre, so they sent the crownwheel and pinion and had it built up locally. Genuine motorsport guys who are good to deal with. :thumbsup:
  4. I can tell you that 4.77 crown and pinions are still available new. If you're interested I can point you in the right direction.
  5. Those photos have just made me even more apathetic
  6. Yes I've had an exedy button before. It worked fine. Either you're not doing something right, or they've given you the wrong one.
  7. Meh. For some reason I can't get excited. But then I've been driving a lot of Euro stuff recently.
  8. Gday, Per the forum rules, all items must have a price. Cheers Mods.
  9. I've got Green Stuff in mine. I left foot brake like a bitch too so we'll see how they stand up. I've used QFM's before and they're not bad.
  10. There's a point. I had a stack of ten brand new rally tyres and they smelt great.
  11. Best: New car smell. Between Mrs Dwarf and myself, had it four times now. Worst: Cooked engine smell. You just know it's bad, even before the bonnet is lifted.
  12. What on?
  13. Actually it depends on the age. If it has a logbook old enough, it may even be an alloy bolt in cage and still be legal.. *shudder*
  14. Originality. They're getting too rare to race.
  15. With the exception of the above sentence, it's all pretty much on the money. I have, and still do (mostly) service myself. If the service car needs to be moved, there's always helpful people on hand. However, in this day and age, central service is generally the go. Service is usually at the start finish, so your service point doesn't need to move. Yes mates are helpful, but not essential. Chequebook: Rallying is as expensive as you want to make it. Alternatively, it's as expensive in preportion to how fast you want to go. My two Corolla's ate 2 tyres in about 120km competitive. Chewed fuel at about 1 litre per 3 kms. Regular box, suspension, diff rebuilds, etc. Conversely, my Excel series car ran for a year on 6 tyres and about $20 in fuel, and you never had to touch it. At all. Panel beater: If you're any good, you wont need one. Engine builder, agree these can be handy, but not essential, particularly if you're running something late model and can just buy import donks. Rallying can easily be done on a budget. Join a club. Buy a car. Have a go. :)
  16. Well, what a difference 24 hours makes. Unfortunately another member has PM'd me with some details that aren't promising relating to dishonoured bids and abusive emails. I'd like to hear of any dealings with this individual, good, bad or otherwise. This thread will remain closed at this point, however the warning of "buyer/ seller beware" should now apply. Regards R
  17. Not everybody is internet savvy. Unless anyone else has had actual dealings with this gentleman, perhaps we could stop slandering him. Dave has, and happily vouches for him. Enough said. :locked:
  18. It's looking a bit like an early KE20?
  19. From the rules that You have agreed to: Feel free to readvertise in a couple of days. :locked:
  20. Gday, You need to place this in the wanted to buy area. Cheers Mods.
  21. From the rules that You have agreed to: Feel free to readvertise in a couple of days. :locked:
  22. I had a T50 in a 20 that had a rather agricultural, although reasonably effective device to turn push into pull. I went to hydraulic as it was the better option in the long run.
  23. Standard with the car, possibly for the duration of the warranty? I've had the car 20 months and it still covers me. :)
  24. You really need to do some research. Anyway, here comes the aeroplane. 249 plus postage is the price. That's how much they cost. Carbs: They fit Weber DCOE, Dellorto DHLA or side draft Solex. New you're looking at $550 per carb for Webers, or you can pick up a pair second hand for $500 or so. Second hand sets should be rebuilt to be safe. You MUST get these dyno'd once they're fitted to match chokes and jetting. Near enough is not good enough with side drafts. Plus linkages and filters. For a complete set-up budget $1500 for second hand set-up or $2000 new. If you're in Qld I'm pretty sure you can't do this and remain P-plate legal.
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