SeptemberSquall

OMFG GTFO deeze gogglezzz day doo nuffink...!

my garage lol-plus ... lol

:hmm:

03/08/08 CURRENT SPECIFICATION Specs: HEADLIGHTS ta22 mounts and buckets narva 5.25" 55w/60w low/hi combination w inbuilt position/parking light narva 5.25" 100w high beam driving lamps WHEELS 15x7" ET0 Konig Rewind 195/45R15 Yokohama S-drive AS01 BRAKES RT132 discs (266mm) and twin piston sumitomo calipers KE55 rear drums toyota 47201-06230 MCV36 camry (non-abs) master cylinder (15/16") ENGINE AND ANCILLIARIES toyota 11411-28010 cylinder block (post-update) toyota 11111-88222 cylinder head (2t-g second gen) (cylinder head) camshafts - trd rally profile 310/288 adv 260/248 @.050" .411"/395" lobe lift springs - performance rr4 valve springs (single) valves - 1mm oversize intake std exhaust ancilliaries - three angle valve grind, intake port at manifold enlarged 2mm, port throats and bowls reformed, port throats and bowls hand surface finishing (block) crankshaft - toyota crankshaft (oem 3t-c ex. TE72) connecting rod - eagle cromoly connecting rods, 2mm oversize gudgeon pins, arp rod bolts crankshaft brg - calico, coated main, big end, thrust piston - arias, forged (89mm bore, 10.3:1 compression) piston ring - acl, three rings (2 compression 1 oil control as for oem), chrome comp #1 ring gasket - cometic (lubrication) pump - toyota oil pump assembly (oem 3t-gteu ex. TA63) sump - moroso baffled sump 6qt, moroso windage tray ancilliaries - oil filter sandwich plate, external front mount oil cooler (cooling) radiator - aluminium alloy 40mm core fan - toyota fan (oem 8R ex. RT81) thermostat - toyota 82deg (oem 2t-geu ex. TE71GT warm climate model) pump - oem (ignition) module - MSD 6A capacitor ignition module distributor - OEM 2T-G distributor rebuilt and curved by Performance Ignition Services (Scorcher) coil - new oil filled something from performance ignition plug - nippondenso w22 (induction) manifold - toyota intake manifold 11141-88220 (oem 2t-g ex. te37 corolla levin) carb - 2pcs Mikuni 44PHH sidedraft carburettor w/ 37mm choke trumpet - alloy 50mm filter - unifilter foam sock (red in colour - lol) (exhaust) manifold - hurricane 4>1 extractor <<<< heap of shit IMO exhaust - 2.25" press bent mild steel, 1x straight-through resinator, 1x hot dog, 1x tri-flow muffler <<<<< quiet thank christ, god only knows the carbs are not (clutch) pressure plate: toyota technocraft co. ltd (TRD) (2t-geu ex. TE71) friction plate: oem style full face sprung centre pbr hydraulics: TE72 master and slave cyl, modified std KE36 pedal box (mission) gearbox - Toyota T50 (oem ex. TA22), AE86 selectors and extension housing shifter - toyota technocraft co. ltd (TRD) short shift set tailshaft - oem differential - oem, ke55 drum brakes[/font][/size] INTERIOR black in colour aerotech front bucket seats (pr) original door cards and rear seats original early model dash with black aunger dash mat black carpets dishy steering wheel toyota technocraft co. ltd (trd) shift knob new ute matting to cargo area for the dog - lol SUSPENSION RT132 front struts, shortened with Koni coilover kit ae86 lower control arms ae86 w/ power steering steering arms 275lb/in front springs + some tender coils koni yellow insert, shorter stroke than std all old shit replaced with new not-so-shit bushes and ball joints etc naturally reset rear leaves NOW WITH LOWERING BLOCKS TOO FOR TRUE f@$kOFF LOWDOWN some monroe GT gas shit, waiting to find time to measure up the rear end, calculate the shock/diff motion ratio, and crossreference some konis with the right valving to suit needs more stabilisers needs more negative camber at front needs a front roll centre and bump steer fix (in the works) DAVE WHERE THE f@$k ARE MY CAMBERTOPS HI FI source - pioneer deh-p4850cd tuner power - jaycar 2x84w front amp, jaycar 2x150w rear amp (2x230w @ 2ohm load) voice - phoenix gold 'octane' 5.25" component speakers, phoenix gold 'octane' 10" dual coil subwoofers (2) installation - cd tuner dash mounted in original radio position, vinyl trimmed door pods for front components TOW BAR OMFG FCUKENWHOOOSH!!!11ONE ONEELEVENTYONE 28/4/2007 Here is my new daily purchased for the princely sum of $1000. As far as I know it's a one-family car, original paint. Very tidy with no acco damage and no rust, yeah, none. 1974 KE36 Corolla wagon (5dr) White exterior with black interior Courtesy of the previous owners; - 5K 1500cc (replacing standard 3K 1200cc) - Weber 32/36 downdraft carburettor - Extractor and big bore exhaust - Electric thermo fan - TOW BAR OMFG FCUKENWHOOOSH!!!11ONEONEELEVENTYONE - 2" tacho in dash - Window tint (still black, not purple, and perfect, not bubbling and shitful) - King springs (front) - Reset leaves (rear) - Monroe GT gas dampers (front and rear) I've added: - Autotechnica bucket seats - $2 brand dished steering wheel - MA61 alloy wheels with 185/60R14 Yokohama A539's. - Bendix Metal King pads up front here it is with cheepo steelies on before i put the ma61 wheels as i bought it: current as at march 08 UPDATED JUNE 08 25/06/08 Yo, Been busy accumulating parts for the wagon around moving house, breaking up with my better half and an end-of-financial-year at work. Putting it together again over the next couple of weekends, here is the pile of parts i have at the moment, most things are done. > exterior white in colour (headlights) ta22 mounts and buckets narva 5.25" 55w/60w low/hi combination w inbuilt position/parking light narva 5.25" 100w high beam driving lamps KE70 bumper turn signals (all orange) (parkers relocated to main lights above) tintz stickerz > rolling stock 15x7" ET0 Konig Rewind 195/45R15 Yokohama S-drive AS01 > suspension RT132 front struts NOW CURRENTLY STANDARD KE36 STRUTS WHILE I HILUX THE CORONA STRUTS Koni coilover kit ae86 lower control arms ae86 w/ power steering steering arms reset rear leaves NOW WITH LOWERING BLOCKS TOO FOR TRUE f@$kOFF LOWDOWN > anchors RT132 discs (266mm) and twin piston sumitomo calipers NOW UPGRADING TO HILUX CALIPERS KE55 rear drums NOW PURCHSED TA22 REAR END, 4.557 CW+P, SHOPPING FOR LSD toyota 47201-06230 MCV36 camry (non-abs) master cylinder (15/16") > interior black in colour aerotech front bucket seats (pr) original door cards and rear seats original early model dash with black aunger dash mat black carpets dishy steering wheel toyota technocraft co. ltd (trd) shift knob > instruments speco black-face 2" oil temp, oil pressure, water temp speco 2 5/8" tacho + original oem guage set > hi fi source: pioneer deh-p4850cd tuner power: jaycar 2x84w front amp jaycar 2x150w rear amp (2x230w @ 2ohm load) voice: phoenix gold 'octane' 5.25" component speakers phoenix gold 'octane' 10" dual coil subwoofers (2) installation: cd tuner dash mounted in original radio position vinyl trimmed door pods for front components > engine and ancilliaries toyota 11411-28010 cylinder block (post-update) toyota 11111-88222 cylinder head (2t-g second gen) (head) camshafts: 300deg adv dur 256deg dur @ .050" .414" total lift at valve (clive cams) valve springs: performance rr4 valve springs (single) valves: 1mm oversize intake std exhaust ancilliaries: three angle valve grind intake port at manifold enlarged 2mm port throats and bowls reformed port throats and bowls hand surface finishing (block) crankshaft: toyota crankshaft (oem 3t-c ex. TE72) connecting rod: eagle cromoly connecting rods 2mm oversize gudgeon pins arp rod bolts crankshaft brg: coated main, big end, thrust piston: arias forged (89mm bore, 10.3:1 compression) gasket: cometic head gasket (lubrication) pump: toyota oil pump assembly (oem 3t-gteu ex. TA63) sump: moroso baffled sump 6t moroso windage tray ancilliaries: oil filter sandwich plate external front mount oil cooler (cooling) radiator: aluminium alloy 40mm core fan: toyota fan (oem 8R ex. RT81) thermostat: toyota 82deg (oem 2t-geu ex. TE71GT warm climate model) pump: oem (ignition) module: MSD 6A capacitor ignition module distributor: OEM 2T-G distributor rebuilt and curved by Performance Ignition Services (Scorcher) coil: bosch gt40 coil plug: nippondenso w22 (intake) manifold: toyota intake manifold (oem 2t-g ex. te37 corolla levin) carb: 2pcs Mikuni 44PHH sidedraft carburettor w/ 37mm choke trumpet: alloy 50mm filter: unifilter foam sock (red in colour - lol) (exhaust) manifold: genie 4>1 extractor NOW NEW HURRICANE 4>1 EXTRACTOR exhaust: 2.25" press bent mild steel 1x straight-through resinator 1x tri-flow muffler (clutch) pressure plate: toyota technocraft co. ltd (TRD) (2t-geu ex. TE71) friction plate: oem style full face sprung centre pbr hydraulics: TE72 master and slave cyl, modified std KE36 pedal box (mission) gearbox: Toyota T50 (oem ex. TA22) AE86 selectors and extension housing shifter: toyota technocraft co. ltd (TRD) short shift set tailshaft: oem differential oem, ke55 drum brakes can't wait to get it all back together and on the dyno to see what numbers it can turn,

this thread is worthless without pics

i used a te31 crossmember and engine mounts in mine and had no problems i'm running mikuni's on the factory manifold with 3" ram tubes i have heard if you bolt it into k mounts which are set to the driver side by an inch or so you can have problems

hello as title

Hello all, I'm pretty much ready to start driving my KE36 with 2T-G to work, but have a bit of a bind. A mate of mine offered some help rewiring some parts of the car while my engine swap was going on. He's pulled some of the wiring to bits and what hasn't been pulled to bits still could use some tidy-up. I'm good with spanners and remove grease well but when you put me within arms reach of 12V, bad things happen. I need someone who can wire up a few relays, solder some connections, apply some heatshrink and take care of a few electrical niggles for me. I've got a list of what I need done and it shouldn't be more than a day's work. I will provide: - Transport to and from my garage from anywhere in Melbourne - Beer - Food (Nandos, Pizza, whatever you like) - Materials - Cash Incentive What I need: Someone who can come sort this shit out for me becuase I cannot rely on the mate who was going to do it in the first place anymore? Thanks in advance for any help ~ I know if I take this to a shop I'll just get it back not like I want it and pay heaps for the priveledge.

konig rewind 15x7 4x114.3 +/-0mm charcoal with polished lip t3 are out of stock ozzy tyres are out of stock

ajps has performance challengers 15x8 -9 for about $250 a wheel

x2

i've got a ke36 aus manufactured by ami 11/74 build and my pedal box is different to this odd

date change to 9 september - how do i edit the thread title?

run through me. posted on toymods and a few places.

NAME ALIAS CAR/ENGINE Michael (SeptemberSquall) KE36 + 5K

Recommended programme; 1. PRE-MEET POINT (for Melbourne boys) BP Little River Geelong Road, Little River TIME - MEET: 9.15AM APPROX TIME - DEPART: 9.45AM SHARP BP is halfway between the Ring Road/Geelong Road merge at Brooklyn and the Geelong city limit. There's a BP on each side of the highway, and both of them advertise $6.99 Bacon and Eggs with a banner about fifty times bigger than you. Understandably, there is a heap of truck parking here, so hopefully room for a few battery-powered toyo-boxes. Good place to get 98 octane fuel for the day, and fuel yourself too if you've had no breakfast and you think $6.99 for microwave bacon and eggs is a good deal. Understandably, meet at the outbound-side BP, lol. 2. MAIN MEET POINT BP Winchelsea Roadhouse Princess Highway, Winchelsea TIME - MEET: 10.30AM APPROX TIME - DEPART: 11.00AM SHARP There should be 95 octane fuel here, but no promises. If you didn't come from Melbourne, or you were too slow to the premeet point to have time for your bacon and eggs, more greasy roadhouse food is available here. We collect here and work out a basic pecking order for the procession into Lorne. SPECIAL STAGE ONE FROM: Winchelsea Roadhouse TO: Lorne Pub There's some long open straight sections across the flats to begin with, nice to settle in and work out who's going to want to cruise faster than another etc. By the time we get to the twisty section at the coastal mountains for the climb and then decent into Lorne, we should have established enough space and enough of a processional order that nobody comes afoul of anyone else. 3. LUNCH MEET POINT Lorne Pub Lorne (duh!) TIME - MEET: (depends on your pace!) LUNCH: Seated at 12.30 SHARP. TIME - DEPART: 3PM SHARP. Meet at Lorne Pub to remedy all troupe members poisoned as a result of their inability to get organised early enough to make breakfast and their consequential consumption of roadhouse plasti-bacon and instant eggs. Seated by 12.30PM, out of the Pub by 2.30 PM, cars rolling at 3PM sharp. Not too many beers yet, the best part is yet to come. 4. SPECIAL STAGE TWO FROM: Lorne TO: Apollo Bay Depart Lorne, hopefully with a better idea of who wants to lead and who wants to follow. The GOR ahead has relatively new sealing in most sections but is double lined (no overtaking) and in most cases only patch-resealed, ie. new shoulders and broken sections filled, not new shoulder-to-shoulder tarmac) and is consequently a little changable. Consider yourself warned. Turnouts are available for slower traffic to yeild approximately every kilometer, but sometimes are missing for a few kilometres, be patient, not crazy about this fact! Enjoy the Monaco Effect out around Wye River. Arrive Apollo Bay and collect at a convenient gazeebo in the park near the skate park. Coffee and Bakery is available for human refueling. If you skate, bring your skateboart maybe. Peruse the beach. Collect and depart when desired. TIME - MEET: 4.30PM APPROX TIME - DEPART: BY 6.00PM APPROX 5. SPECIAL STAGE THREE FROM: Apollo Bay VIA: Skenes Creek TO: Birregurra Depart Apollo Bay, returning eastbound along GOR to Skenes Creek (5km east of Apollo Bay). Turn where appropriate and climb the mountain. Best part of the trip, over the mountain and decent back onto the plains to Birregurra via Beech Forest area. Tight corners, short straightaways, meaning good fun at safe speed and also beautiful forest scenery to boot. 6 FINAL MEET POINT Play Equipment Main St, Birregurra Gather about at the playground on the left as just entering Birregurra. Swings and slides abound for weary travellers. There's a trendy eatery there now, dunno if it's any good or even if it'll be open. Never mind. By this stage it'll be about 7.30, tending towards 8+PM, probably darkening before everyone breaks up and filters off. Break up from here to return to your respective points of origin. Princess Highway is a stone throw away, easy cruise back for those who are heading back to Melbourne. A full tank of 98 octane should get most from the BP in Little River to the BP in Little River, remember it's on both sides of the Geelong Road. If you're hungry, there's always the plasti-bacon and microwaved eggs on offer while you refuel the car.

OK, so the reason the front bars are different sizes is the wagon and van bar is designed to clamp onto the existing bar where the sedan and coupe style is a complete replacement. Question still remains how are the two cars actually different in the swaybar?

Hi, Is there any difference between KE30, 35, 36, 38 in the suspension front end design? Especially regarding front sway bars. Whiteline list BTF17 (20mm) for sedan and coupe, but a different part BTF6 (16mm) for wagon and van. Incedentally BTF6 is the same as listed for KE2# sedan and coupe. http://www.whiteline.com.au/docs/catalogues/WL_0323.pdf Why do you think they've done this?

Firstly, 2GR-FE in Aurion is 3.5L. If you wanted to go that way you could start with current model GS300 #GR model engine/transmission because it is already RWD configuration, but auto only and probably tied to VSC, TRC, and many body electronic subsystems. could possibly use current 1GR Hilux transmission for manual if that's what you wanted, that is 5spd manual but impractically short in the ratios, especially considering the low tare of the Corolla. Another alternative would be an IS250 box, which is designed for a passenger car with #GR engine. Considering the price on all that, if you wanted a Toyota V6 the other option would be a 1MZ from 98-06 Camry backed up with a W5# transmission using a GiantTomato adapter ring, would be less electronically complex, *might* be a bit more compact for clearance issues and definately more available second hand and more affordable as a result. If that;s still more than you want to spend, sure, a Commode V6 is cheap and.. well, it's cheap.

I'm also considering a strut change into KE70/AE71 using RT132 struts. I've believe the steering arm bolt pattern is compatible. It seems as though the RT132 strut runs a greater angle deflection from parallel between strut axis and hub face (ie. more inherent positive camber with RT132 strut). Any ideas what camber will be achieved with these struts? How much longer are the Sigma arms? How about TA22 arms? (Sorry, no real time to get to Pick a Part with a tape measure just yet!)