LittleRedSpirit

Just build a full house na 2tg and rev it to the maximum. Theres something about the sound of them at full noise... The k motors are loveable in the same way a fat old dog is. Loyal as ʞ©$ɟ, but no chance of fetching anything real quick. The CE70 is a cool curiousity to aussies, but not worth the effort to convert to. Especially since the stuff never came here. Have to buy from NZ. One wonders if a 2c would fit in its place, but really who cares. If you wanted a diesel corolla youd pick a better motor.

OK, a lot has changed since we last spoke, but nothing to do with the car. I have moved to a new place with a bigger yard, better sheds, and a much nicer setup overall. I am now literally 5 minutes from my workshop, so I should be able to squeeze more time in on work and play. My CRF is back from MPE with some amazing suspension feel now. Ive also had the pilot jet changed and its great. I havent done a whole lot on the car except connect up the heater pipes and locate the tap over near the wiper motor right out of the way, in a similar place to the ra65 tap location. Now I just need to wreckers dig to find a long cable to operate it and drill a new hole in the firewall for it. I purchased the speedo cable I needed from Mumnlezz on dc via ebay. $30 is pretty fair. I have also bought a centre console and received that too. Aside from being brown its all awesome. I pre filled the cooling system without the motor running to see if the coolant would make it all the way through, and its awesome, my bleed points allow the air to be removed really easy. I'm pretty confident in that bit of engineering now. Medicine man has been booked in in a week or two to do the wiring. Once we have a loom for it to run I can remove the engine and do the oil pickup and sump mod, and then fix the fuel lines up at the engine side and secure them really well there. Might need to add a slight bit more clearance with a hammer. Oh I also have mounted the new fuel reg by making a steel strap that wraps around the rad overflow bottle to bolt it to, looks pretty factory if you ask me.

Looks like a solid base, well as solid as any old corolla.

I'm not a big fan of buying 30 year old boxes that have been stood on the end like that. There now is most likely 30 years of crud inside the input chaft bearing, and it will never be quiet again.

Today I filled the diff with lsd oil and gently rotated the wheels to lube the centre. I replaced the vvt solenoid that I snapped the plug off a while back, and I kept the old one to put back in while shifting the motor round. Should be right for wiring. I also bolted in the lift pump, and fitted the entire fuel system besides the reg, which I have decided to replace. Its all buttoned up under the car and looking nice. I just need to visit clarke rubber to get some padding for the top of the tank. Ill probably just buy one of the cheap tomei regs from ebay for $70 posted unless anyone can confirm shitness of them. So thats brakes clutch and fuel system. I still need to fit a heater tap I don't think I can make a cable type work well once relocated so I need one from an ma61 or a soarer thats vacuum controlled so I can switch it electrically on and off with vacuum control. I swapped out a different heater pipe and modified it for added rwd suitability. I can now have confidence it wont sheer. I also stripped off the throttles, cleaned them again, added the new gaskets under, and refitted, torqued and adjusted them all perfectly so the car will run right when idling. Stoked with how that seemed to go. I had to do some strategic drilling of holes to make sure the allen wreches could get to where they need to be to adjust things, but it worked out great. Throttle cable reaches so thats 3 pedals I guess. Starting to run out of shit to do until medicine man comes by with his life giving powers. It will have to be sent out again for header correction, and the tailshaft. Also doing a bit on my moto in preparation for some riding with my mate Mick. Some new pirelli Scorpion mx32s and some suspension work from MPE at Caloundra coming up. I'm excited!

Any updates?

Today i rebuilt the rear brakes finally, and was able to get 2 pedals. Handbrake cables fitted well, and all seems fine. I noticed a small leak from the clutch reservoir so I fixed that. Next step is to finish the fuel system off, by installing the lift pump and the high pressure pump and connecting all the lines. Hopefully it only takes an hour or two to do, since its all planned out. I really need Justin to call me back so I can arrange the wiring with him. Hint ah Hint. I have to do a few of the odd fabrication chores now, like the radiator shroud and the airbox. Still need the tailshaft shortened too. Need more hours in a day!

FWD looms are way long, you can most likely shorten it all up and make it neat.

Tubbed!

Shannons is generally a pretty expensive insurer. I had NRMA tell me my work truck had dropped 2500 in value that they would pay out, and they still wanted to increase my premium to $1100 a year from $890 and the only reason they could give for wanting more money for less insurance is that the model of car is repaired or payed out on frequently. I dropped em like a hot rock, and moved everythng to suncorp, and insured the Celica and the Truck for under $1000 with full comp and agreed values of $12000 and $4600 respectively. Shop around! Try a broker even, sometimes they can forge you a policy from thin air.

The good fabricators wont even tell you. Youd have to trial and error to work out the optimum. The beauty is that you get somethig totally unique and have a shot at getting it freakily correct and having some particularly individual sound and power delivery, as opposed to the same shit as everybody else with the same exact results.

Did the fuel lines and the breather. Will need the motor out to finish routing and clipping in the front bit at the engine/firewall gap. James hooked me up with some ac switches and an ac surround. Cheers mate. I fixed up the fuel pump bracket and thats ready to fit once I see the lift pump and decide if I need to create andy more clearance for that. Just waiting for it to come in the post. Painted the backing plates on the drums with some bronze engine enamel. Will put the brakes together tomorrow. Should have 2 pedals. I'm going to need some help soon Justin if you have soem time sometime soon. :hmm: .

Lets rename this thread, Altezzaclubs Political Rant blog.

Thats really handy for me right now, cheers dude. :kewlpics:

Thats cool, how linear is it in its power delivery, is it predictable and easy to drive fast?

I don't really rate aluminium Bundy tube, I have enough steel 5/16 for feed and return, so will probably end up doing that if I can't find lines preformed anywhere to suit. Thats why I bought the bender. I know I will probably end up doing that but I did it once before and it sucks ass lying on your back and doing it under the car. I should have been smarter and done it with the engine and trans out. I'm looking at removing the gearbox crossmember and maybe the diff to do it to make it simple. I can just put the box on a stand and work around it. Its just a shit job to do.

Got the pipe bender I need. Bought a few basics like gloves and a mask for the welder. Trying to find a parts 86, not easy. Might have another look at efi lines tomorrow and see what I can manage. I might try to relocate the lines to the one side of the tunnel the whole way and bring them out way away from the exhaust, might make them a straighter thing and easier to form too. If I go to a 5/16 feed and return shit will be ace.

Mild steel gives a way less gay sound on a 20v, a lot fatter and less raspy. Stainless pipes sound awful mostly. That darn zingy jap noise, Id prefer a little burble down low. I liked the sound of mine.

Pulled the drums apart on the good diff in preparation for the rebuild. My mate James is sandblasting the backing plates for me and then I can put them back together and bleed, and connect the handbrake for 2/3 pedals! Also started on the fuel system. Measured all the connections on anyhing and made a table of the sizes, and mapped out how to connect it all. I need to find some stock fuel lines. One difference from ke70 to ae86 is the fact that the lines cross the tunnel on the ae86 for some reason, meaning the ae71 lines I had here spare were useless to me, and I'm best to just get some adm lines to copy from for my 5/16 supply, or to forget that all together and go to JDM lines which have the 5/16 feed line I need already. I could make it work best with a 5/16 supply line from the hp pump to the rail, as the rail has a 5/16 inlet. It has 1 1/4 outlet, and the return line on the surge tank is 5/16, so I might modify the nipple on the surge tank and put a 1/4 inch nipple on there for that, then I can use the stock 1/4 inch return line. The reg is 1/4 in and out, but I can swap that too so no issue there. I'm wondering if I should shop around for a different hp pump as the one I have has a threaded end one end which is easy enough to manage, but it has a 1/2 inch nipple on the other. If I can get another from somewhere with 3/8 in and 5/16 out Id be best with that, as it would forgo the need for any adapters. The breather is 3/16 line to the tank in its bung, and the car usually has 3/16 line for this too, so thats fine, the charcoal can has a 1/4 inch nipple on it, no big deal, the 3/16 hose will stretch, its only low pressure hose at that end. I need a lift pump with a 1/4 inch in and 5/16 out as thats what the main and surge tanks require respectively. Not sure if such a thing exists, Ill be researching pumps tonight.

Did a little bit more on this. I need to finish the rear brakes so when I had my mate James over yesterday he helped me pop the drums apart and check if the parts from other cars would work. Looks perfect. The AE86 wheel cylinders fit beautifully as per stock but wih a different bore to suit my MC. The S series handbrake cables are the perfect thing for the job. Was a good educated guess on that one. They seem identical to the mx ones except the length and mounting points suit the ae86. The shoes I have seem fine, they are actually for mx13. The drums had a small step machined into them and they are off an ra65. Bit of a hybrid of a few parts to make the brakes wotk in the chassis but overall very easy to sort out (with a little help from my friends :) Cheers to James, Shaun and Trevor Vidler at all clutch and brake, and Seth aka Japlish for the info and drums I still owe you $40 bud haha). So now that I know that will work, I might jump under her and fit up the fuel system. Thanks to some clever cross fitting I managed to put an ae71 centre duct on the ae86 heater box, and its just got these ends you uncap and connect to the ae86 ducts, its totally the same part except it has one little plastic extremity on top and once that gets cut off its ideal! Thats the only difference and probably why they have different part numbers. Ive been silicon fitting kitchen sinks lately so that I end up with a few rolls of closed cell sealing foam tape, and when I put the car together 100% finally I will reseal all my vents with it, and even tape up what I can, I really want the heater to work good! Especially after not having one for ever! So now I can put my dash together right down to the kicks. I won an excellent condition cluster surround panel and an excellent condition Radio console in Black this week on ebay quite cheaply. So its all coming together. I still need an ae86 centre console, and I might consider buying some new seatbelts too just for peace of mind.

Yeah only like every day in some small way. :clover: :lovin: :oops:

Its not going to translate exactly mate. Mine are on a 2.4 engine that will rev only to six grand and be 11:1 compression eventually, when I get around to fitting my forged slugs. Its pretty long to the lower collector, I think longer systems in general give you smoother power. I wouldnt bother with the pipe reduction after the cat or resonator, just go the one size all the way through. Your engine is desgined to sit wide open, so why restrict anything. I personally think there is something in it that Toyota equips almost all their engines with 4-2-1 if they are under 2 litres. Even a stock 20v, and having had each to play with, I prefered the 421 all day! Way fatter midrange for sure, even when they were cracked and rooted the 4-2-1s still gave me better performance than the new kaizen trd copies I put on after, even with port matching and polishing a bit in the collector, which I never did on the 4-2-1s. All the tidying up did was lessen the reversion moment you get around 4000 revs in a 20v. Giive me a ring and Ill give you Ricks digits. He is back working from home now and pumping it out. He is not far from you, he is at Runcorn on Beenleigh road near Balaclava St intersection. You don't have to use him, but have a chat with him, and go there and have a look at some of the things he is working on, its quite illuminating.

Good choice. Just don't paint it flat black, multicolour the interior on it, and put a trueno bar on it and attempt to sell it for $4000. Its worth more original. Enjoy it, if you modify it, make the mods things that actually help, like a strut upgrade, or some better shockys, or even a manual conversion as opposed to going to supercheap and getting all custom with the rattle cans and decals.