LittleRedSpirit

Made changes no luck. Considering cubing it and moving forwards in my life in other ways. ʞ©$ɟ!

Heres a couple of mates who helped me along the way. In the immortal words of Jeff Fenech, " I Love You'se All". My painter mate Callum who blew the silver on to the car for me. My mate Ben who always loved his old Toyotas and was keen to help. Also my mate Kory who is an amazing welder and who has helped me a tonne with mounts and things, especially early on when I first started this quest. I cannot forget Medicine man who turned up and wired stuff every time I sent out the smoke signals. You're an excellent electrician mate. I cannot forget Teddy Either for helping me with a few parts from the Toyota dealer bin along the way too. My Mechanic mate Brian from Rocklea Mechanical who has given me great tuning advice and contacts for getting work done. My mate Rick Sendall who fitted the cage, made the headers and fixed the floor in the car and modified the diff mounts and made the coil overs. Get well Rick. My mate Mark the Towie for shuttling the car all over for reasonable prices. Macs mufflers for doing a bunch of fiddly welding jobs towards the end. Cheers Clayton. and all who contributed ideas, thoughts, positivism or information along the way, you all are part of this, thanks.

Been studying the ecu manual. I have worked out 2 things I need to do. One setting is real simple, it seems its been set by Adaptronic to the wrong number of periods before a spark event, which would explain my car somewhat and how its behaved kinda oddly with ignition events. Its set to 3 periods but being a 4 cylinder 4 cycle full sequential motor it needs 4 periods of 180 degrees of engine rotation for each cylinder to have one ignition event. Hopefully that's the smoking gun and I don't have to wait around for Adaptronic to sort it out. I also have neglected to put a timing light on it and there will no doubt be some error there so if I sort that fingers crossed its going to run on 4 pots for me. Off to buy a timing light unless someone can drop by with one. Lets roll the clock back 8 weeks and look how far we've come...

Its all correct now.

Its trying to run sequential ignition and injection at the same time so it all has to work or nothing will. It seems like its igniting out of phase.

Its all been tested a million ways. Everything is fine. I'm not going to change anything in the physical system till I can have the software sorted out. Justin had initially had it wired as you describe but he just swapped the pins over at the ecu and it should be fine now. Getting a bit sick of diagnosis.

Justin came by and we checked and corrected as few issues and now it doesnt run at all. I think running on 2 was an anomaly caused by us having a couple of cross connections with regard to firing order of the injectors and ignition. All thats been swapped around to correct now so it can only be software related. I've checked the coils, plugs, all the wiring, fuel volume and pressure, compression of the cylinders (180 plus psi) and anything else that came to mind, but still never got one and 2 to fire and as I say now that we have made the firing orders correct nothing fires at all. I think something is up with the software cause the hardware is perfect. Anyhow, I have emailed Andy and Mark at Adaptronic so hopefully they respond tomorrow and I can get it fixed with a simple computer tweak. A big thanks goes to Justin for checking his work and making sense of the hardware with me. I did detect one small leak in the headers in the rear most Y join.

So I did the diagnosis swap around of the coils and found they were all good and the plugs were not. I changed them out for iridium's and the car instantly idled much higher, but still on 2 cylinders. I might have a slight wiring issue. I need you Justin to help test and diagnose it. What you doing today or tomorrow?

Starter motor all fixed now, and like magic it runs. They even sand blasted it so it looks much better. Naturally murphy is back and Cylinder 1 and 2 aren't firing so its only running on 3 and 4. I'm going to swap around the coils and plugs and diagnose what the cause is tomorrow. I don't think the neighbours need to hear my biplane sounding car at the moment. But yes, it runs, its sounding shit on 2, I dumped all the ve tuning and tuned it like a 20v on map x tps. Its going to be nice. It just needs two more cylinders to fire. Seems like the idle control will work as is, and the fuel maps aren't far away. Hopefully its just plugs wrong with it and I can go get some iridium's from Repco in the morning and call it sweet. Might even be able to try and drive it. The fuel pump shuts up after a few seconds too which is nice. I took some logs and a video but neither has much merit being on 2 cylinders.

Aim for something with a bigger bearing than the ae86 strut. Especially if you plan on a future brake upgrade.

Starter Motor is at the auto electrician. Ill have it back by 3pm today. They will clean, sandblast and change contacts, grease the bearings and change the plunger if need be. Once re fitted I cannot see why it wont start. I got so excited for about 5 minutes yesterday when it ran. Then so crushed when it wouldn't fire again. :S

Medicine man ran fat cables to feed power. We didnt add any kind of ground from front to rear in the car, I could drop one in just to see if that helps. Battery is completely charged up now so thats not the issue. I'm leaning towards starter cause its pretty shabby looking and I did get it to start and run for about 2 seconds after cranking on one of the old corroded terminals a tiny bit. ʞ©$ɟ. More parts more money.

Oh and the wideband is calibrated and installed fully now. As is the data logger. I'm pretty ʞ©$ɟing ready for this to run now I must admit.

So It wouldn't turn over with a new battery in it. It just makes the click like its low on volts. Ill charge it up as it may have sat a while being new but if it wont go after that Id be a bit sus on the starter. Of course its the only thing I havent serviced or replaced.

Noise is acceptable for right now if it works fine, so Ill have to give it a crank and see what happens. I've just bought a new 540cca Century battery for it. Its just been installed, so now I'm getting the logger and the wideband online and calibrated and Ill look at starting it asap I think so I can get out in front of any other issues I might find. So keen to hear it run. Might set up the Go Pro for the first start.

It will be hard to change to something different because of space issues. Ill more than likely climb under there and attach a hose to the inlet of the pump so I can prime it with a jerry can, then Ill loosen its fasteners and slip some shit under to cushion it. If it wont run quiet after that Ill be officially binning it in favour of something higher quality. I read an email response from facet about someone having the same issues and unless they are fully primed they cannot be quiet. Oh well. Back under her again. Its going to have to wait till the weekend as I have work to catch up on for the rest of the week. Ill probably buy a 540cca Century battery to overcome the voltage drop of boot mounting, and because it has a pretty powerful Camry alternator compared to the AE86 unit. May as well store some more power if I'm making it.

So the exhaust is all sweet now. I go to start it at the shop, and one pop and thats all the battery could give. I'm going to give it one more go on the charger and then see if it will turn over. On the plus side all the petrol stayed inside the fuel system this time and the starter engagement seems seamless. The one shit thing is the damn lift pump is so ʞ©$ɟing loud, its either faulty or going in the bin either way. Its a real pain in the ass. Any one reading this know much about facet posi flow pumps?

OK. Shes at the shop. I found and fixed a few fuel system leaks. Had to put in some new o rings etc. Worked out I had two pipes backwards and swapped those. Lift pump got much quieter, but ʞ©$ɟ its still loud. I don't know wtf is up with it really. Seems to work though. So far so good, nothing seems to be leaking, but time will tell. Ill hopefully be able to drive it home this arvo if I take the laptop and some tools down to the shop.

No worries on the passenger ride. You should bring Blue Mister Two to Willowbank when I'm testing it and we can have a race too. Bueno you bet mate. I'm just working through the last few things and its very exciting. I'm going to have to try and get it started before I take it to the exhaust and tuner so that I can make sure the cooling system is bled and working nicely and there are no other leaks in the fuel system or anything else before it gets thrashed. Oh I remarked the dipstick yesterday too. I still want to install a speed sensor too so I can tune with that. I need to see if Justin can test the one i have where I want to mount it in some dummied up struts as I want to put it in the hub and use the 4 rotor bolts to trigger it as the teeth. Hopefully that should work or Ill have to put it near the tailshaft or something.

Did most of the above now I just have a couple things to do. I modified the slave to give better alignment between the pin and its recess in the fork. Pretty close to the steering but its tucked behind but not in next to it so the rocking of the engine probably wont affect it and make anything touch. Bled the clutch again too so its working fine now. Fitted front mud flaps. Made and fitted Gearbox ground cable. Detected a hint of a weep from the sump again but I don't 100 Percent know if its some oil I failed to clean up last time. Will have to see how it goes and monitor it and it may mean sump out again for ʞ©$ɟs sake. Hopefully not. Ran the map sensor hose through the firewall and found the right nipple to attach it to the idle manifold bottle. Put the stone tray back on. Connected the starter trigger wire and plugged in the bar lights. Wound up some oil pressure and put fuel in the tank. Just need to load the map, calibrate the wideband and make some adjustments and hopefully I can pull off driving home from Macs on Wednesday. Mustn't forget to do something with the purge solenoid as its got to go on a different wire now.

I've done it now with two relays. All good. I already had a 7 core wire running from the accessory fusebox to the kick so I was able to use two wires in the set to bring power forwards to the kick after the relay switches on the feed, and the trigger wires I used 2 other wires in it and jumped the same feed Justin used for the stereo and gauge power. All working great now and room for more stuff if I want more. I put the relays on the left rear seat panel since its a 2 seater now. Odd Jobs for today. Plug in front bar lighting. Fuel in Tank/s Add Earth strap to the transmission Load the maps and config the new wideband sensor. Fit an interior light switch. Clip on the trigger wire for the starter Wind up some oil pressure

Looking at whats out there in iso relays, there are 5 pin types that choose one circuit or the other or power both at once but nothing that takes two 12v sources and switches them both without them coming from the same source. I think I just need 2 relays and be done with it.

Because it makes you choose one circuit or the other, not giving both at once which I require. Ideally both pieces of electronics would have a different feed from the fusebox that comes on at the same time with accessory power. I could fit 2 relays but I really just want to fit one for space reasons if possible and I don't want to jack them both off the same pin with both devices having different fusing requirements and possibly interfering with one another somehow.

I'm adding a relay to control my power feeds to my data logger and wideband so they don't run all the time. It will just be a simple system that is triggered by ignition power being turned on. My battery used to run down in about a week and a half the way it was in my ae71 without it. Want to improve that. Anyone know a relay type with 2 switched power circuits so I can use a single relay and switched 12 v trigger to feed both the logger and the wideband with separate 12 v circuits?

I've got Gary Coombes on it for tuning. He's always up for some R and D and is one of the only people I can find doing it with the will and knowledge to muck around with it for a while and get the vvti researched right. E420D Adaptronic Select ECU. Working my way through the maps and configuration now. I'm all wired for full sequential ignition and injection so I have to move the purge solenoid from Aux output 1 to Aux output 8 via a relay to control it. For some reason the ecu requires the use of the 1st Auxiliary circuit internally to do the maths on full sequential so it blanks it out, which is unfortunate as we have wired the purge to it already. Doh. :oops: I'm adding a relay to control my power feeds to my data logger and wideband so they don't run all the time. It will just be a simple system that is triggered by ignition power being turned on. My battery used to run down in about a week and a half the way it was in my ae71. Want to improve that. Anyone know a relay type with 2 switched power circuits so I can use a single relay and switched 12 v trigger to feed both the logger and the wideband? Goes to the exhaust shop for some tweaks on Wednesday.