LittleRedSpirit

Did a bit more tuning today. Sam Q was legend enough to send me some 8mm spacers for my trumpets, so I've gone and added 8mm to them. Its definitely yielded a smoother more powerful drive, and Ive got 2 more sets to add once I find some longer bolts and re drill them. Should be able to see if anywhere up to 128mm trumpets will work best. I also went to Clark rubber and got all kinds of stuff to seal around the radiator core. i even got some of the boot seal type for above the the radiator under the plate where there was a big gap. Engine bay temps were reaching 50 degrees in the heat already so i have drilled a souple small sets of holes in the bonnet cap. Hard to notice but should make some difference. Added a ground to my oil pressure sender rail but neither sender is still working. Shredded a belt due to misaligned pulleys again so I played with that and I think its right now, fingers crossed. No squeaks so that's a good start, Ill have to see if the edges of the belt fray. Pulled out the NGK R group 1 one plugs that the tuner left in there and unfouled my iridium plugs with a copper brush, 2000 grit and solvent. Didn't improve starting but it does drive smoother. Had a faint weep from an oil pressure sender union so sealed that up. Took the wife for a drive for the first time and she agrees its nuts. Can hear a creaking from the rear floor, I noticed the cage baseplate has kind of distorted the floor and with all this driving lately its popped a spot weld open. Ill have to borrow Peters hoist and fix that, plus there's a couple of shitty hose clamps in the fuel system Id like to swap out, I bought some Tridons today and a metre of fresh efi hose. Picked up some tonneau loops to make a lid retainer for the battery box. Might do something similar with the hatch to pull the corners tight. Or I might use a bonnet pin, I'm undecided. Picked up a piece of roll cage padding from clark rubber but I don't know if it will fit. That's a job for another day.

Aimed at mx5 market i guess

Well done I'm officially Jelly.

I saw a half ute converted ke70 shell in a deserted house. I walked over to have a look. I noticed it had spent go kart tyres in the back, and a stray work ewing of some kind on the shell. I found some mail, it was terrys place. I did get him on the phone the other week though, hes ok, just racing go karts and stuff and not doing wheels anymore.

Yeah cool mate, sounds like your well on your way with it. There is a great cooling system diagram on the net for these motors which I looked at to help design how it would work in my car. If you goggle 2az engine mechanical you should find it pretty easy. Its in a Toyota issued PDF. Shows how and where the coolant goes inside the motor and out. Looks great anyway mate.

Dodged a bullet there.

Hey that's great mate, well done. Plan B if I couldn't rwd it the normal way was to grab an sw20 and do what you've done. Great weight saver and probably does a lot for the mr2s balance. Is she all up and running? What sort of issues did you have to deal with aside from wiring and electrics? Packaging should be good for the swap as the 5s and 2az fit into similar amounts of space? Did you use the sw20 trans or a native 2az trans?

Awesome lads just let me get my tacho working and Ill be there asap.

Yeah cool thanks mate. We discussed the hasselgren built one a while back. Its sweet but its not in the realm of possibility but mines done with mostly Toyota parts and my own r and d. I think the Hasselgren one used Nascar level equipment and all custom cnc bits to adapt it all.

you should read this thread

Pulled apart the dash and had a look at the odometer. I have pronounced it dead. I also have done the tacho mod and just need to wire it to ecu now. Fuel gauge shows signs of life again. Adjusted the shocks. Tightened the hatch up. Removed swaybar while I look for better bushings. The whiteline oversize bar does not fit as it collides with the rear housing of the diff centre. Cleaned all around and tightened up the fit of the dash plastics around the cluster. Getting a faint hint of fuel smell while driving and noticed the rail has a bit of an issue where the fuel hose connects, I need to use the proprietary Toyota fitting and not a hose and clamp. Tightened up manifold bolts at the head. Had a long drive the other night. Things insane but the more I drive it the more bad tuining cells I find, so Ive done a couple edits on the tune so far and it gets better each time.

All the plugs are native being that the unique plug end and alignment teeth will mean you cannot incorrectly connect them, just plug them where they fit properly until all the wired plugs are connected. Sometimes the board will have more plug slots than are utilised, for example the engine bay fuse box of an aussie ke70 contains locations for fan and efi relays that were never used because the cars never came here efi, but they were connected in the 2tgeu version from Japan. Wiring diagrams are fully available in the workshop manuals, you need to take some time and study the wiring, and learn what colours are typically associated with the different functions and then you'll start to piece a picture together of whats wrong, or at least be able to judge where to begin testing things. If you have any push connectors crimped on then thats signs that someone has modified the wiring, maybe to steal a power feed or maybe to fit an immobiliser or accessory or alarm of some kind. Being that i remember it was your headlights that were faulty, did you try simply cleaning the combination switch out? Does it have healthy contacts?

At least in Australia you will find earthing lugs bolted: motor to chassis, down near the rails somewhere meaningful. In the bay near the front corner on one side or the other. Under the dash behind the steering column somewhere up high. From the steering column to the wiring in the cluster with a big wide copper washer with a wire hanging off it. Battery to body near the battery. In the boot near the taillights. You may have a burned out wire? Or a sneaky break. Look for signsof previuios damage to the wires. Did the problems coincide with any repairs or maintenance that may have inadvertantly resultedin your issues>? Who knows, if you throw water in the mix its anyones guess.

I can have any opinion I want about any engineering topic I want, it may not be a big issue for some, but was a big issue for me. My mechanic who builds circuit cars and has done since the mid seventies was shocked about the piddling little smallest available Corolla bearings being responsible for so much high speed, hard braking on cars that run a big scrub radius and much firmer suspension. If your message of support for the small bearing is founded on the idea that people on the internet havent written much about it, then that's not really anything more than an anecdotal remark with no engineering evidence either way. I'm happy to call it a difference of opinion, but the fact remains, I have probably done more miles on a TTT big brake kitted corolla on ae86 bearings and 8 wide neg rims than 95 percent of people in the game, internet or not. I dailied that setup for 5 years, maybe more and did maybe 60000 real world road and track ks. Do you value information from someone's actual experience? Its pretty insulting that the internet is your reference point for arguing against my actual experience. How can you justify or treat a lack of information as information? No having a go at you, just the though processes behind what you've said, because you've not really said anything specific either way. AE86 never had a top speed greater than 180klm/hr in any stock form, nor did they come with massive neg offset wheels three inches wider, up to 7 kgs a wheel heavier nor did they ever come with multi piston brakes with massive leverage on the rotors. Nobody really gives a ʞ©$ɟ so ill just keep all my good, real world tested ideas to myself from now on. I assume that's what everyone else does who has information. In conclusion: Buy the BCs like all the other kids and stick with ae86 bearing its great and kids don't complain about them. Also buy a flatcap and there's a guy on ebay with cheap pedobear and illest stickers. As we all know if something becomes popular then it must be assumed correct in an engineering sense. :kiwi:

Until you put wide wheels or big brakes on then youre well outside what its designed for and your bearings last 8000ks if youre lucky.

Consider the brake kits from group 4 fabrications if you find the TTT stuff is too pricey, the group 4 stuff looks better or at the very least on par with ttt and it comes from the UK which has been pretty stable with exchange rates. I can't fathom why anyone would get custom struts that don't give a bearing upgrade.

Got a couple more things sorted. I've borrowed some ssr mesh wheels from Peter down the road for the interim. Just 15x7 plus 15 or so. I went ahead and fitted them up but then noticed the 165 tyres on them. I couldn't get the jack out so had to slip blocks under the tyres, then went down the tyre shop and had my 195 tyres fitted up. Goes great now, I just need to fit some bonnet pins and some hatch clips to make everything nice and secure at speed. I also bought the pieces to do the ae86 tacho mod so the tacho will work as well. One odd thing, fuel gauge was perfect initially but now is intermittent, and the odometer isn't turning over even though the speedo is. Wierd. When I pull the dash apart I might have a few things to fix.

it should have a dipstick near the firewall

Rained here mate.

Offset determines what will fit and how it will sit more than width, and youve made no mention of it.

Hey thanks Reed. I seek to inspire people. :clover: Yes there's a lot of shonks, especially in qld where the motor trades are unregulated. Many self taught people who think they know everything. Thats a good point. ;) Thanks a lot mate. I am stoked, and after the refinements its a lot more civilised. If I can find some skinnier rear wheels I can go through the hills in it. I live at the base of the Mountains now here in Brisbane. The money was high but its not really an issue of cost, its the fact he ʞ©$ɟed around making a lot of low rpm refinements and shafted me on the top end, instead of following my instructions, he did the opposite. Plus now what does the tune really mean as he didn't even play with the vvti and try to find all the torque. It runs good on the quads, Ill just restore some of my settings that he corrupted and then Ill be fine. The idle air manifold is a great thing. Thanks mate. :y:

Worked towards refinement today. Took the day off and went to the mechanics place, he was able to order me a 7 rib idler and a belt to suit from Bursons, that will make the belt system as intended. I was at least able to shut up the squeak by playing with the pulley alignment before leaving home. Also adjusted the back brakes and they are sweet now and the pedal is awesome, but I still found them noisy so I went to the brake shop and my mate Shauny Vidler machined back the drums so they wont rub on the old backing plates. Jobs a goodun. Now the only things making undue noise are the hatch that needs the latch adjusted and the rear arches scrubbing the rims. I'm getting used to the fuel pump ticking away. Drives great but could be so much better with a better tune. I'm going to have a discussion with the tuner. I don't expect to be taking it back there and leaving it with him again, but he needs the feedback about his not so great work. Quite frankly he needs to listen. I'm most a annoyed that he didn't satisfy any of my criteria, and whined about the cost needing to be higher, when he is already the dearest around and he had the car in front of him and the logs and laptop open in front of him when he quoted it. I'm going to find it hard to remain calm.

To drive with its a sick motor. Its got a lot of torque everywhere. Its an impressive thing. It will spin the tyres with little effort even down in the rpm. However, Its hard to recommend with all the custom work required. Making a manifold, mounts, tailshaft, diff, and a custom clutch system will put most people off. Not to mention carving a big hole in the block for the starter. I guess I've done all the research though and would help any copy cats that want something similar. Hell if some rich person wants one built Id do it for a price, but rich people spend their money on old fords and Holdens and other European cars usually. The real test will be the long term. How it goes and what it beats. I'm off to start that research this Friday night at Willowbank if anyone wants to race it. Don't get me wrong. The tuner was a very smart guy and he knows his stuff and he did offer some good help. If I didn't feel helped he would not have gotten paid, but I feel like he could and should have done more and was getting a bit funny about the money vs time/power thing. He did offer the use of the dyno if required. I should go and use it to retune the top end while he watches. That seemed a bit silly to me as he had the vehicle for three weeks, had clear parameters and did it when he had time, which is a pretty good way to do something and keep the cost down. I feel like my patience and trust wasn't rewarded I guess and it wasn't cheap, so yes I will get away from him. Id love my own dyno but I don't know how to use one, so it would be a big pain to own quite frankly. Brad suggested the same thingonce around the time he needed dyno tuning time.

Ill be attending this Friday Night with the 2azfe ae86. Some of you bitches better come race.