LittleRedSpirit

Haha that would be a pain. You should have used Adaptronic select ecu, but I guess you had to make your own being an engineering project and all. You would need some processing power as the algorithm would need multiple speed inputs, ability to compare them and a feedback output to control the tuning, its quite complicated unless you integrate with ecu I imagine. The GT101DC was recommended by Andy Wyatt, Adaptronic ceo. He knows the good gear, and I have been supremely unmotivated to fit it for fear of it not working right and me having then molested my coilovers for no gain, but my faith was rewarded and I even got a good calibration out of it first go.

My bad forgot how the solenoid works. Car will run without it but wont idle I forgot that. You seemd to enjoy harping on that one. Please stop shouting. Efi motors still inject some fuel off throttle, or the car wouldn't run, some form of combustion is still required to tick the motor over and protect it, even if its currently outputting less torque than the motor would need to sustain the speed hence deceling. Its got less air coming in thanks to the closed throttle on decel but it needs to return to idle conditions under driveline load so it must inject fuel or the motor would cut. Motors are air pumps and to make any rotation they need explosions. The fuel is not only for combustion but for protecting and cooling the combustion chamber, valves etc. Usually ignition advances to around 40 degrees btdc off throttle on most efi motors and minimal fuel is input to keep it ticking over, if you want cracks and pops you add more fuel and get the flames out the ass, but you're right its a waste of fuel, if you believe fuel has only one function, to make you go forwards, but therein lies your misconception, who cares about making power if your motor isn't protected. If all you're really dealing with is decel combustion problems off throttle and you won't buy the parts to get everything on spec with your ignition what do you think will happen here?

Start with the basics like a hella good carby clean, adjust your idle mixtures and clean out the bowl. Fuel cut solenoid is only to stop fuel coming through when the car is switched off (dieseling on). So cutting the solenoid while the car is on is just going to stop you filling the float bowl and make it run lean and pop as it dries up, backfire etc which are usually the sounds of lean running conditions. Its effecting high rpm running because it doesn't just work at idle, it works on the fuel supply as a whole. You're looking around corners when you should be looking straight ahead. Crackling and popping like I said is more than likely a sign of lean conditions more than likely caused by incomplete combustion so if I was you Id be asking why is the car not burning all the fuel and passing some to exhaust. You would be experiencing bad mileage if this is the issue also. If you want to see how it goes with the correct plugs and coil that would be best. You may just not be able to ignite the whole mixture with a weak spark and the short plugs. This would be exacerbated at times when the motor has little access to air like off throttle as the charge entering is coming comparatively slow and with little turbulence compared to when the throttle is open and able to let in enough air to get a better vaporised mixture. I'm kinda guessing based off your experiments but you cannot expect it to run great with the wrong coil and the wrong plugs.

Hello. The honey well gt101dc is a widely used and highly regarded hall effect sensor that only costs about $90. I bought it years ago and always meant to fit it somewhere to utilise as a speed sensor. Its really beneficial to have a speed sensor in your logs so you know what gear your in and whether said throttle application yielded x speed increase. I used to have one of the Toyota made sensors that was pretty darn inaccurate, it would be good if you could get an accurate reading from it but the reading would jump around 10-15 percent +- from the speed you were travelling and you never knew precisely what your speed was. To my understanding Toyotas' tuning didn't require accuracy of speed reading here as all it wanted to know was if the car was moving or stationary to tell the auto to go into closed loop mode while stationary and save fuel. This Honeywell sensor is rock solid accurate as the way it works, like the sensor in the dizzy that tells you your rpm, is an iron tooth or teeth is required to pass within 2mm of the node of the sensor. I'm using the 4 rotor bolts as nodes. This triggers a magnetic spike and this waveform is precise and accurate and from knowing the time between peaks you know the speed. Many cars have got toothed wheels in the back of their hubs now to work with this type of sensor to give traction control, which requires a speed sensor on all the wheels to have the info to calculate when the front and rear wheels are rotating at different speeds and to adjust the tuning to make only the torque required to sync them or near sync them. I have placed it in the front wheel as the driven wheels can suffer from wheelspin and the data can become inaccurate. Having this installed also opens up some other tuning ideas, as there are certain things you want to happen at certain speeds. Off the top of my head I will use the sensor to lock out the thermofan if I'm travelling above 70klm/hr as its just going to restrict the flow to the radiator if the fan is trying to turn slower than the air rushing in. I can use it so that the car knows when its stationary and able to engage closed loop idle control too. Just little things like that that require knowledge of the cars movement or lack thereof to perform their function.

Today I fitted the honeywell gt101dc sensor to my left front hub. Drilled a hole through the back, tapped a mounting hole and screwed it in place. I was concerned that it would not work right due to the iron all around it but it gets a great signal off the 4 bolts in the back of the rotor. Much more accurate than the ones that screw into the gearbox and you get to keep your manual speedo too. Now my data logs will feature accurate info about speed so I can tune more precisely. I ran the wiring with the brake hose and back through the firewall and into the ecu. It just needed a ground, which I grounded on the head, a 12 v feed which I provided from acc power and the signal wire. Only paint in the ass is the ecudatascan doesn't seem to get the signal and interpret it properly.

Theres a product called muckowt at repco that you can descale the cooling system with. Put it in your water, run it a while till its hot, then let it cool and dump and flush. I must have stood there for an hour with one car I had, motor running, hose in the radiator and the block drain open while I poked around above the block drain to pick out chunks of scale and unblock it. No bubbles in the radiator? Bad HG can cause overheating issues too. Or it could be lean running which adds heat.

Hey buddy do you realise you have the 240klm/hr speedo thats rare as rocking horse poop? Just JDM has one for sale $675 I think. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Toyota-AE86-JDM-240KLM-speedo-Assy-LEVIN-TRUENO-Whiteline-Sprinter-/231826370353?hash=item35f9edaf31:g:cKYAAOSwQItUDlS2

Cool mate put some pics up!

I don't know where the idea that a 90 degree bend equals a metre of pipe comes from. I've heard pretty much the opposite, that 90 degree bends are desirable in some circumstances. Particularly with inlets and that they help to accelerate the charge, I can't see why an exhaust would be different. I want to see your working Altezza club, that line has the ring of an old wives tail, the kind of thing you hear, assume true and repeat forever without ever knowing the truth potentially.

What a sweet ride!

Its really easy to see the summer holidays as the magical acres of free time to where you can get your car done, but somehow between that dick in the red and white pyjamas, wives, typical car setbacks and travelling its a lot harder than you picture it in your mind. I know my car was going to be ready 2 summers ago, and it got to run first last winter. :clover:

The McPherson strut needs a spacer put it in if you lower it more than an inch and a half from stock. Its generally referred to as a roll centre adjuster and it puts the steering rack angles down to where they are designed to work and not give you bump steer. That and a wheel alignment.

This is from my car, the photo shows the adm pickup where it falls in the jdm swirl pot. I've got this feeding an external 1litre under car surge thank through a cheapo lift pump and genuine bosch hp pump 984 as 2azfe needs 3.5 bar fuel pressure.

Trust me when i say I looked at all options, but even if one of those manifolds fitted, the response given by 4x 44mm throttles is far greater than that given by one single 55mm tb that the stock 2azfe has. I was always going to be doing an itb system on a 4 banger. I just glued the upper and lower layers of the bonnet together better, carby cleaned the throttles, addressed two small coolant leaks which had lost about 50m of coolant in 3 full tanks of driving. One was a poorly chosen hose clamp and the other was a tank collar that wouldn't stop leaking a tiny amount. I also sealed the trumpet spacers up and made them seal to the trumpets themselves. I noticed a slight little gap there that would bleed air in from the side. I just ordered some yellow jackets coils to play with. Just for shits and giggles, and because I want to know if my coils are still optimal after sitting for years.

Theres a baffle in most tanks efi or not, but the right kind of baffles are required for efi. The jap ae86 tank has a roughly 2 litre ice cream container sized pot thing around where the fuel is picked up from.

And we mean steering lock, as in how far the wheels rotate to steer before they hit full lock, its like having two circles one larger than the other and with a shared centrepoint. A trip of 5cm total distance (steering rack movement) around the circumference of the small circle, will give more rotational displacement than the same 5cm movement does on the larger circle. Hence more lock from the shorter radius arms.

ra40 are still a long arm, if you want the shortest that is compatible with ae86/ra40/xt130 strut then use ae86 power steering arms.

Hmm failed experiment drove like shit. Haha.

Been getting some popping and crackling off throttle particularly between 2 and 3 thousand revs which detracts from the smoothness of the motor. Ive made a change as an experiment. Ive made the vvti work only above 13 percent throttle so I get the first two map cells clear of it and while torque needs are minimal it wont be using vvti. Then once throttle is increased beyond 13 percent it should work as normal. It will be interesting to drive as the control table has different settings for cam advance vs rpm, now I've got this second layer of control I should spend less time with vvti actively working and indeed it should only arise when I give it some gas. When I get off throttle it should zero and as the motor spins down hopefully its smoother. Time will tell. I may end up adding a map sensor multiplier into the vvti calcs somehow as this might yield yet more precise control of the vvti, but what I've done now will at least test my ideas about the smoothness of throttle.

Mixtures and idle get wound up on dirty carbs. First thing id do is carby clean the hell out of it while using your hand to cover part of the carb throat and increase vacuum and rpm. Should create extra un natural suction and draw any grime out of the carby. Short of a strip and rebuild that should help. I've had 4k auto cars that wouldn't idle and then did the clean and found they had to be wound back into stock screw position as people had just kept winding up the idle to keep it from stalling over the years instead of servicing the carby.

So sam didnt drill the ecu sensor in the plate? I don't get it. To my eye you need to mount the efi sensor so the computer works and then the one that makes the dash temp gauge work as well which is usually a single wire brassbodied thing. If you have another that is a switch it may control a fan or something, I don't really know. On my 20v with sams plate the sensors mounted in the back of the head, which is right where you want to be reading it. Top hose temps aren't ideal for ecu water temp. You might have to drill a hole for your sensor.