LittleRedSpirit

I must say I'm not a fan of those big duckwings, but do they have a good aero effect?

The shell already has no rear beaver lower section, absolutely no metal under the rear bar, and a glass hatch. The bonnet isn't a weight saver it wont be much if any lighter than stock thanks to all the sealant and the 1.6 alloy cap. I'm happy with that. Ill keep searching for torque for now and then maybe once I put carpet, sound deadening and some trim back in that's where it will stay. About 20kgs more. I like how it handles with a full tank too. The diff and gearbox are the big extra weight areas, but both nice and low under the floor. Did a big long tuning log drive up to past northlakes on the highway yesterday and it was really fun. Got a lot of changes made to the maps and should save a tonne of fuel. After changing to ve things are always rich as ʞ©$ɟ, I was on track to getting 300ks to a tank but ive taken back lots of the rich areas now I'm happy with the vvti curve. Ill do a bit more tidying up then Ill go get Robert Novak to tune it properly. Robs known for tuning cars and finding all the torque.

Just weighed it at the dump, 1060kg with me, a 10kg removalist blanket and the laptop inside. Once you deduct the mass of loose items its about 960kg. More or less the same as my 20v ae71.

What a sweet look!

Thats very odd. You found the limit. :clover:

Adaptronic have gotten back to me and confirmed its no PID issue, as I expected, its a firmware issue that locks out vvti control. Only if you have an unusual non arbitrary tune resolution like I do, which is at 250 rpm resolution up to 3000 and 500 rpm res. thereafter. So basically they say it will work if I reset the fuel map used to control vvti to arbitrary spacings. I'm going to test this and Ill see how it goes. I want all the torque I can find. I'm getting a bit over chasing these settings and once I have the vvti all configured and fully under control I will probably go find rob Novak and invest in some quality dyno time.

thats retarded :thumbsup:

Interesting story with the vvti. I had followed the manual and set up ve and vvti what was supposed to be correctly, but Adaptronic wrote back and said they replicated the error in the vvti output on the test bench and have declared it a bug. It must be something to with the VE tuning as the car had better control of the vvti before and now it doesn't have any. It was stuck at 4 degrees and wouldn't change to meet targets after changing to VE tuning. It did work before though with the same PID, base position and duty cycle settings and just using its target angles graph vs rpm for target input. I don't really get what's going on, and they come back with a few "fixes" but nothing that has actually worked. The best I've been able to do is adjust the constant 4 deg advance down to zero as a base position by adjusting the vvti 1 reference position which should help as it didn't ever in reality go lower than 3 or 4 degrees in the logs I had made. What's happening is the targets are never changing, so the new tuning mode is not referencing the fuel map that is now used for vvti angles. The one thing I did change that was a great boon was the injector dead times. I found someone's test data for Toyota injectors like mine and entered that. Made such a difference. Car starts on the third period of the crank every time where before it would crank and half run then conk a couple of times. Seems getting those injectors set up perfect really helps. I would have had way early injection the way it was before, so would have had pooling fuel to ignite in the inlet hence the half running. Also explains why my prior fooling with injector timing adjustments was a big waste of time that produced poor and nonsensical results. Today I will probably reload my last working vvti map, which would be my last ms tune before conversion to VE. Ill add the correct injector dead time table data, then the adjustment to the base position on cam 1, and then I want to know how it drives with vvti working closer to spec albeit with no load compensation. I bet the dead time correction yields power up higher in rpm and start ability and smoothness at idle. Before it would have a little stumble at idle once in a while. I hope they find their software bugs soon because I was enjoying VE and have a lot of time and research invested in the switch. They have told me to start increasing PID values and try to make the controller move, but I think this doesn't make sense as the PID values were correct as far as the vvti worked with them before. I honestly think there's a bad bit of code governing the system that is somehow relevant in the software once VE is used with a fuel map based target table. One nice thing, its not me, the guys have agreed there's a bug so I'm just happy I have learned enough about the ecu to now know when I'm not the one causing the problem.

I think its a good deal as long as the respray is done well

http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/runcorn/cars-vans-utes/1984-toyota-sprinter-ae86-coupe-18rg-celica-motor-dollerto-carbs/1105070949

Far too many. and yet not enough at the same time. In detailed tech support mode atm, because the partial throttle torque gain has turned out to be my vvti for some reason being stuck at 3 degrees no matter what I do with my settings, which gives more low down torque than being full advanced at low load, but the full power isn't there. I've done all I can I got the engineers over there on it now. I sent over logs and maps so hopefully I've just misunderstood something or there's something else I can do. matt

Wow theres a lot of work in that! Looking at your alloy cooling pipe over the alternator, have you considered putting a bleed point in the highest point there, I reckon you could expel a lot of air from there while filling the system to make bleeding it easy. Did a similar thing on the 2az with my copper rerouting of the water from extractors side to inlet side.

Looking good. People have been moving away from the expense and mess of blasting things lately unless youve got the budget to clean it up properly after. I did blast the wheel wells and bay on the car I had before and it made it easy but I wouldn't do a whole car I think unless it was outsourced but it could cost a lot of money. They can ruin the car with the wrong media too. Stripper is good, so is a good clean and scrub, degrease, rust conversion, followed by a simple sand and paint with epoxy primer.

So I switched to VE tuning and it was an interesting experience. A lot of reading and research to find my injector dead times, and my exact cc/min rating of the injectors and so on but well worth the effort to set up. The car drives amazing, best yet for sure and after adjusting fuel pressure down slightly to 330kpa and entering all this into the VE data along with engine capacity, plus taking away the manifold fuel pressure reg reference which stabilised it enough for the VE tuning to use it as a constant, it all drove remarkably well Its got a smooth character, sounds happier than ever and seems really responsive. I'm sure a fair bit of this was just correcting the vastly redundant and too high data in the injector lag table which would have delayed injection and hurt my economy which I have been chasing. Packaged with the switch to VE tuning was the native use of the map sensor by the VE mode, which meant I could use less of my tuning map tables for basic engine running and load compensation by changing tuning modes to unused, tps instead of map x tps. This freed up one of the fuel tables to use as the vvti angle table. I filled this in with numbers I plucked from my ass but in accordance with the design intent of the system which I found well documented and explained. I also found possibly the most incredibly detailed physics laden report of flow characteristics under different running conditions of the 2az vvti engine as well as Toyotas own explanation of the system operation. To summarise: VVTI fully retarded (off therefore utilising stock cam profile) conditions: - HIGH RPM - OFF THROTTLE - At idle for minimal overlap and minimal fuel requirement - Cold start warm up - some late model vvti systems don't turn on until engine temps reach 50 degrees or more. VVTI Fully on: - Low rpm high load VVTI partially on: -low to mid load at low to mid rpm. SO thankfully the research and testing was worth it and I was able to get it working in one afternoon. One side effect is I have an idle hunt right now that I didn't have but I think I just need to work on the maps and idle settings a bit to adjust things after the switch. I might even be able to add a digital input from the lights so that the idle comes up when the lights come on. That should allow closed loop idle, and when I get the maps closer I can use closed loop running of the motor. The long term goal being fuel efficiency that I would expect from this engine in this chassis, and the short term goal being more torque at part throttle by finding the right amount of overlap at each rpm and tps point. Heres mileys boobs for the fans.

Appropriate move. :clover: Love the build, intense amount of work but worth every second.

OK no worries, thanks for sharing your experiences mate. I'm happy to hear it welds great, I have a D gas cylinder and they have reduced all their gas prices, its 108 for the year including the first 2 full bottles free. So when I go through this one I can go to the welding shop down the road from my house as they are a gas agent and pick up a new one for free. Then a new one is about $40 or something after that.

2zzge might bolt in but your ratios would be gay

no motors of different capacities from other models will fit.

Then explain it instead of just saying no. I'm trying to understand and learn about this and you're a tight lipped fella. The manual says the gas comes on early to create the inert atmosphere and keep the weld ideal from the start and the gas stays on a moment while the weld pools to protect it until its hard enough to not be molten and at risk of oxidisation. I thought this was standard on all mig welders? What I don't understand is the 2t 4t modulation, does 2 t mean you click once to start, and release to finish and does 4t mean click and release to start and click and release to finish so you don't have to hold the button down? The manual makes some reference to RSI from holding the button down, so that's about all I can figure. The manual seems vague to me.

Thanks for the tips mate, I think with the 2t 4t switch you have some control of gas flow fore and aft.

You back in town?

Finally purchased a welder I can do some repairs with, a BOC Smootharc 180 MIG. On sale at the moment and got gas very cheap and all the bits I need for about $900 new. Pretty happy with that. First priority is to weld up a couple cracks in the floor and any other minor anomalies with the body so I can install sound deadening again, then carpet. Ill also make a harness bar for the car and use that to brace the battery box. If I can work out how to weld thin panel steel Ill repair the rear arches and then I can paint shit nicely.

I know timbo did a great and factory seeming job of integrating some late gen boot and door release solenoids into his ae86 recently. He may have some useful tips for the boot release source if you want a wreckers solution.

Good work dude. :wave:

Important to note the sidewalls doing a lot of work on the rear, and you can imagine how rigid stretched tyres can become and not grip like they should. I think the inside front wheel had a reasonable contact patch, more so because it was very flat on the road when it was on the outside so you're probably not going to scrub your outer edges off, and that's the main concern I think. Did they wear evenly?