LittleRedSpirit

Love KE70 imported a sick blue 2 door from the US of A. I think you need rb20 box in a ke, it fits better behind sr but I could be wrong. Welcome to the club. We have answered a lot of the questions you have a million times, its good to use the search function or google with rollaclub in the search string it seems to index the site better.

Borrowed a carb synchroniser today. Thanks Chris :thumbsup: . Discovered the adjustment was pretty good. Cylinder 1 and 2 were the same value 50kp and cylinder 3 and 4 were 49kpa. Not going to argue with 1 kpa. I really need a new tps to get rid of the small intermittent stammer as everything is smooth and balanced now but there has always been a burble in the thing that I couldn't get rid of. With the vacuum signal balanced from cylinder to cylinder Ive now confirmed through a number of ways the tps fluctuations I am experiencing are not mechanical. There is no play in butterfly 1 compared to the others, all 4 close in sync with less than 1kpa difference. I am experiencing an irregular tps reading that is fluttering up and down around the actual. When you give it the gas its not a relevant problem but at finer adjustments of throttle, off throttle or light cruising its a noticeable issue. It generally flutters upwards and only slightly downwards. Up to 1.5 percent and with no regular pattern but it never stays correct for moe than 5 or 6 seconds before it flutters again. Its just got to have some bad contacts. I went and picked up medicine man and he concurred. I need Sam Q to email me back to sell me a new tps and some more custom trumpets. Its a bit shitty to drive without a good tps. Plus it keeps effectively scaling up the fuel momentarily when its flutters upwards which is probably one reason the fuel economy is poorer than expected. Did about 310klms from 42.5 litres. A lot of that was idling making adjustments and funking around with things. All the driving except for maybe 10klm was city stop go as well. I can make it drive better with a tps baseline tweak but it still flutters.

Thats great for a shannons policy. With them I feel you usually contribute to the advertising budget more than fixing cars, you might want to check the value you will get in a worst case scenario as that sounds like an inexplicably low premium.

Ive never had tramp from a ke chassis but I never had more than 125 whp. It would just sit still and spin nicely. What is your suspension system?

Bent stub axle maybe damaged steering arms or rack. Possibly bent lca who knows get the jack out...

Cool. Drove by PLR today and asked how much they would charge to fit my pistons and possibly enhance the valve seats and overall flow of the head. Waiting for a quote.

Weather is cooler now thinking about going to test and tune again. Anyone keen?

It sounds like youre in the US o A. So in Australia an ae71 is a sedan or wagon powered by a 4ac single cam with carb and it uses the same wheel bearings as ae86 struts I believe which also are shared with the t18 (te72 hatch) corolla. They don't get bigger until they go up to celica or corona chassis on ra40, ra65, xt130 rt142 etc.. In the US it may be a different car, with different parts. The best way is to use toyotamarket.ru/jp site to search your region and compare part numbers.

The konis are gas too but they don't have the tendency to extend to full height like most gas dampers. That behaviour is more like oil but being yellow they are definitely gas. I'm not pulling the tank David, just swapping the pump which i can reach from under the car so its just as simple as straight swapping the part, that's why I didn't go in tank, plus the whole wiring problem through the bung as I don't have a jdm tank bung with the wires in it.

I'm now completely sick of the facet lift pumps noise. Its something Ill struggle to get used to, so I'm removing it as I have ordered a carter low pressure lift pump rotary vane type that is proven and supposed to be much quieter. Unlike the facet the carter will slow its rotation once pressure is achieved and it will not just keep trying to run at top speed. Sounds way better for a surge tank filling lift pump application. I'm thinking soon Ill have to pull the car apart and remove the interior, weld some stuff up, paint inside, do the sound deadening, and fit the carpet. Paint the plastics and the hatch, then put it all back together with the new quarter window clips, and roof lining. Then it should be a nice clean finished thing. At the same time I will remove the motor and have the 11:1 slugs installed and maybe a valve seat job too to enhance flow a bit. I fitted the rubber bushed stock panhard rod again yesterday, there was a tiny bit of play in the stepped spacer I made and it annoyed me too much so i bought some new whiteline bushes and fitted the stock panhard rod back in, but not before I painted it with silver gal paint. Came up a treat. At the same time I put the koni yellow sport dampers back in and adjusted them to a mid setting 360 out of 720 wound out. Feels a bit stiff I might wind back 90 degrees soon to soften the rebound damping. Car sits lower as the konis don't seem to push up and search for height like the kyb dirtra rally shocks did. I have on the shelf a freshly rebuilt steering rack from Precision steering systems that Id like to fit, as for some reason I liked the feel of the quaife 2.5 rack in the ke better than the sprinter. Maybe its because my daily is an ra65 with manual steering and the power steering arm mod done, but I think its more precise at the centre which is better at higher speed so I might look at selling the quaife rack and pinion and installing the precision rack with some Power steering arms.

Thats a fuggin extensive cage!

Its pretty poor because the ve made it very rich everywhere. I haven't done that many ks to really see, and Ive done a lot of experiments and tuning so its been all over the place. I need to do a test and see I guess.

Did a lot of testing and adjustments over the last few weeks. Getting it running a bit better now. I got the economy improving since I found some vvti programming that works nicely and makes it pull hard all the way through the range. Taken a couple of drives up the Bruce highway to log highway cruising. Seems pretty darn fun, I feel a bit less need to change the gearing now as its got a longer stronger pull to the engine. I still would like 3.7 or 3.58 gears though in the long run. I'm thinking about another trip to the drags soon to test the adjustments. Between sticky tyres, lighter wheels, better vvti mapping, softer and taller rear springs and shocks, and a cleaner near complete re-tune it should be on the up and up Should get below 15 in it I think. I did another oil change its only been 2500ks but I think without the heat exchanger it reduces oil life and it comes out spent enough at that mileage. I'm using Penrite synthetic hpr5.

That's cool mate. :2thumbs: One thing about e30s, they usually have had a better class of owner over the years and compared to a ke70 of the same age it would generally be better condition. Two door 323 not super common either. Most 2 doors you see are 318 and most 323s are 4 doors. Its super clean I really like it. Big aftermarket for these, you can get brake kits, aero lots of motor options, nice interiors from Is models and factory aero bits from the Is as well, but its so clean, its great as it is.

Is that a hint at an engine conversion or am I just wishful?

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Car: AE86 Modified/Unmodified: Modified Rim Size: 15x7 ssr fins Rim Offset: zero front, plus 13 rear Stud/Bolt Pattern: 4x114.3 Tyre Size/Profile: 205/50 r15 fed 595 rsr Fitment Note: Front is just inside flush, rear is under just enough that it wont scrub the lips. Its great for a hard driven car. I'm using ra40 front struts and an mx13 diff. The ra40 struts put the wheel in a very similar place to stock ae86 struts but I also use xt130 lca. I also felt my 15x8 -6/-8 set was good on the front, but stuck out of the rears 20mm a side on stock gaurds. Part of this is the mx13 diff is 6mm wider than the ae86 diff. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Any attention will help but Id suggest a full service of the cooling system. Replace hoses, thermostat, radiator and fluid. At least then you know you can trust the thing. Before all the new parts go in theres a product called muckowt that you can replace your coolant with and it will descale the motor like a kettle. then flush it clean and fit all the new parts.

http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/16233-toyota-pics-from-puerto-rico/

Finally tried out the new welder today, its great, I'm very impressed by its performance. I made an inch tube 2mm wall bar to hold the battery box in properly. Its got two big area 1.6 folded plates that hold on to the box, and a 5mm plates either end. Was a good little trial run. The job really would have needed .8 wire but I was able to find settings to get .6 welding it beautifully. It was made with under 20 dollars worth of steel from Bunnings so not a big investment. I think its substantial enough to attach harnesses to as well some day.

Finally got it hammering pretty well all the way through the rev range. When it came back from the dyno it had a hella mid range torque hole and a good little peak after to still make 107kw atw. It was running the same vvti angles as the timing map was ignition so that meant at full throttle I was advancing the cam to 33 degrees as timing was too, which would have been less than ideal since at these load points you would want vvti off for the best VE/torque/peak hp performance. I did a few different revisions of the vvti mapping after finally getting vvti control properly established. I was able to get it going pretty darn well yesterday. It wanted a fair bit of advance up to 4000 revs then a quick taper off. This seems to be the best way to control it I've found and short of dyno time its probably about the best I can do. Still working on mixtures on the lower load and rpm points for cruising. Might have to get it a little more precise then try closed loop fuel and see how that goes.

"Pretty smart and really well hung, and I've finished the exhaust". Nick Blackhurst. :lolcry:

These things take time :clover:

Good one what you doing with it?

You cannot just pick random shit from random cars and make it fit without a lot of custom work, if at all. The falcon transmission fits a falcon motor. The Supra transmission is just as good if you're talking r154. Eho cares about six gears what are the ratios? The final drive? Speed in gear? Why change tranny? Except for the fact it wont fit in the tunnel? Judging by the sound of your questions you might want to consider buying someone's finished project corolla with an sr20 or something. If you want to build something unique, that's fine but just make sure its in your wheelhouse skill wise and judging by the questions you need to start with an attainable goal. Believe me when I say JZ is not a great idea and impossible if you don't want to cut anything. Look at a motor with similar packaging to the original, something that comes in a compact size and weight and makes good power. 4age into ae71 is a good start. Will teach you the basics and not require a lot of modified parts. By the time you complete that then you will be a better more skilled mechanic. You need experience and the knowledge it brings to skill fully and safely execute an engine conversion, plus time and a good healthy budget. Plus be ready to never get your money back, and constantly field stupid comments like: "you should have put (insert some other random unobtainable engine here) in it". If you enjoy the technical exercise as much as driving then build something. If building something is a means to an end then just buy a car that's already done and put your touch to it.

If youre in Adelaide you might find it harder and be forced through engineering hurdles. Long heavy straight six engines are the least suited to an ae71. Put in a 4 cylinder motor or a v6 if you must be over the top. Commodoore engine goes great in one and Id prefer that over a JZ or BF barra any day. Especially to steer.