LittleRedSpirit

Yes its difficult but awesome and probably worth it once done. IMO. Need to make mounts, manifolds in and out, sump mods possibly, depends a bit on which 3s you use, as the stock 3sgte motor is front wheel drive and the manifolds are less suitable, whereas if you decomp a beams its already rwd and higher tech and maybe a better starting point cause you can use the stock inlet manfold. Have you bought your motor yet?

Toyota manual states Molybdenum Disulphide Lithium Base grease

Hello, The main thing that goes wrong with ke70 steering racks, is the left side bush gets a knock in it, as in some play. Its a hard metal sleeve type bush that relies on good grease supply to stay in good order. You cannot buy the bush any more so the best way to replace it is to have a place that does steering repairs eg BHSS in brisbane, turn up a new bush for the housing to get rid of the knock. Cost is around $300 for the work so nobody does it really. I'm lucky enough to have bought a car with a rebuilt stock rack that someone has made this investment in, and they have even added extra teeth to the rack so instead of 2.9 turns lock to lock I have about 3.4 turns lock to lock. If I can find some Power steering arms it will be an awesome setup. You can disassemble the steering rack and re grease it all from the inside out, I have often thought of adding a grease nipple or two so I don't have to remove the rack boots to grease manually like you described. So to conclude, you can do a number of things. To test the left bush play, pop the bonnet and hold the left tie rod end through the engine bay, then use your weight to load and unload the front end, and if it has play you will detect the end of the rack shaft bouncing up and down inside its telescopic housing. If your rack bush and rack is good, then you can just rebuild it or re grease it to whatever extent you can afford. If the rack is ruined you can buy a quaife quick rack that is 2.5 turns lock to lock from the UK, and have that fitted. Rack ends should be stiff enough that when the rack is removed the rack end ball joint should resist drooping even with the weight of the tie rod end on its end. If the ball joint doesnt hold the weight of the arms then replace the rack end.

Looks good its soo hard to find the perfect springs.

The pano flat front unbolts and a slant goes right on, but if thats the case its unlikey the quad will fit with no mods.

If your transmission mount and engine mounts are totally worn out, the engine and tranny can bounce around together and make you miss a shift, Ive had that happen, but the first problem sounds like an issue you need to remove the gearbox to check. If theres nothing obviously wrong with the clutch then its most likely something internal to the box, maybe bearings or something has worn and come loose from its position. Its hard to say very odd symptoms. Most serious tranny problems just result in failure.

Yes kids today and their buying tactics. Sell shit out from under you cause they are too lazy to post, lowballing, poor negotiation skills and no patience. Theres a reason I don't try too hard to sell lips, some people just arent worthy of them.

Ive merged your two threads and FYI, we love to help, but if you sully up the forums with multiple threads for your same single problem then you will get deleted and banned, as above all else its counter productive to finding a solution and spreads the info people may need to reference over more threads for no reason other than you are impatient.

Thats a creative take on it, cool.

All you will find thats efi and fits to the trans is a 7k. 1.8 litre efi k motor from a toyota spacia but you would be better off with a better gearbox since its got a lot of extra torque.

Anything will last if youre kind enough to it

I'm looking for comprehensive insurance on the ae86. The general insurers like racq that insures my other two cars arent interested. Theres shannons, Just car insurance, but who else can I talk to that does insure modified stuff? I might have to use a broker.

Its been done, however most people will play with the newer 13b engines when making a rotorolla. Its a popular conversion in New Zealand and theres a website called club K where a few of these cars are featured.

It takes a while to separate all the anxiety and rage from the exercise, like playing golf well. TPS calibrated to a record low number so was able to definitely get the throttles more closed than before. Had an occasional drip from a shitty hose clamp feeding the rad from the header tank so I swapped it out, and I realised I had used a copper coated steel pipe for rad breather instead of a solid copper one so I swapped it out for a rubber hose and changed the fittings to suit. Job well done as its tiny passage had already filled with crud in just a couple thousand ks. All clear now. Coolant topped up. I heated it up to get it to cycle the thermostat and my adjustment of the throttles is so frugal on air past the butterflies that I had to open the idle controller up from 61 to 64 to idle at the desired 850 to 900 when warm. I think I could even get a smooth 750 to 800 rpm idle with it if I wanted to. Might have to re tweak the idle up settings as well. The only downside is it still will stumble from a perfect idle sometimes, and this is due to the tps fluctuation error which I just cannot get rid of. Have to send out some smoke signals for the medicine man.

Ok two steps forward, 3 back... I decided there must be a correct way to adjust itbs so I did what I should have done a long time ago and I went to samqs website and downloaded the part of the silvertop manual that explains fuel injection. I printed the three pages that had the info about how to adjust and sync the itbs. I followed the method explicitly with the feeler gaiges and all and I was able to get it idling at 900 again and about .75 richer on the o2 sensor, which would indicate less air entering past the butterflies. Seems like success. Moved grounds around a lot and I cannot get rid of the ground loops, in fact yesterday i saw as much as 5 percent tps error while static. I disconnected the wideband and ecu datascan and found no change. I can test the sensor ground wire in the plug and find a connection to ground. I need to find out why and Ill be able to get it running smoother and more efficiently. Oh and just when I had it running right again it seemed to drop a cylinder, must have fouled one I assume.

Thats a cool bus, lift off roof and all!

I have a die grinder that will make light work of that tab if you wanna bring it over.

score!

Yeah good to meet you mate, and I hope the webers serve you well. I'm up for a cruise when you get it running the way you'd like.

Its got a series of 4 digital inputs that you can connect 12v feed to from any accessories that drop idle, or they do a million other things, control ecu features that need external switching manual or automatically etc depends what you need from them. It also has an ac up on a seperate wire. So made further tweaks to the throttles and I feel they are perfectly even. I connected the 2 ecu grounds to the motor and the other 4 ground wires back where they were and while things seemed better initially when driving once I reset the TPS it was shit again. I also got a sense that the fan switching on bugged out the sensors more than usual. It took a correction of about 25 units over a range of about 2000 tps units from 0-100 percent tps to stop the flutter affecting the running of the motor, so in real terms its about 1.25 percent tps fluctuation for the most part causes all the problems. Its not a tonne but it means if you correct it out with the tps sensors calibration, then you get a bit of jerky running at 0-3 percent tps. Getting pretty over this problem now. My last hope is that the ground loop I'm experiencing is a result of not having the right sensors connected to the right sensor ground wire, the manual seems to indicate that the cam1, crank, tps and coolant temp sensors connect to one wire, and that the air temp, knock and a cam2 sensor if required connect to the second ground. I need to test the source of the wires connected to each of the 2 ecu grounds as they test as separate circuits within the ecu so maybe they are handled in that way to avoid ground loops and I have some cross connection that causes my interference.

Yes thats true. Met Brenden (mechanical sympathy) at auto power parts today. What a nice dude. Drove all over to the regular auto retailers and got nothing except an oil filter. Auto power parts was good as he at least had the nipple I need to connect purge in a more sensible spot and also was nice enough to order the T pieces I need for the synchro gauges. Now I'm off to the back yard to sort the grounds and separate body function and sensor grounds. I pray to allah, buddha, vishnu, the great serpent and the anunaki that it works the way I expect it to and I get smooth data and better performance. I might even fit the factory oil cooler while I am at it, and I'm definitely gong to connect an idle up input for the lighting so the idle stays strong when the lights are on.

Made more adjustments to the throttles, maybe made it a touch worse, as is the nature of fiddling. I have been looking for the causes of the damn unstable sensor readings. Found that the ecu earths were connected to the body not the motor and that seemed to help it a bit when I connected them to the motor but still not perfect to my eye. TPS is more stable than before at 0 tps idling but flutters when the motor revs, I think I need to make sure just the 2 ecu grounds ground on the motor, and I think it will work fine. Ill need to test some wires to see that I have only the ecu grounds there connected to the motor now and I think that should be it. All the sensors seem to be connected to just the ecu earths so thats correct for sure. I feel like I made some progress but who knows. Also the starter didnt click in today, thats the first time its happened. had to hit it with a mallet, and it came good as usual. Bugger. Its rebuilt and all.

Put new tps in didn't change much. Motherʞ©$ɟer. I made more fine adjustments to the throttles, which did help fairly well, and went for a spin. I saw it sent the tune rich around 6 percent, so I was able to smooth out and tune a big fuel input flutter it used to need out of the map between 1500 and 3500rpm. I reduced it by about 35 percent to find the ideal afrs. That should help me save a bunch of fuel as it was in the prime cruising zone of the map, and it runs smoother and cleaner and drives smoothly from 16:1 afr at 1 percent tps right through 13.6 afr at 6 percent, then reaches 12.7 by about 30 percent tps. Its never pulled through the maps that smoothly at small tps openings before. I've ordered some matting and release stuff so I can make my air box soon. I have some epoxy resin and the mould body ready to go. Looking for a set of 4 reducing tees 8-4-8 so I can hook up the synchroniser to all 4 ports simultaneously.

Oh snap. Said third gear. Doh. Never mind car is still sick and you will find a box pretty easy. Since it has the 6 can I suggest a 535 engine conversion? hahah. How many rpms at 100klm/hr?