LittleRedSpirit

Car has been going great except I was getting the shits with the paint on the roof, or well, what was left of it. I had enough yesterday so I removed the windscreen trims to paint the roof properly, but that revealed some rust. Its under the screen. There's one little hole right through. I really need to pop out the screen and fix it properly, and its no great waste as the screen needed changing anyhow. I'm going to have the rear screen taken out of the celica at the same time so I can fix that rust too, as theres a littl bubble started under the lower right corner. ʞ©$ɟing rust! On the plus side I was chatting to a Toyota rep at my mates panel shop on Friday and she is hooking me up with my rod bolts and the head gasket I need to get my pistons in. Also after she saw the car she said you should get a job with Toyota and gave me two trd caps. lol. I think this summer the car gets pistons, some better paint, and a proper interior with sound deadening, rust repairs, carpet, a new lift pump and a heater ready for next winter.

Did you fit the wideband?

Or MA61 maybe

If you want a few less hassles put it into a soarer or a cressida as they fit a straight 6 better and have better balance with it, and with the potential of the 2j you'll be happy with the extra tin around you. You can dump a lot of weight from a cressida by removing the luxuries like the granite weight seats and the padded trim.

Be better off with an LS motor as its no heavier and it will sit back better. That said its too big to be legal and all that for the road. So maybe v6 would fit better. Straight 6 is always a challenge unless you want to sit the motor through the firewall and take it off the road or street and just drag it. The real beauty of both the ae and ke is the handling.

I like trailer wire for a cheapish wire source. Usually pretty reasonable by the metre or in pre packaged lengths of 5 or 7 metres if you look around and its 5/7 or 9 core usually. Maybe 30 bucks for 7metre lengths of 7 different colours. Catch being you have to cut it from its casing, but the casing is good and you could use 4x 7m 7 wire cables to get the correct number once cut in half. Some wire colours would repeat but you have them itemised inside different casings.

With the seat you can usually unbolt or grind off the stock rails from the stock seat, then bolt them into the car and sit the seat you want to install on top. Use packers to sit it how you want to. You might be able to bolt it right to the rails depending on the width of the mounting bosses under the new seat, or more likely you will need a mate with a welder that will help you weld in a couple of strips of metal as an adapter plate.

No the issue is that the angle at which the stub axle meets the strut tube is too great on the strut itself. The steering geometry is instantly compromised, and the negative camber is reduced, you can add some neg camber back in with the tops but you can never overcome the geometry error in the steering. http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/threads/50999-The-Toyota-Strut-King-Pin-Angle-Database I suggest ae86, ra40 or xt130 corona struts which have extremely similar kpi. Of these three the ae86 strut is easy to get but poor value. It has the same size wheel bearing as ke70 strut but the bigger 2 inch diameter tubes to suit. It has either 245mm solid or vented rotors depending on whether you get single cam or twin cam brakes. I prefer ra40 as it has a bolt on calliper bracket that makes upgrades easier like ae86, the bigger wheel bearing, the 2 inch tubes, compatible with ae86 steering arms, and 255 mm solid rotors. XT130 is very similar to ra40 but it has a fixed cast calliper bracket that is part of the strut itself and requires machining for upgrades. Hope this helps you mate. Sorry to tell you after you built your coil-overs but at least I can explain why you aren't happy with the handling.

Hello sweet car there. I think the TA60 struts have a a bad king pin inclination and they shouldn't be used in a ke70 as they will reduce your negative camber and ruin your steering geometry. RA40 or XT130/rt132 are very close to stock.

Nice

From my research based around 2azfe I found the toyota v6 motors have similar bellhousing pattern to the s or az motors. Therefore its the typical y or s housing to suit w55 that will work best, it should centre on the dowels like the 2az does with s or Y, and three bolts shoold work and you can likely drill and tap more as I did. You might need to cut away some of the motor to fit a starter from the front ala rwd as the v6 engines you describe are usually starter from the rear. The other problem is inlet manifold, as its complex to design and make fit. Id prefer a 1gr with 5 speed behind it but that might be over the limit of ccs being 4 litre.

Thats actually pretty epic

Interesting blog mate its cool.

Awesome!

Good price BHSS is more like 400

Lapping doesnt fix noise though ususally. Just reduces it a bit

Cool, my mates might have been a hd clutch.

On the stiff pedals, E30 has always had poor pedal feel, way too heavy. I've driven a few and afterwards I got back in my ae and thought for a moment someone had taken out the clutch hydraulics or cut the line cause it gave me the sense that the pedal wasn't hooked up to the system, but it was just that beautiful feel Toyota has to the pedals and I had quickly adapted to the weighty BMW pedals. I remember the accel and clutch being really stiff on the 318 i drove. I also found a nice trick while bleeding my brakes the other day. Bubbles can catch on any surface that's not perfectly smooth inside the system, similar to how they sit on the side of a glass sometimes as the gas comes out of solution, so I found by tapping the calliper with light to medium force I could always get a few extra bubbles out with the gentle shockwave through the component.

good for 30 more years

Could just be low on oil.

That's good progress even if you personally haven't achieved much as far as time working on it goes. Should be a sweet runner now. Pretty cool turn of fate that the motor you lunched was a short term proposition anyhow.

I would believe the half life theory as just from my own observations without knowing oil temps I felt the oil looked well used and spent after about 3000ks of what should have been ten thousand. I've now got the oil cooler in there with a gauge and it sits right about 100 to 105C so far so in theory that's ideal but Ill have to wait and see.

pry for tension

Went to fit my new brake pads today but discovered they sent ra23 pads not ra40 ones. Since I had the car apart, I washed the wheels and front suspension and rack, greased the steering rack as it was squeaking sometimes at full lock, bled the brakes and got a shockingly large lot of air out and put half a bottle of fresh fluid in. Adjusted the brake pedal height upwards and tightened up the handbrake, and bled all 4 corners plus mc and bias valve. I then used Chris' throttle sync gauges to make the final adjustments on the itbs. Got them all within about half a kpa so that's great. Idling smooth. I put some proper retainers on the brake booster vacuum lines and the pcv hose it connects to. I also put some on the idle controller. Topped off the clutch fluid too. All this really just looking for better feel and a firmer pedal, which I have got some improvement in now so I'm pretty happy.

Thought the banner was apt and worth framing in. Got some new rda 400 degree c pads yesterday. Was going to buy endless pads for a lot of money till I looked these up and they work to the same temps. $130 saved.