LittleRedSpirit

Period mods are cool. Well done.

Yeah. I'm realising you need to be pretty savvy to get it done without creating an endless amount of extra work.

Thanks Trev. Its been a big hassle but I'm actually starting to enjoy body work.

Have now done 1 stage of prep on the glass hatch. Since I want it to look like metal when done I will have to have a fine go over it with the lightweight filler and take out the small imperfections. I already did one broad fill from hinge to hinge to smooth out some overlapped fibre layers in the piece. Looks a lot nicer with primer. Also got this in the post from the motherland. A new top screen trim with the clips I needed, and the rubber seals for the sides.

Whats left of the beaver panel. Glass hatch has well and truly finished shrinking. Finished priming where I ran out yesterday and where I rubbed down last night. Weight reduction I ended up cutting out the rust, splitting the rear floor seam completely, scraping out inside, rust converting and ordering the pieces I need from the metal shop to weld in more material. Also bought more clamps and another wire brush that will get into tight spots. I also wanted to improve stiffness of the firewall around the brake pedal/booster bolts so I found a spare firewall side spacer plate, and trimmed and bent the edges so I can put it inside the firewall under the pedalbox.

There were C series diesel engines in some corollas around 98

Thanks Reed. So now I have primer all the way up the firewall. Looks good. I've also torn the back of the car fairly well apart. I cut out more old repairs from under the rear bumper and I removed the last couple of inches of the rear beaver panel by drilling its spot welds out all along the back and chiselling it off. I cut out the panel between the inner rhs boot structure and the chassis rail in the boot floor. Then snipped out the small rusted area on the other side. I was able to trimout another pile of rusty shit that will never go back in, to cut a long story short. I have now got to get some more sheetmetal pressed up and Ill shape it, then sandwich it in between the layers that make up the pinch seam, along the rear under the bumper. Then Ill clamp it up and weld it through the spot welds that I drilled out. A trim and some paint and sealer and all will be well. Seems like the sealer in the boot failed and then it soaked up water. The bumper hides it all anyhow.

I have collected the folded metal I needed from the sheet metal place. Its 1.6 thick so i can hammer it thinner and keep enough thickness. I had the vertical edge folded the same as inside of the windscreen gutter so it can sit neat up inside the screen recess and fill in behind completely. I must say I surprised myself with my blacksmith skills and after an hour of bashing I had it in place sitting nicely. I also removed a bunch more stuff from the firewall and then I got into chipping away the deadening that remains. Its a shit job, lets just leave it at that.

Repro badge not bad quality but will it last? I also got a spare window regulator in the mail with some ma61 hubs rotors and brakes.

You can measure this yourself if you jack up the car, remove a wheel and measure the space you have. Then work back wards and see. There are simple explanations online about how offset is calculated.

Picked up some 255x25mm yr22 hubs and rotors today to see how they go for a brake upgrade. They allow a thicker rotor than the ra40 hub. Might increase track a bit too.

Spent quite a few hours over the weekend rubbing it down inside and out. Couple mates rolled by on Saturday and helped me gett he doors in a far better spot, got it aligned nice. Then removed mirrors, trims, and mouldings from the doors and rubbed em over as well. I have a couple small rust holes in the boot floor but it doesnt go through to the outer body, so I can just section it out and plate over. Will have to drop the fuel tank soon, and then maybe paint around it under the car too as its had a lot of work in the rear. Looking to go over the whole thing, rubbing it down and looking for trouble spots, then once identified and rust sectioned out, fabricate all the patch pieces, and don't even think about welding until I can do it all in one session. I have the metal shop down the road folding me up some 1.6 steel I can use to repair the front windshield rot. One of the least enjoyable things, someone has removed the sound deadening fromt he floor and firewall, but only about 92 percent of it, the rest is still there hiding under the undercoat they splashed over it, so to clean the floor up its been a combination of scraping, sanding and solvent. Its coming along though, Ive done the boot, its just the front passenger wells to sort now, and they seemed to be done more thoroughly. There are so many screw holes that need welding up. Whoever made this a race car just self tappered absolutely everything in, so if you ever raced it everything would have just rattled apart.

Did you fix the wiring problems that caused the codes, or did you just clear the codes?

Do it, but buy a whole shitter Navara and get everything to make it run in one, then its just a matter of grafting it together. I gotta see another 2.4 corolla.

Got stuck into the rust in the ae86. I noticed it was coming through the panel under the roof layer so I drilled it out and got it out altogether to remove the rust as completely as possible. I also removed the rear 1/4 window trims and clips, and rubbed out the openings. I also rubbed around the windscreen, and rubbed down most of the rear 14 panels. I decided to bite the bullet and repair the fuel filler area completely. I cut out the old repair and the rusted bit of arch, but not until I used some paper to make a template, which I overlaid on a spare ke70 gaurd and cut the closest piece I could out of it. A bit of messing with a hammer and dolly and I had it looking pretty close. Trying to go right over it, cutting sanding and fabricating all the issues away, before one final bout of welding to put it all back together. Then rub down the interior and paint it. Then finish prepping outside then Ill probably end up painting that too to make it last once its repaired.

I picked up a set of 10 headbolts, and a set of 8 rod bolts and a std bore headgasket. Time for 11:1 soon.

Thanks Dave, but since you drove it I've played with the vvti and got more bottom end too.

Being that you are trying to simply use toyotas own system, then you should be able to download the ae101 levin manual and look for std service data to fix it.

Ill paint the plastics n dash black, some are anyhow. Ill paint the whole inside a grey like the original inside base layer. Just to look more ridgy didg and less boy racer.

Celica has been welded up. Right side was a challenge but got a good solid job in the end. left side was piece of piss only 2 x fine holes. Moved onto the AE86 windcreen opening. Its pretty strong all across. Used the die grinder to knock off the paint and scaly rust, found about half a dozen holes hare and there, none too large. I will be filling in some steel strips behind and the welding through to it. I hit it with rust converter and cleaned it up with water and metho. I've removed the interior from the ae86 and put it in storage, I'm going to take the time to go right through the cabin, detail it, weld up a couple of holes and fix a couple more rust spots or old molestation in the floor and then paint inside, sound deadening, carpet, and paint the interior Black before refitting it.

In general terms the stock system is very fussy and you wont be able to remove any wiring to do with any engine control system, or the stock ecu will trip up and either go into a pre programmed limp mode or as you say stop running. Does your racing class require a stock ecu? if not you can go aftermarket and greatly simplify the wiring down to just the sensors, ignition and fuel systems, however then its you who is responsible for a tune...

I was looking at an afr chart someone had raided from a 2azfe stock ecu closed loop system and it was supposedly happy to cruise at 17:1 afrs.

Celica had a similar air adder in the stock exhaust manifold but it all seemed to fall in the bin when the headers were fitted. Car runs fine without it.

Both screens are out, I have very little rust really but good to take care of it before it gets worse in the Celica, and the AE86 isn't too bad either. Its worst bit is around the fuel filler and rear arch lips. Most of the dark bits are just sealant left over. Bit of rust lower right hand side and a tiny bit on the left.