LittleRedSpirit

Hello and Welcome! That bamboo ke20 makes me nostalgic, there's a famous drag ke20 here in Australia known as OKE20 that had a 2jzgte in it and did a 7.99 before exploding the motor in a huge failure event. This is a good place to have found, try looking at our wiki page above for mechanical information or use the search function, if you still can't find something just ask!

Looks good Reed.

Lets go for a cruise Brendan. As soon as your legal! :osama: Congrats!

125 plus 175 = 300 ks on the diff so far.

I'm down for a meet up theres no where this thing wont be going. I had a great ae86 day today. Played golf, got some tidy scores and a rare birdie. Car went well all the way over. Then I went for a long drive this afternoon in aide of putting 1000klms on the diff. I just started north with no real plan, ended up near Woodford and then spun it round and came home. Last week before going to closed loop and the 3.58 rear end, the best economy I could figure was around 7.5 klm per litre. The drive today averaged 12.1klm/litre. I did 175klm and I only consumed 14.5 litres. I'm ʞ©$ɟing stoked with that. 8.26 litres per 100klm.

Starting a Rollaclub dynasty we are. Got it back from tinting looking ganster as ʞ©$ɟ. Need to go outside and bolt in the windows to the doors, I didnt have time to put the good windows in as the diff shop kept the car overnight. KE70dave will be glad to know the shifter de-tent springs back properly now both ways, Diff Lapping sorted that, as I had paid them $300 to strip, examine and clean the box and reassemble with a brass shifter kit, and they never said anything about the de-tent being an issue, so they were nice enough to free it up for me. The diff ratio change has been done, so the speedo is correct now, and the car drives in a more sensible rev range. I did some fuel trimming after logging on the highway on the way back from James Toyota playground last weekend, that gave me the data to do it. The diff has a little mechanical noise as new gears sometimes seem to, but its not whiney or anything, it just sounds tight and new. I was a bit worried when he said it had some noise, but its nothing really, and will most likely disappear after run in. Run in orders are to drive gently for the first few heat cycles, and to let it cool in between drives, essentially to heat treat the gears and to allow them to smoothly lap together. The after 1000ks its got to have fresh oil and then its bombs away. I've got the rev limit at 3000 rpm till I heat cycle it 4 or 5 times. The other thing I did was after getting the fuelling at highway speeds much closer to the mark, I switched it over to Closed loop fuel control below 3500 rpm and 20 percent tps, it dropped the afr from 13.5 to 13.9 at idle and the car drove really nice. I'm keen to see how it goes on an economy test now that I have accurate odometer and closed loop control.

Its back!

Wow, yeah like 2 weeks after that. Lifes so weird. Congratulations mate. Thats great news. :clover:

But also its booked in for 3.583 final drive to be installed on Wednesday and then on Thursday it gets tinted. It really wants the final drive, not only because the thing finds the limiter too quickly in the lower gears and drinks too much fuel on the highway, but also because it will have the secondary benefit of correcting the speedo in the dash which currently reads high about 10 percent. The final drive change will drop it 8.6 percent so it should be as accurate as any. I want a dyno tune from a tuner I prefer as well. I'm expecting things to be a bit harder time wise since my wife will be having a baby in June, but in the long term, I will be hoping to build a 1az 2az hybrid that is essentially a de-stroked 2azfe with a much higher rpm band. I need a 1az to play with and see whats what.

Future Plans... lots more days like this.

Cheeky badge

Superb :clover:

https://www.avs.org/AVS/files/ae/ae66e4af-9b98-47fb-b166-77d28a4bb3d2.pdf

I love how I study my logs and give the answer but its "no help". Buy yourself another 5 dollar gauge and do your own tests if you don't believe the answer.

Pretty awesome, I drove down to my cousins about 45 away tonight, it was amazing. So civilised and still sporty.

http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb235/mjbogan/20170311_115459_zpsduusnisb.jpg Fresh tint

Yeah its pretty funny when you look at it like that. I like the idea of using what's out there. Its more resourceful. Ideally Toyota should pay me to open up more possibilities with their existing oem parts catalogue and models.

My car idles at 50kpa and full throttle is obviously around 100. Id say 70 or 75 kpa.

List of models I used parts from in this build. AE86 RA40 RT142 MX23 YN55 ACV30 AW11 SW20 SV20 XT130 AE82 YM36 RS200 KE70 AE101 R31

Cleaned the inside. Found it has the Japanese toolkit complete with wheel chock, and an immaculate spare and Jack as well. Dated tyres with a 5, judging by the pattern of them, that's showing 1985. Rust repairs complete and back on the road. Its getting tinted tomorrow.

Finally shes all back together. Off for a shakedown drive to get some dinner.

Looking good mate, thank god kes have some fairly linear metal around the lights and tis not as hard to repair and smooth them out. You might want to redo the roof pillar rust with a welded in plate as I could see some rot in the structure underneath, and there may be a distinct lack of strength should you roll over.

ADM86 2014 JDM 2022

If you can find a transmission thats going to bolt to the block then all the rest is fabrication. You will have some of the same issues to solve as I had to overcome for a 2az conversion, like the rear facing starter, the lack of engine mount threads, the lack of a rwd transmission and the lack of rwd specific manifolds. If you can't get a gearbox, clutch and starter system working I wouldn't be spending a second of my life stressing over cylinder liners or far off theoretical problems. You can rebuild a motor with liners. Darton will make custom sleeves for any motor, the 2azfe has the same lifespan apparently but thousands have been rebuilt, sleeved and boosted to 500hp/500 torque I love the modern all alloy motors, especially with vvti, but I think you might be better off continuing your search to see if there is a more suitable motor with a rwd tranny that will fit before putting much stock into the 1nz fe. Why doesnt anyone do duratec engines in australia? I would put money on the 4age bellhousing being not even close to correct, why would it be? Theres no lineage of parts between the 2 motors, they were made 20 years apart and they are completely different. The 2az was similar to an existing rwd tranny only because of the lineage of all the camry motors like S, MZ, VZ and AZ all had the same dowel locations so bolts or no bolts they centred right and probably made their lives easier by designing the new motor to suit the existing tranny.

Measure the rotor and look it up in the dba catalogue, or pull the pad and compare there too.