LittleRedSpirit

Who ever thought that would happen? haha. I swear I blinked and 10 years had gone by.

I fucking love this. Ill happily take your $5 knowing that you are the real winner though. So there was the matter of a cruise?

Oh like 4 weeks

Congrats David thats terrific news! Incredible how we all ended up here after a decade of this rollaclub shenanigan.

Went off to the mechanics last week and spanner checked, the whole car, put in new gearbox oil, and did a wheel alignment. Reduced caster to -2 or thereabouts. Its on rails now. I hadn't had an alignment since I had street tyres on it. Ive been doing a lot of road tuning, I've got it driving super smooth, no more crackle off throttle on overrun, and mileage with closed loop fuel control has been within about 25 klms per tank of the open loop I'm running now. So much timing was pulled out, its incredible. I learned a real tuning lesson or three in the last few weeks. Still need dyno time to sort the finer points of the WOT performance. Also went and visited Medicine Man a couple of weeks ago, so stoked to catch up with him, and like my wife, his lady is also about to pop with the next generation of rollaclub.

I'm all for the 'ol oil and crank. It might come good, it might not, but its easy to do and it worked for Dave. Its a Toyota after all. This kind of crap is why we love em. $5 says it comes good, the motor maybe sat for years by the sounds... Oh and I have a second comp tester if you want to verify.

81 Supra diff is impossible to find in australia, you might have had more ra40gt over there.

club k 7 rib is everything after the really late bigports.

S13 gear doesnt work in ke70, many have done it, none have liked it, there are issues you cannot correct. Use larger Toyota bits form ra40 or xt130 to keep front end geometry correct. R32 gtr brakes on the back of a corolla is a pointless exercise unless you are building a car for wtac, and you clearly haven't taken into account the wheel size you need to run for gtr brakes on a car designed for a small rolling diameter. You should just buy an r34 gtr or gtst if you must have gear at such a high spec weight and ability, its all overkill for a corolla chassis. 200 hp woulndt kill a t series unless you have 200 plus NM of torque consistently, which you will have if you turbo, and wont have if you stay NA. An na 4age is a pretty poor drift platform though. People used to buy 4agze engines and toss the sc12 in favour of a gt28rs and push close to or just over 200kw with good supporting mods, but that's a shit idea as 4agze is out of production for 20 years now and they are all spent, so buy any 7 rib 4age engine and build it correctly with forged internals at about 8.5:1 and run 20psi and you wont lose. You can boost a stock bigport as the comp. is reasonably low, but it will be a tired old motor and it will shit the bed quickly, and it has the weaker 3 rib block, and smaller big and small end bearings which is potentially a problem if you plan to run high boost.

Until battery's give enough life to drive to alice springs we will always need petrol in Australia. Welcome buddy. Where in the world are you?

Up for a cruise today?

If your goals are 4age, then you wont need a more hd diff than a T unless you turbo it, and it would present a performance disadvantage to have a big heavy diff for the small low torque high revving 4age to drag around. Id lean towards having a T diff gear set cryoed for strength as opposed to going bigger. AE86 housing will fit and be an appropriate width. They do have terrible disc brakes, if you want a low fuss handbrake that locks up use a t18 or early ae86 housing that had them. Or you can start with a disc housing, upgrade to s13 or U13 rotors and go to double caliper brackets.

Still waiting for dyno time to be available at my tuners. Thinking about doing a lighting revamp, the headlights are dull and hard to aim. Need to get some adm lights that dont have broken adjusters, so i can aim the fuckers better, and I also need to rewire them, as they are super dull. I can drive around on high beam and nobody flashes me. Thinking about fitting some rallye 4000 hellas, or maybe starting with a relay and some better aiming then going to some floods if that still sucks. I had half an idea to put a light bar inside the front bumper.

You can use a housing from a t18, or ae86, or early te71 which you might have access to in NZ. Buy gears from wherever if needed, Techno toy tuning, weir, toyota etc, LSD centres are available, I can highly recommend the trd 2 way, but be ready to compression lock it if you cant heel toe at all, or be ready to learn to heel and toe as its pretty easy to get the feel of with corolla pedals. If thats a big ask, look for a 1.5 way, so it wont savagely lock in both accel and decel. Most t series diff are small axle zenki type, with approx 24mm axles. At some point around mid 85 Toyota swapped to a larger axle size and double row axle bearing in the ae86. This is called late or kouki. its faintly stronger and more reliable, and you need to make sure your lsd is compatible with the series of diff you use. Some axles will need around 5mm lathed off them to fit into the lsds, some wont, it depends on the brand of lsd. You can source lsds for t series toyota from cusco, trd, tomei, or maybe OS Giken. As I say, the trd ones are excellent, I havent owned the others, but the two different trd 2 ways I owned were tops.

K40 is the smallest gearbox. You could probably fit a t50 from an ae71 or ae86 and upgrade to hydraulic clutch.

S is a 6 inch diff, T is 6.7 inch, and also what sprinters use, so its the smallest diff you can fit an lsd to for these cars, but the s series has no such options.

Yes dont do quads unless you've got or plan to get programmable management.

Looks S series to me, but pray for T. Count the bolts!

Hello. I dont mind them, but for my application I cant see why I would., they sacrifice a lot of clean running low down for uninhibited performance up top. I cruise around under 2000revs most days.

No they are model specific. You can swap to ae86 gear. Or stick with t18. I think they are a 2 inch strut so shock choice isnt too bad if you can find a spring.

5k not a worthy upgrade over 3ac. Just service the 3a and look for the 4age bits. You can use the 4ages t50 transmission with the 3au, so just look for a 4age and t50 package and off you go. If you carb the 4age the conversion can be done quite quickly. Put up a pic of your car.

Nice build

Mechanically sync the throttles. Check for vac leaks. TPS adjustment. Then get back to us.

Yes your steering arms are also your steering knuckles. Your system is rack and pinion. That means you have a steering rack (essentially a toothed steel rod in a tube), which is bolted to the cross member and connected by the column to the steering wheel. The steering rack has a pair of ball jointed rack ends screwed into it hidden under the rubber boots that allows, in conjunction with the tie rod ends that are ball jointed and connect to the steering arm, enough articulation to make the necessary changes in angle at the wheel. The angle change at the wheel as discussed above is controlled by steering arm length. To fit ae86 steering arms to a ke70, you need to first buy and install ae86 struts. The ae86 stuff does not bolt into ke70 unless you use the whole ae86 strut hubs and brakes, with ke70 strut top. That would also allow a wider choice of shocks as they suit the more available 51mm struts instead of the 44mm ones in the ke70 for which you cant get many performance upgrades.

Its all about the length of the arm. Just draw a circle. Now draw a concentric circle thats 2/3 as big, inside the first one. The larger circle has a larger circumference. If the same distance around each arc is applied, it will give you more degrees of rotation of the smaller circle. That's how shorter steering arms give you more lock. Because you are doing more rotational work with the same horizontal movement of the steering rack, you end up with a stiffer feel at the wheel. Obviously it makes the steering faster. Or at least ti will feel a little quicker around the middle and a lot quicker at the edges. What someone has done to your car, by manually cutting and welding the steering arms is not road legal anywhere. Steering is very serious. Just put stock ke70 steering arms back in, and then you will reduce the effort, but be warned also the lock. Ke70 has plenty of lock for U turns stock anyhow. Its got a shorter steering arms than a stock ae86 but not as short as ae86 power steering arms. A lot of cars had power steering versions, so you can get shorter arms usually from a power steering car, and couple with a manual rack. Its a frequently done factory swap mod with performance benefits of lock and speed of turning, as long as you can tweak your driving style. Just dont sit there grinding off your tyres like a pleb without a slight amount of forwards or backwards movement to ease the turn when parking.