LittleRedSpirit

Its pretty easy to reinstate the vvt, Its just an on off solenoid and the wiring. If your ecu can switch a wastegate it can run vvt. Basically turn it on at 2000rpm and off at 6000 or 6500, its not helpful above those revs.

Got a couple of levin decals in the mail. I'm considering fitting a black rubber door strip and then the GTV stickers, since its pretty well styled off a gtv. Its got the zenki levin front, lotus rear lights, zenki grill, zenki lip, quick steering rack, so aside from the hectic bonnet its pretty zenki GTV styled. I'm actually pretty keen to find some power steering knuckles and to try those with the rebuilt 3.4 turn std rack i have for this thing, see if its nicer st speed, its almost a bit twitchy at high speeds, and the stock rack and shorter arms might be more neutral around the centre, and that would make it more similar to a gtv which I think had a manual rack and PS arms from the factory. Ive also devised a way to fit some high performance itbs to this motor, I can buy some from rhd engineering. I've been looking at whats out there. The Jenvey ones area bit old school looking, not super compact and they are about 185 pounds a throttle, without linkages and that's just too pricey. They take much more to fit and are so darn expensive. I really want to fit upstream injectors at the same time, because I believe that this would give a much stronger top end to switch to those around 5000rpm, and get better atomised fuel from the inlet by delivering it farther upstream. The RHD engineering product looks the most adaptable to me. They bolt up to side draught manifold mounts, so you can use them on a number of things. They have o rings both sides as standard, and I like the efficiency of that. They have a very compact design. They also have an injector opening under the throttle plate, which I think is a good place to inject to get the atomisation to be maximised. All it would take to fit them would be to make an adaptor plate that shares both patterns and bolts to my current manifold. I would probably use the 48mm size as I think with a half inch thick aluminium adaptor plate I can port match them into my manifold nicely and just bolt it all up. I still need a second fuel rail and a second set of injectors, but that's not too hard, I could even just use a stock 2azfe rail and tap an outlet on it.

Think looks good. Every second ticking off the clock must be itching you! Its time to drive! Need a hand to drop her in this weekend?

While that's' all very interesting have you contacted dyno dynamics for a price on a basic unit? I remember a few years ago we looked and it was surprisingly affordable. That said you'd want to use it professionally to pay it off. How many mates need tuning on it? I think being limited to 6000 is a problem, I find the dyno is the best tool for testing the rpm where its hard to drive at on the road, so its going to fall short of its true requirements if its only spinning to 6000 to tune. Wheres the nearest dyno already installed in your area? Is it a viable opportunity? With the setup described above, can you do everything a dyno can? Can you vary the load, to allow testing at all points of load. Can you work at steady state, and keep it exactly where its at so you can isolate a cell? Its not a great tool if its not controllable.

If it was that rich for that long you might have glazed the bores. Try some thicker oil see if that helps the smoke.

Thats gonna steer nicely!

Holy shit Im sure it went twice as good and twice as far after that was resolved!

And on the time issue, I simply scheduled some time this week for golf and car related stuff. Its good to have a work life balance, and I've just completed a large renovation project and am only working on smaller jobs at this time, so I had a small window to do this. I did fresh oil and filter at 7pm last night, and washed the air filters. Wifey is very understanding and coping well. The thing my child is teaching me is to be more productive with my time, because my life now contains a new layer of inescapable responsibility, but it doesn't feel that way, I find it inspirational. What I do I want to do well, with work and with my interests. I want to set a strong and thoughtful example for my child, and I want to see her grow up to be an interesting person and not a vapid level 7 iphone zombie.

It would have some effect on airspeed at low tps undeniably, but airspeed and inlet length can be balanced to pick that up. With the stroke of the engine it pulls hard enough from 1000 rpm with nice driveability. Maybe that figure shifts to 1300 rpm, and the peak goes from where it is now to slightly higher? I can live with that. It currently plateaus around the 110kw mark for the last 600 rpm. In theory if it kept going from there, it would improve peak and not hurt the low rpm performance too much, its always going to suck a lot of air being a 2369cc engine. I still dont know about cams, because I dont want to spin it faster than 6500 rpm, and it would probably need rods and pistons done to save weight to achieve it day in day out. It may be happy to peak at 6500 rpm anyhow, and I'd only really need lift and minimal duration increases if that were the reality of it. Maybe a nice well balanced setup would be 50mm ITBS, port tidy up more than porting as such, and some lighter valvetrain equipment, maybe oversized 1mm in and out, on standard camshafts. I think with a 4-1 header I can put the peak to the top of the rpm band and shift the VE a bit higher if we can get the air through the inlet and out the exhaust.

Just got back from the dyno. Was not able to increase peak hp, but did a few other productive things. We did some testing to reveal the itbs are at their limit of flow. When you increase inlet length by 2 inches like I did, you should see some more torque across the lower revs. This did not occur, which is generally a good indicator that the air is already as fast as it can go as it passes the throttle butterfly. Therefore the only way to make more peak power is to go to a bigger butterfly throttle. Rob thinks around 50mm butterflies. The limit of the silvertop itbs if you bore them is around +2mm so about 45mm butterfly. This isnt going to cut it really. Instead of finding power we did the vvti setup and found the most appropriate setup for each and found whatever was available under the curve. We did 50, 75 and 100 percent tp tuning, and interpolated the rest, which yielded some nice drive ability and response. We trimmed a lot of fuel out of the maps, and reduced the overall consumption I would say fairly dramatically, full throttle was close to ok but a touch rich, but 75 and 50 percent were way rich and it allowed me to slash fuel out of unimportant zones of the map that you dont really drive in but that you often blip the motor through when you change gears. I have already noticed less unburned fuel rumbling out of the exhaust on the change. So looking forwards, I need to stop fussing with inlet lengths and to look at increasing flow through the inlet manifold. I need to stop worrying about cams till I work out how to input more air into the motor. That would be a wasted exercise unless that happens. In the longer term I may buy a used 2azfe to fit in the place of this low mile near new motor, and then I can pull this motor down, get my pistons fitted and get an inlet made that will open up the airflow. Then I could consider cams, bigger valves and some porting, and maybe some 4-1 headers to see what that does because science.

Ahhh progress, a man can never make enough. Looks sweet. Rack ends look burly.

Well done on the file cabinet storage. I have a bunch of doctors ones that have smaller drawers for my cabinet hardware for work. So sick. I got them for free when a colleague ripped out a doctors office. That 20v looks incredibly sick. A white block. The balls on this guy!

I'm booked in for a tune Friday morning, wondering what the powers going to read with the longer trumpets. Been running intake vvti mapping from a 2grfe, it works great, but Ill design a few test maps to test different content in those maps, I would like to do a 10 20 30 and 40 degree pull to see where the curves cross. I will also test up to 200mm trumpets by holding the 150mm trumpets inside the 94mm trumpets just to get a test done. If there's more power there Ill make some to a much greater length with a bend.

So called because its always blocked.

Yeah photobucket sucks, hows the car?

https://www.toyoland.com/engines/4A-F.html

http://mywikimotors.com/toyota-7a/

If my research is correct and the heads are very similar or the same, and they are the same bore, then they must be compatible with the valves, as its all the same isn't it? Almost all engines are interference engines from the factory, meaning if the cam timing fails you smash valves and pistons together, but that's different to actually interfering when correctly timed. Usually you can find a Toyota manual that tells you how much you can shave at a maximum, many heads have a check mark or step where the maximum machining point is. Thin hg or a shave either way, but I am unsure if the 4afe and 4age head gaskets are the same, they should be similar, but this is where you need to fill in the blanks by getting a 7afe and playing around with it.

I think leave the pistons alone, (cue leave britney alone meme). If you're head flows more than a stock 7afe head, put it right on and drive it. Has it been shaved, might need to cc the chambers to get an idea of the CR. Stroked motor will make more off the bottom. Should be good. Can you tune for the mods in the head or just stock ecu sorta coping with it?

I think you're at the limit of what people might be able to just tell you when to comes to which bits to use and why. If it were me Id just look for a complete 7afe and try to slap the head on that. Your ideas are all over the place, why would you take a 1.8 litre motor and then fit a 1.6 litre crank from a 4age? It would just reduce the capacity back down to make it essentially the same as the 4afe you are getting away from, but with a needlessly taller block, and would need 2 grand worth of engineering to make it work, when you could have just used a 4age in the first place. As I see it its real simple, get a 7afe and put your modified head on it. The belts and pulleys are just something you need to be willing to play with to get a good setup. Its impossible for someone to have followed the same exact path, and if you're stumped by a few pulleys, certainly dont try and do a build as complex as this sounds in your mind. I'm getting a vibe that this is all a bit overwhelming, and you're lost in possibility and cant make a decision beyond I spent money on this head so Ill save it, but it may be cheaper and higher performance in the long run to just get a 4age. 7age isn't known to be a great performer unless you go full house, and there are far easier ways to get 220 hp and decent torque. That said, i admire people doing things differently and not following the crowd, but the price of that is that you are the one doing the research and engineering and nobody can really help you unless you ask really specific questions and build your own understanding.

Dave he said he has already flowed the head and modified it. A quick look at an epc makes me think ae111 4afe and ae111 7afe 97-98 are the same head... Might just work as per factory on the entire 7afe motor.

and if you replace the thermostat, test the new one before it goes in, they are often bad from new.

You need to remove the thermostat and test its opening temperature in a saucepan as it heats up. It may open early, late or not at all, or stay open if faulty. Judging by the fact the car doesnt show super hot on the temp gauge, or seemingly up to temp, theres a few things that can xause this. Make sure you have accurate temp readings, so try and install a new temp sender for the dash gauge, or still better, install an aftermarket electronic gauge like a speco so you can talk in real numbers and not in hot cold or the red bit terms. If you think its working ok, maybe just remove and descale the probe on the gauge and make sure its clean enough to absorb heat from the water directly. Now that you know your temperatures for certain, i would remove and test the thermostat as described above, usually if a car fails to get fully warm its because the thermostat inst correctly regulating the flow of 82 degree water. Basically, the thermostat has a wax substance inside it that expands when hot to force the thermostat open, they are designed to open at a certain temp, and close below that. Basically your thermostat is probably staying open, so Id suggest a simple replacement of that, and any physical removal you can do of crud will help the cooling efficiency. Most Toyota motors have a block drain where you remove one bolt and all the coolant runs out the bottom of the water jacket. If you remove this bolt on a full cooling system and little to no water falls out, then its will be pretty heavily scaled up inside and it will benefit from being picked out with a tool so it drains again and even try running muckowt for a while. Motors perform at less than their best when run too cool.

Im going to have to go to this one day.