LittleRedSpirit

hahah cool stunt.

It can be done in a couple of days by a skilled operator.

I actually typed decriminalised water vapour. lols.

Its an old trick an experienced mechanic has taught me. He used to buy cars off off the old ladies n gents at the nursing home in his suburb and do this, service fix any issues and resell them running properly for a few extra quid when he was younger. Just read about any water injection system pro and cons and they will always talk about how it keeps the ports and chambers far cleaner, near perfect. I've heard of people doing it to an old motor pre pull down to make the cleanup and disassembly of gunky rings easier. It seems counter intuitive to say the problem of dieseling is caused by any ignition source if the key condition of dieseling on is an off ignition. Its also not sensibe to say its caused by lack of vac advance or too much vac advance, that will just run like shit. Pick a lane is it cause by more or less unicorn ignition events?

I suggest read the forums, a guy was frankensteining 4afe engines here a while back, use the search function.

Beams is awesome but you are at the 4age level with your experience and budget. Keep the Beams goal for another day. Budget is pretty thin IMO, you will spend twice that to install and maintain a 4age engine. Especially if you aren't a guy with a welder and fabrication skills yet. 16v 4age are all old now, you'd be hard pressed to find one that didn't need work to freshen up, and you could even say the same about 20 valves now, with the last ones being made well over a decade ago. Beams would be ten grand when done, easily. There are gearbox length issues to overcome, tunnel sizing, mounts, fuel system. Brakes unless you want to die. Easy 10k DIY, or 25k at a shop. SO the 4age, if you can find a motor and box for cheap, Id try to use carbs on it. Fuck efi, just use an ecu for timing and disconnect the rest. A simple Weber or some solex carbs and tune it. No need for fuel system, sell off the efi bits for the 4age that people want and then you can probably hit your budget. You can use the standard ae71 mounts and crossmember and pedals. 600 - ae71 parts 1500 motor and box 1000 carby and jets 800 - Exhaust, Radiator, hoses, fans, wires, clips and miscellaneous bits and pieces. 500 Programmable ignition Bit over your budget but you would get to sell a few bits off the rwd 4age like the inlet manifold -$220, the Map sensor - $40, the injectors - $40, the engine wiring loom - $200 if you were going use carbs and not efi. The beauty of the carb system is that you dont have to rip out the tank and fit an afi fuel system, which is one of the most un enjoyable bits and a costly exercise.

I see a few shades of grey here. Dieseling on is caused by a false ignition from the extra compression and heat held by carbon deposits around the chamber. As David says it still cant happen without access to fuel so you either have fuel pooled in the manifold and a very rich car generally to create this or you have a carby that doesn't cut the fuel with ignition properly. I've only ever had one car that did it, an ae71 with 500000klm. The 4ac went in the bin shortly after. I've never heard an argument for timing causing the issues with carbon that cause dieseling. This idea of advanced timing causes carbon deposits must be from retarded people, because you need advanced timing to make an engine run, quite a lot at low load, and far less at high load, but advanced timing it all is. I guess maybe they mean over-advanced and pinging. To me this means your talking to some real kooks that probably dont set their base timing, inspect plugs, use a wideband or tune the timing on a dyno. So I would disregard what they say unless they can explain the science. I assume if you advance the timing correctly, you ignite all the fuel and it is swept from the cylinder most efficiently. If you over advance it, you simply send a shockwave back against the rising piston and hurt the inertia of the engine, but you dont lack the ingredients for full combustion of the fuel and air, you might actually fractionally extend the window of time the explosion has, so incomplete combustion causing soot is not going to be associated with this over advancement, more likely under advanced and rich reading would be logically more likely to leave semi combusted particulates behind. The carbon may signify worn rings allowing the engine to burn oil also. I think if someone says they can pin the ills of any dieseling engine on timing alone they might be tripping. Toclean it out and stop the dieseling, you can get a water sprayer that sprays a fine as possible mist, then put very slowly about a litre of decriminalised water vapour through the engine while at low to middle revs. This will de carbon the head and ports. You dont need any special products. If you dont want to stand there doing it you can rig up a very simple water injection system and spray it in while driving for a while. If the motor stumbles, too much water, a fine mist of water is ideal, but dont be in a rush cause a teaspoon of water added at once could ruin the motor.

Finally got tracking number. Sent to wrong house. Sent back to depot. Sat there ever since despite the courier getting the right address given to them about a week ago finally by the sender. I said so why not just deliver it? They said, there is an open investigation happening and it will be done in due course. I said whats to fucking investigate? You know where its supposed to be, get it to me today already! Case fucking closed call off Colombo and send me the fucking thing. So still dont have, apparently the case has been escalated to high priority, so I should expect nothing much different expect to remain in the consumers limbo for an undertermined amount of time, until these fucking genius startrack assholes discover some new evidence in this shocking investigation that leads them to my doorstep. FUCK!

Sounds like my handbrake at a certain rpm where it rattles. 4 cylinder cars have famously un balaced motors with resonant vibration problems, so hence the term buzz box. Something always rattles. Sounds more like interior to me, and the clutch while it operated as gears were engaged sounded fine to me. Maybe they failed to secure something like a heat shield, a cable or a shifter linkage 100 percent.

Trying to buy a new driver, was supposed to be here 2 weeks ago. Retailer constantly promises tracking number and never sends it. Clearly they dont have the item, and are just stalling to try and fill the purchase. I want to shoot them in the dick. So many lies. Golf clearance outlet at the Gabba. Do not bother with them. Also just had a parcel post tag to collect something, went to the PO and saw that it had postage owing. So the ebay asshole sent me something short of postage, and they expected me to pay it. I sent it back to him, and said, pay your own postage asshole. Can someone do something simple and correct please? No wonder people are forced to internet order all their stuff and kill retail stortes, they already committed suicide by not having any stock to sell, and basically running a retail storefront for a mail order online business. Fucking stupid cunts, all the expense and none of the convienience.

Yeah thats why they get rare. Same with Y motor bits that go to India or Africa. Seems like every dated Toyota engine series has a third world place that needs it.

If that's your motor of choice, I agree with Dave the E30 chassis is the head option, but the ke70 is the heart option. I agree that the inline 6 is a bit much motor for a ke70. Id look for a v6 or for a bigger 4 cylinder if it was me. Id be happy with the power of an alloytec v6 and manual or auto if it was just for straight line stuff. I love handling more than power I think. If you cant drive it hard whats the point. If I was to go straight 6 Id go big for cubes so the barra motor or something like that with a cheap aftermarket and a plentiful source of parts, depending on whats legal where you are.

Had all kinds of the same issues in the ae86 until I just bought a new sender and put it in. Now it works great, it wasnt the plug in my case since they get touched so infrequently, it was the corroded looking sender that had at some stage had its metal casing dissolve or fall off. The pivot was worn and the contacts were poor and not always touching.

Re sealed the top cover since the seals were shot. Ordered a new pcv and a new grommet for it. Was pretty thrilled at how nice the engine looked inside. No sludeg or corroded cam lobes. Just healthy looking overall. Im going to get a manual and check the valves at some point. Running fine though.

Well all I can tell you guys is that this engine with its 96mm stroke is not happy with timing above 25 degrees. I had 32 degrees in it when I first got it running, it was knocking like a bitch. Motor was strong enough to handle it. I was bummed the first dyno tuner I used didn't adjust it at all, he just took a lot of money off me and did nothing, Gary Coombes I owe you some missing teeth. My mods will be aimed at increasing resistance to pinging, as I want to use 11:1 cr. Ill polish the chambers, which will help, Ill clean up the inlet and exhaust ports, and ill look at using the upstream injection, and in the longer run, once the inlet is finished I will make myself an airbox with cold air feed.

Can buy a crashed echo or yaris for about 300 bucks at fowles.

So my place had this terrible clear pretend iron that was ruined, leaking and just generally ready to explode in the next hailstorm. I ripped it down, and replaced it with some proper iron, but not only that, when the clear was off it revealed a huge area of rust where it overlapped with the old iron, so I ended up fixing a 12x 2.2 metre of roof to make it all good again. I still need to replace some guttering and a down pipe, but that's easy to do now the rest is done. Why would you bother on a rental property? Well the owner is a personal friend and he lets me do the maintenance on the place and charge him for it since I am a builder. Now the cars wont get any moisture on them this summer and I can guarantee it will survive a hailstorm too.

Congrats on the new addition to the family. There's really nothing like it, its indescribable. Happy to hear how reliable and efficient the BMW is, thats some good engineering at work. I always thought the e30 is the car the ke70 tried to be, its just come up short on refinement, power and high speed ability. lol.

Very cool I got a few bits for this

Been looking into my options with the Adaptronic e420d ecu to run 8 injectors. Basically, the VE system can do it fine, I just need to physically fit the injectors to the car, plumb them, then wire them in 2 banks of alternate phases, 1-3 and 2-4 change a trigger setting, install dead time and flow data and then they should just work with my tune, with the only difference being the location of the upstream injection fuel delivery. The one tricky thing, is that there is no way to control when they turn on, because its controlled by the ve needs of the motor. Therefore, if the stock injector copes with the fuel volume demands of the engine, it will never use the upstream injectors. The way to bring them in is to mechanically swap out the 330cc injectors from the 2azfe for some 200cc injectors from a 1zzfe corolla or prius. Then when those injectors max out, the upstream comes in. Ideally above 4000 rpm, when the airspeed is faster and the time from moment of injection to ignition is being drastically reduced. Hoping it also gives a charge cooling effect and takes some heat out of the inlet with all the atomisation that can happen on the journey from butterfly to chamber. Hopefully it might take a bit more timing if I'm correct. Currently its happy with 25 degrees at full throttle and rpm.

Yeah you may as well just tyre them up and then run it and see how it goes. From a handling geometry perspective its best to have the ball joint as far inside the tyre as possible, so that will actually Make the steering feel good if the strut and tyre dont rub together.

I ran wheels that close for years. It worked good.

yup

Will be a bit outside stock arches but workable if you can flare the arch.