LittleRedSpirit

Showed 12v on battery this morning but wouldn't turn it over. 7.5 amp charge fuse looked very old and had surface oxidisation so I put in a new one. Put it on the charger and it declared the battery ok and started to charge. Just waiting for it to top it up fully and I think it will start fine, but just not charge the battery as it goes. Belt is on as it should be and the connections electrically are tight.EFI manual wasnt much help with charge issues. Probably just an alernator issue. It was a reco one I only put on 2 years and 5000ks ago.

Odd occurence yesterday. Didnt quite start on the key so i jumped it off the sprinter. Drove fine all day, started on the key while out and was all fine, however on the drive home from my mates place the charge light was pulsing and the voltage was dropping to around 9 volts at idle on the voltmeter, and would rev up to about 10 volts as you increased rpms. Unsure whats up with it, maybe jumping it fried something. I've never had an issue before like this. Car drove good but I was wondering if it was charging the battery or if it was slowly running it down. Stereo was turning itself on and off and the dash lights were browning out at the same time. Went flawlessly until about 10 minutes from home, and its got me baffled. Might read the efi manual today and see whats up. Any ideas rollaclub?

Just got my new thermostat housing in the mail. Its just like the one on it except it has got a sensor thread that will let me install the thermofan controller when it comes. Also means I can return the one from repco that was overpriced as all hell. Fuck Repco. They just let you down over and over again. Since my mates dont work there any more its really hard to take. So keen to see this running sweet as possible. I really want to drive it in anger. Put the kyb dirt rally shocks in, they are an inch shorter max extension and about 20mm shorter full compression, so should match the full set of pedders springs fine that the car has, which are a mild lowering spring. Also need seats real bad! something better than the completely flogged out originals, but cheap too hopefully. Might put a better steering wheel in it too, the same as the sprinter has for consistency and because I have a new spare one here. Would like a cheap set of mags for this too. Maybe gravel rally rims. Probably should freshen up the brakes too I guess.

Buy a car thats already modified and go from there.

Fuck ya caps lock.

Being unique is fantastic if you dont mind the fact that nobody can lay out a plan of action for you on the interwebs. 2az ae86 is a retarded idea but now its done I'm super happy with it. I loved the engineering though, if you want to drive it soonish then take the path of least resistance. 7k efi.

22re is the least sporty engine Ive ever owned. I have a nice low klm engine in my ra65, and I dont rate it much at all. Considering ditching it in favour of a 4 or 5sfe rwd conversion.

Did you find any reference material by chance that might cover it, I'm treating it as 87-91 Camry 3sfe as far as codes and whatnot goes to see if that works. T-E1 Bridge and then check if the engine light flashes with ig on but not running.

Wondering if it needs club rego so I can drive it out of the city and look for gravel roads and motorkhanas to do, or if it should stay off the road and be altogether naughty.

Had a look at epc last night and worked out that the map sensor needs to be hooked to the filter thing on the side of the manifold, I guess they used mechanical filtering on early efi and not electronic filtering in the ecu. Runs way better now, especially when you jump on it. Might try and get fault codes off of it today. What ya reckon medicine Man?

Few more

Pic dump The removal of the fan pulley, and the tensioner must save about 4kgs of weight off the car. Not to mention the reduced load on the motor. So much space left after its gone.

Just waiting on a fan switch to come from ebay and I can mount a fan. I just wired it up ready to install, and found a suitable 14 inch fan on the shelf to use.

Yep, just deleted the fan mount thing, the big steel idler, bracket and belt that just added nothing except drag to the engine. Seems quieter without that rusty old thing spinning. Coming to terms with S motor design where the water pump is concealed and works off the timing belt. Fiddle tps around got more power/smoother rev up. Test drove with more torque, and spins one. No lucky LSD for me. I need seats for this vehicle, the stock seats are truly fucked. Anyone reading this wrecking a car with a pair of seats I can get cheap? Had a close look at the front water pipe, and someone has cut the end off it and pointed it upwards, which is why I cant find anything in the epc about it being that shape. Exhaust mani bolts were all loose as fuck. Tightened. Might pull the inlet off it and have a good look and a clean under and all around it. Or I might not. Next priority I think needs to be a cooling fan and maybe simply a radiator change.

Thinking I can delete one belt setup of the 2, just dont need the big thing the waterpump mounts on, as its just a mount for the fan, I dont think it has water in it. Without power steering I dont need the belt at all as it only does fan and power steering.

Engine Number 4S0872732 Not familiar with s motors, the number was down near the oil filter. Working on parts, everything seems to be specific to the 4s electrically.

add 20NM and 2kw. 5s is 50NM and 10kw more.

People call them rear pods, I think. Ive seen them for ae86, but they look bigger than the ones Ive seen if so. Could be anything. Maybe older Cefiro, R31 or some VIP drifter style car?

OK, Productive day. Put it back together this morning enough to comp test and descale the cooling system. De-greased the shit out of it. Comp test: 1- 206 2 -195 3 - 196 4 - 195 Was chuffed with that. Got inspired a bit then, so I put a fresh z386 on it, and put in fresh Penrite Mineral 15-40. Purred like a kitten then. Old plugs were badly fouled likely from bad fuel and the fact it was running with no map sensor, and or o2 sensor plugged in when i got it. When Medicine Man arrived we were able to tap the back fitting and make the cooling system seal with an odd combo of a radiator bung and a brass nipple, then we ran the descaling treatment. Still seems a bit weak under power, but was able to spin the wheels on the drive way after Justin left, and it spun both for me again. Slim chance of an LSD. Drives better each time i drive it. Still need to check base timing, cant see a timing mark on the crank pulley though. Bit stumped on that. Will have to find a way. Justin is going to look through his reference books and see if there's any 4SFE data available there. Noticed they still had the diagnostic plug there on the loom, so pretty keen to check fault codes if we can find the right manual. Also took the ra65 out for a short drive, AC is still freezing. Somebody give me 4 grand and give it a good home. Thanks for the help, Justin!

Judging by the big weight of copper that came out of it it had that in a previous life. I am not tasting the things I find like Moog though. Thats rank.

Its all you can do, or get a machine shop to drill it out and extract it a bit more scientifically, but I'm sure you guys can do it with the right sized extractor.

Went and pulled the cooling system down last night. Ditched the clutch fan, its shroud, and removed the radiator, hoses and thermostat. Not sure if there is much of the waterpump impeller left, as there was a lot of corrosion inside the rubber hoses. i cleaned it all out and flushed the radiator every which way. Ill run muckout in it this morning and see how it goes. i also looped out the heater as yesterday when i ripped out the carpet and interior the front carpet was wet the back wasn't, so quite possibly the heater was leaking and that needed to be disconnected, so that was done,tap removed and when i slid the heater hoses off the motor I noticed one of the barbs was almost rotted away on the back of head fitting, so i ripped it out, Ill tap the m16 hole it left behind today and close it off. the other side is intact so i can just bung it off to finish the heater delete. This is kind of interesting, the car has an ac compressor, condenser and what looks like it should be a working system, as its all connected. Might jst need gassing or it might need a lot more its hard to say, but I will probably remove it as I dont think I need ac on a thrash car. Or do I.... Set a new record for change recovery, $8.40 from under the carpet. Also inherited some tin snips, a few old ear rings and a hand rolled ciggy someone lost under the carpet somehow. Archaeology. Gonna put on a thermo fan today if I can, I can buy an M16 threaded tridon fan switch and then i can screw it into where the heater used to outlet the water once I tap that. Should be easy. But of course none of this will be much use if the motor doesnt test well, I will compression test it today. Medicine man is dropping by for lunch and to check the thing out.

They must have had an sx80 halfcut judging by the way the wiring, box, sensors etc are all correct. I guess I can now assume its an obtainable oem clutch setup, 8 bolt flywheel, and whatever else the epc shows for the motor and box in sx80 trim. I might have a look at the tailshaft and see if its modified. I suppose it likely is, since the gearbox is farther forward than oem, even with the rearmost direct shifter.

On the bright side this does mean its the jap box that came behind the 4sfe, whatever that means. The adm one would have had this shifter if it was an as delivered sa63 box.

Seems to have the rear most position and not the unobtainium one. According to epc this is the correct one. The tip about sx80 being the rare one must have been a red herring.