LittleRedSpirit

You can buy from techno toy tuning.

Yeah anytime in the near future is fine.

Looking to get what I need together to install the 11:1 pistons as soon as possible. I have the coated slugs already, I also have a genuine full engine gasket kit and a spare head gasket, Toyota black goop, some rod bolts, and some new flywheel bolts. While its apart Ill check the bearing clearances but hopefully they are fine being such a new motor. I have some ring expanding pliers and a ring compressor. Also bought an engine stand and a leveller for the crane as I dont want to damage the duco. I'm leaving the spec sheet here because I don't want to lose the info. I opened the box when I first received it years ago and found no spec sheet inside. I just emailed last night to get it replaced and they sent me the specs. I was looking online for some specs but could only find specs for turbo pistons, as it seems nobody does NA stuff anymore. My piston to cylinder clearance is 0.0030 but most of the turbo cars were 0.0035 to 0.0045 from what I was reading. I'm also considering using a slightly enlarged ring gap so NOS isn't off the table. Dunno if Ill ever bother though.

Hi David. Yeah its been a fun few weeks getting this going and seeing such strong gains from the work. I will need that crane back someday in the next couple of months as I have to get the Camry stripped out at some point. Visit anytime, you drove it before so I would be interested in what you think of it now.

Just bled brakes and mc. Also clutch. Spanner checked underneath. I really need inner arch trims i get so much gravel in the wings.

Car still fine with new battery, even being driven just once a week. I have also fitted the new thermo fan to it. I used the tridon sensor that was always closed circuit, not open, which made it a little more complex. It just meant I had to use an alternating output relay to flip its function. This unfortunately meant that I needed a switched ignition power source so the fan didn't run when the car was off, as it would have run anytime the battery was connected and the temp was high enough even with key off without it. I found one of the unused idle up valves on the top cover has a full time ignition feed so I plugged onto that and ran it to relay with a fresh feed of power from the battery and it all worked nicely. The fan could be a little bigger, its only just efficient enough, but I can always switch the ac fan on for a bit to blast it. Has more power without the clutch fan, noticeably so, it gets off the line much nicer, and will hopefully be more efficient when I get the chance to check economy.

I added a speed sensor to the front hub of an ra40 strut by simply drilling through the steel caliper mounting boss in the right radial location to allow insertion of a Honeywell gt101dc sensor. I just had to drill a hole to poke it through, then drill and tap an m6 hole to mount it to, and it is pulsed 4 times a revolution by the 4 bolts that hold the rotor to the hub. Works great. The gt101dc sensor is a very good hall effect unit, and it only needs a proximity of sub 2mm to work effectively.

I reckon one rear shock is blown

Thanks alot! Im very happy with the improvements. I can also move the throttles upstream so I might do that at some stage just to see whats up, and Ill likely move the fuel injectors too and see how it runs. Im keen to go to the drags now and see if I can break 14 on an aspirated setup.

Just got back from dyno. Now 157hp. A steady 10hp gain and closer to my expectations. Torque is more linear and didn't really lose out anywhere even at low revs. Response is crisper and the fuel map is a bit smoother shape overall. The engine liked 2 degrees advance on transient events. It was crisper with that added. Very happy. The torque increased a lot and the evenness is impressively driveable.

Wow best of luck mate!

Started this this morning and it was slow to start and running on 3. The unplugging of coils and the lack of temp in exhaust pipe indicated cylinder 4. Pulled plug, it showed no signs of fouling, so no spark at all really! I swapped to OEM coil, fixed! It ran smoother than it has yet on the new throttles. I messed around and swapped to yellow jackets when diagnosing a miss while working out the itbs calibrations, it was just fouled plugs, not coils. There the yellows remained, but a few times lately I had not had the drive I expected under hard acceleration, knowing what I know now, I assume it had a miss under load, and eventually this degraded to a miss at idle, so I guess I can surmise that the yellow jacket product is rubbish, and put them all in the bin and save my money for oem coils if I ever need, I have a full spare set on my other motor anyhow that are perfect after 78000ks. The yellow jackets were good for 3 weeks, maybe 500ks. I already sent one set back that seemed to create a miss. Unacceptable. OEM is best for ignition parts. Car is going better than ever now at least. I did notice a substantial increase in fuel economy. From 8.9 to 9.9klm/litre around town. This I can attribute to extra efficiency getting air into the engine. This is all a little surprising considering I added fuel here and there to the map compared to before, and extra transient enrichment. I drove it rich for a bit, and have continued to trim the maps as required in the logs to optimise. Basically, that's amazing economy for the first tank running in some new itbs and tuning them. I think I need a highway economy test drive, somewhere about a 550klm round trip to see if I can get it on one tank.

Hello. Very cool and in good shape too!

Pics. No leaks! Test drove it and tested brake warning light and brake function. All good. Got it pretty well tuned fuel map wise. made some timing experiments and found it was better where i had it. Kinda stumbled into good settings from the outset.

Last night I remade the throttle rest and made it so it sits on top of the throttles and mounts on the throttle bodies themselves, so if I space them upstream i can still use the same throttle rest. I then removed the 80 plus 37mm trumpets and put on the ones I made above. I think it went better with the longer setup, so with that in mind, I will try the long trumpets on a spacer next and see how that goes. Should be an improvement hopefully.

Fuel surge?

I think the soul of the ae86 is some kind of aspirated abused 4 cylinder so beams with itbs is the go for me from those choices. You can do pretty much any late model 4 cylinder with enough research. Im wondering when someone will cobble together a ford/mazda 2.5 litre duratec rolla.

I think you need to buy someones shortened 9 inch and put custom mounts on it.

Welcome home

It may be lightly pressurised if someone has fitted an electric fuel pump, not uncommon, especially if the mech one has failed, but it would be about 5psi maximum, so its not going to be some big residual pressure, as it would be regulated to a low figure and just not retain pressure once the car is off and not pumping any more. Likely the fuel filter and rubber lines would be a great thing to replace for peace of mind. Id also suggest dropping the tank and redoing the supply, return and breather hoses, and even cleaning it out as well since it could have 41 years worth of corrosion, dirt or bad fuel inside that will be sub optimal to ingest in the carb. Maybe even give the carb a dose of carby cleaner and try to make it all as clean as possible, then make sure the idle mixture screw is in the right spot. Hopefully it runs sweet after this, or you might need to overhaul the carb. Generally when you buy an old carby vehicle, the carb has gotten choked up with deposits over the years, and it has slowly become more and more asthmatic, as the short term fix is often to just crank up idle air and keep it running at a healthy rpm where it wont stall, instead of addressing the symptoms of a dirty carb directly.

Its been flawless with the new battery. I ended up putting the battery from the ae86 in while the sprinter was off the road, and then buying a new one for the ae86. Its been fine ever since. I took off the manual viscous fan as they just create so much drag on an engine, having seen the engine masters episode where they tested them back to back, and the thing has a lot more poke without it. I've been using the AC for the cooling fan when driving, which has been fine, however its cooling off and ac is a less ideal thing to run in winter so now that I have all the bits, Ill be putting its own thermofan on the car and using a Tridon thermoswitch to control it, on at 90 off at 85 C. Might even do it today.

Its always worth having top notch brakes if you value your life, its not all about saving money. Well done!

Cut my 150mm stacks down to about 112mm. I heated the bases with boiling water and froze the trumpets with icy water and interference fitted them together. Then I did up the fastener. should be pretty hard to seperate. They only measure 46.7mm inside. Ideally I need to hone away 0.7mm of the alloy to make them 48mm id. Not sure how to do that with what I have at my disposal. I have options of 450mm 375mm and 295mm to test for total inlet length as well as two different throttle locations 80mm apart. I also polished the bellmouths right up.