philbey

Bingo. Has anyone done the drill and tap option - I can't imagine its too hard, but if someone has a pic of a previous attempt that would be handy. I was also thinking that a one way valve in the pilot line (couldnt think of a better name) would be a pertinent idea, otherwise sloshing fuel when off throttle might cause some mixture issues. I was also thinking of water injection, but using a little piston air pump to do produce the pressure differential. What sort of pump are those washer pumps? If they are diaphragm or piston type pumps, you might have trouble if the pressure at the inlet side is to high, because of fluid bleeding past the reeds, or it may struggle to start u[. If its a gear/vane pump though, it should be fine. I have a few pressure pumps lying around as well that I acquired through my travels, shouldn't be too hard to dodgy up. What were you going to use for a spray nozzle? I was thinking some fine stainless tube with an end flattened, and solder into the inlet runners.

sweet. My mate whose car this setup is currently on didnt bother with a high pressure electric pump and subsequently leaned the thing out til she popped. Taz, you run a boxed carb on your rolla. Rather than box mine up, I have been reading about running a pressure line from the manifold to the fuel bowl. Do you know any advantages with boxing it up rather than a pilot line? Not only that, but I'll probably need to drill and tap a fitting in the fuel bowl lid in order to do this wont I, because the vent isnt particularly easy to plumb a fitting to. (Any pics on where the vent is would be great)

Taz, any more info on the Rising Rate FPR for turbo carbs? I read your post talking about the Carter Black pump etc, but I don't recall you specifying the FPR? I'm not running heaps of boost, so I don't really care about rising rate, but if there is a good one, I might as well use it What, how much and where from?

A bloke I know dropped a nut down a plug hole (Worst Nightmare!!!) CA18DET as well, so cast iron - no hope of getting a magnet down there without sticking to the bores he reckoned. For some reason he though he'd try turn it over...... goodnight Irene.

Cameron this is about the 4th thread I've seen this week from you cleaning or painting something or rebuilding heater controls good work. What you using for the power source? I've got an article on using battery chargers to do it somwhere on my congested PC.

Yeh, and if anyone knows a good high temp paint colour for (ie brand and colour) that looks close to original that would be great too! otherwise, I'll just go black! haha.

I have been through a couple in the past, when I was looking to use them: Su Carb operating principles Nice cross section diagram. Always a good thing. This has some good stuff as well, but not heaps More on SUs There is a good article on tuning and balancing them as well, I can't find it at the moment. Will update.

mate you'll get interest. Probably from Scott and me at least..... ROAD TRIP!

gentlemen, so i can read into this that a 4k Dish Piston head is the same as a 5k Dished piston head?

wow I just found this double post 4 months later..... haha.

In order to avoid a bunch of hearsay, rumours, "i had a mate that did this and is fully street legal", this is straight from the South Aus DTEI and is the gospel. And I highlighted the imporant bits for you too lazy to read! haha. link to the full article ENGINE CHANGES General The fitting of an alternative engine is a common modification carried out to passenger cars. The alternative engine may be fitted to replace one that is no longer serviceable, or to achieve an increase in capacity, power and/or torque. Under the Road Traffic (Miscellaneous) Regulations 1999 the fitting of an engine of greater capacity than an engine available as an option for the vehicle, so as to exceed the efficient functioning capacity of the braking Transport SA September 2003 Modifications to Passenger Cars, Car Type Utilities and Panel Vans Page 5 of 25 system provided at the time of manufacture of the vehicle, is not permitted unless a Certificate of Exemption is issued by Transport SA. Several factors are taken into account when considering an application to increase the engine capacity of a vehicle. Consideration is given to the weight of the engine, the power and torque output in relation to braking, strength of the vehicle, effect on steering/suspension components, and the effect on vehicle handling characteristics. Transport SA does not specify an absolute maximum capacity, power and/or torque for engines that may be fitted to passenger vehicles, however, Category 1 and Category 2 Approved Engine Change Lists have been developed which specify some engine changes which are acceptable to Transport SA. For other than Category 1 modifications a Statement of Requirements is required from Transport SA prior to commencing modification of a vehicle. A Transport SA Customer Service Centre must be notified of the new engine number for the vehicle to be correctly registered. Category 1 Approved Engine Change List The Category 1 Approved Engine Change List specifies acceptable alternative engines where no major mechanical changes to the vehicle, such as upgrading of the braking system are required. Engine changes to vehicles included on this list; require no prior approval or inspection. Under the provisions of a Government Gazette Notice, engine changes undertaken in accordance with the requirements of Category 1 engine change list do not require a Certificate of Exemption to be issued. Category 2 Approved Engine Change List The Category 2 Approved Engine Change List specifies acceptable alternative engines where mechanical alterations and\or emission criteria may be applicable. Engine changes included in the Category 2 Approved Engine Change List will be acceptable to Transport SA providing modifications are undertaken in accordance with the Statement of Requirements. Category 2 modified vehicles will be required to be presented for a full roadworthiness inspection. To obtain information on the vehicles included in the Category 1 and Category 2 Approved Engine Change Lists, please contact Vehicle Standards on 8348-9599.

yeh its killer isnt it. took me quite some digging to find that.

taz, you paid 23 bucks for a Head gasket? damn thats crazy. 6 bucks on ebay +5 for postage. I didnt even need it, just bought it cos it was cheap! haha.

mate, I'm gathering you are looking at making some up? if you do go about it, let us know, i'll buy a set for sure. EDIT - I just looked at that drawing, and I could have that in solidworks or DXF format tomorrow night. I think I will email that to a laser cutter bloke I know as well and see how much it will cost me..... EDIT AGAIN - Damn, Stewarts drawing doesnt have the PCD, and I don't have my car on me. have to wait.....

ok heres that other link definitely read both those pages, and you will gain a good understanding of how they work (which then equates to knowing how to work on them!) even better, read it as you pull them apart. Reading Time! Good luck

adjustable. not quite - you have adjustable spring rate and stock underdamped struts hahaha!

this is his actual adjustable top page from his website http://t-rex.materials.unsw.edu.au/~sford/ EDIT - click Suspension on the left side of the page, then use the dropdown to Adjustable strut tops. Theres a drawing as well. old old old school pictures.

Just had a google about that. Cars complying for front impact zones only have to comply post 1995. Given the ADRs were compiled long after the ke15 was built, I can't see them being a concern. If you want to do it, do a good clean job of putting them on, secure them well etc. If it were me though, I'd pay for a nice clean set of steel panels, because fibreglass can be a real pain to affix, prep and paint, and it will never look as good a steel!

Gday mate, I'm going through the same thoughts as you are at the moment. I've rebuilt a couple of OEM carbs in the past, and I've been pulling my DHLA's apart and taking a look inside them recently. If money is no issue, I would suggest you just buy the kit and just do it, especially if you don't know the carb history. Most of the bits will be self explanatory as you take them apart. As for rejetting, this kit wont do that for you. Most likely you'll need to buy jets etc seperately. Check out Gem Parts on ebay, they have some jet sizes. Before you buy though, have a good read through this: Dellorto Jet Sizing If you follow that through, you will have all the numbers you need to chheck against what you already have. Its a simple matter of removing the plastic cover on the top of the carb and unscrewing the little brass screws you see. These are the main and idle jet/emulsion tube asseblies. Have a look and you will see numbers, cross check those against the article above. Also, peer down the inlet side, and you should see a number cast into the face of the venturi, something like 28-38, thats your venturi size. Once you have all those numbers in the ballpark, you should be ready to put them on a car and start tuning as per that article. Also, I have another link that explains the operation and guts of the carb really well, i just have to dig it up. Its a must read for anyone trying to understand how and what these carbs do, so I will post it up tonight when I find it. As for cleaning, probably petrol and elbow grease. A bit of Autosol metal polish once clean will polish it up too probably. Cheers. tom.

theres plenty of fibreglass/composite bodied cars out there, like corvettes, lotus, ferrari, etc. I had a look at vicroads website, there doesn't seem to be anything explicit about it.

Mate, if you decide you'd rather sell them on, let me know and we'll talk turkey! cheers. TP.

thats why i love this site. killer info folks. Cheers for that. Felix, was that you that mentioned in another post you had some Perry headers? These are pretty good price from what i see on their website. How do you rate them? And how nice do they fit? Any other likely issues with the headers+twin DHLAs issue? I scored a second car the other day as well, I will use that as a mockup car before I drop it all in.

Hi there folks, Took possesion of my new set of twin sidedraft Dellortos yestersday and I'm pretty excited about bolting them up to my project motor. I just need to go shopping for some extractors now, and I wanted to clarify some issues (I've been digging but its still a tad vague): 1) Extractors and Twin Sidedraft manifold clashes: Apparently the manifolds clash and will require machining off the 3cyl runner? Is this common to all extractor brands or just certain ones? Does anyone have any pics they could circle bits etc so I can get a better idea? 2) KE1x Extractors different from other cars: From what I can tell, KE1x extractors are different from later KE ones, can anyone explain why? 3) Off the shelf extractors: Does anyone know who makes off the shelf headers to suit K motors that will bolt straight into a KE10? Perry (HM Headers) list one on their site for the K motors, but do they fit KE1x's. Camerondownunder and Felix, you guys sem to know a bit about these items (El Clicko) I will take pics as I build this up, and writeup something comprehensive for the FAQ. Cheers in advance TP.

sorry mate, didnt mean to preach, i'm only just now relaxing after I asked the guy the age old question "Do you have insurance". Tell you what though, the full comp I had on the ute with CGU paid off, they didnt bat an eyelid, just fixed my car and sued the shit out of him hahahha.

usually, if catalogues list a replacement part, it will be a universal one anyway ive found in the past. if anyone has any sucess getting the cable to nicely operate a universal one I'm interested to hear.