philbey

Mums tell lies. what year? 12? piffle, get under the bloody car.

Mate you're a machine. Looking good though! Whats your plan for the dash pad? I have a ke10 one at home that I have sanded and bogged the cracks in. This weekend I am going to lay some 5mm foam over it and then stretch some clark rubber vinyl across that. Hopefully, the foam will even out the rough spots where I filled the cracks. Probably use a heat gun to stretch the vinyl. Is this what you are doing? Let us know, I'm interested in comparing results!

if you swap out a set of control arms you shouldnt need a wheel alignment though, unless you fiddle with the tie rods or the arms are out of shape

Kangaroosa got his cam ground for ~80 bucks at Wade Cams in Melbourne. I was going to go the same grind, but I'll have to post it.

I assume you're talking about lightening - nah, its just going to be a grunty streeter to pull my wagon up hills without bogging down to 1st (toyoglide haha!)

Crikey. You'd have to be pretty keen to run Aluminium unis in the long term as well - you can guarantee you will be replacing those when they go BANG.

or forgets for that matter. Hi.

I did a similar thing on my wagon, the most retarded little nudge..... Pisses you right off. I only smashed my indicator, and with a little bit more bog work and a dodgy colourmatch, it should look fine.

could be a little inhibitive given the price though ahahah! I know there's plenty of good techniques to rotary buff, its just that there's plenty of muppets not using those techniques! I've used a good buffer with great success too, but I still see heaps of swirly black cars kicking around!

Mate, a problem like that can probably be fixed by an auto elec in under an hour - drop by and have a chat to one, I did this a couple of times in the past and he diagnosed the problem in 5ish minutes, then told me how to fix it myself! haha. ~60 per hour labour. By the way mate, love the interior work. I did a similar thing on my KE16, but I used 3mm Clark Rubber foam for the padding in the doors and it came up a treat. Spray Adhesive - gotta love it, I had some bad results using aquadhere, because it contracts as it dries..... no good.

holy mother of jeebers! I was having nightmares about building a ke10 with one of these and becoming posessed by the devil himself......... yeah!

Had a similar thing that could be described as "very loud tapping" in my 4ac powered sprinter. Turns out it was a bent valve sticking and just touching the top of the piston. I drove it about 4 kms, and when the head came off, there were nice little knicks in the carbon on top of the slug! Not enough to bust a hole, but it needed a head rebuild after that.

Got API started on the block. Incidentally, I took the crank down there and he measured it up. Sweet as. Got talking to him, and he said he'd bet his left nut that most cranks don't need grinding, very rare that they wear out of factory spec! Might pay to measure your cranks with a micrometer before you throw money at your engine grinder people!

Not bad - Better off with SU's though, strombergs tend to be harder to deal with and tune, and also harder to get parts for. BUT - you will really really struggle to find a manifold for them. I was going with the SU option but just couldnt get one. If you have ~800 bucks, buy the twin Dellorto's Kangaroosa is/was selling and use them. I currently have a 5k down at API Engines in Lonsdale, they have started on the block at the moment. Read this thread I posted earlier, I will let you know how it all pans out. READ ME

He's talking aboutt he rubberised centre bearing found on 2 piece tailshafts, not engine mounts. Thats for vibration reduction. With unis, the greater the angle they run at, the less efficient they are, due to the fluctating rotary acceleration. 1 piece shaft = longer radius = smaller angle of movement as the diff rises and falls. Therefore, 2 piece is less efficient at transmitting power than a 1 piece, plus the benefits of less parts to fail! BUT - you do have more unsprung mass on your suspension...... semantics.

The Fuel to Air ratio is too rich, so as the car burns petrol, there are more carbon atoms in the combustion, and rather than bonding with oxygen, they just come out as straight carbon, which is black! Another by product of combustion when the engine is cold is water vapour, so there is an element of Steam to the exhaust gasses, and this combines with your carbon to make black looking water. To solve the black smoke issue, it might need a mild tune of the mixtures on the carburettor. Buy a workshop manual (Gregorys) for about 25 dollars and it will give you a run down on what to fiddle with on your carb, and the steps to take. When you get it wrong (part of the experience) a mechanic should be able to tune it properly for ~50 bucks if you talk to him nice! Best of luck, and remember whatever you do can usually be undone! Cheers Tom.

haha - take the whole damn dash out while your at it, its a paddock basher! If you need the cluster, tape it to the steering column!

Fuel Pump - easy. Undo the 2 nuts and the fuel lines. Pump will just pop out easy enough. Might have a phenolic resin spacer between the pump and the block, which may be cracked and leaking, etc. You could make a gasket up using standard gasket paper, or you could just put a neat smear of gasket goo (Silicon) on the faces, and do it all up nice and tight and she'll be fine. Make sure you clean all the surfaces up before you use silicon etc. cheers tp

Press - thats fancy talk that is.

but most importantly - It looks TOUGH! haha.

sweet mother of all things holy. That Merc is a weapon. Is it raw, or has it been clear coated over the raw steel? Any of these machines likely to go to the Bright rod run this year, I'm thinking of coming over for it?

yep. But unless you already know a good detailer, its just 1 quick buff away from being screwed as you determine if he's a good detailer or not haha.

The yanks are pretty keen on the 22r's, they must have a heap of them or something. Check out these guys: LC Engineering They do nothing but build crazy 22r's. I had a read, they are reasonably in square and should be a nice torquey motor in theory. Biggest downside I can see to the motor is the breathing limitation of the head. But, cheap common and easy motor, and they have plenty of torque stock. Do it, it would be nice to something different from the staple donks.

far out 17s. Lots of scrubbing with those puppies?

This shoudln't be the case if you have a working thermostat in the car. Perhaps a little longer, but it would be a marginal difference.