philbey

mate I can tell you what they have - plenty of 30's and 70's. There was a 25 there about a month ago, reasonably intact except the front struts are missing the springs and tops haha. Orange one, north western corner. Thats about all they had there.

Theres a ke20 with big wheels always parked on brighton road, south of the holdfast. Saw the blokes pushing her the other day... old bloke driving a clean mustard coloured ke20 parked in the car dealership across from Cavalier Campers on Marion road AND - spotted another tidy looking mustard 20 with a ROLLACLUB sticker on it in Brunswick melbourne, but hey this is the adelaide post.... Anyone know it though?

Mechanical Engineer. Cut my teeth in product design, now I'm giving the mining game a shot. Good fun, and plenty of job diversity out there.

My wags: Pros - You know what, I like it because its slow, and handles like crap. Its hilarious to wallow around through windy's and because its slow its just funny. Its great that that its a pushrod slant non crossflow four banger. I love the fact that I am spending (in the scheme of things) bugger all money for a lumpy, twin carbied little donk that is going to still be slow! The toyoglide is the funniest thing ever too. The Backfires on Demand. Cons - The nice dents in my door thanks to some old haggis that obviously uses her mirror to reverse out of her drive, instead of turning her damn head around. The fumes. Still not fixed.....

what carby? if its a 32/36 weber or similar they usually have a vent next to the throats and an external one. Block the external one off and the internal one will supply boost pressure to the fuel bowl. If it doesnt have an internal vent, or it has been closed over (a trick used by hill climbers to stop fuel sloshing out the vent into the throats) then drill and tap a fitting into the fuel bowl lid and run a boost "reference" hose. Just tee off the same line you use for your fuel regulator.

nothing like shooting up a strip joint for laughs. Putting a dent in my car fixing time though! I'm down south too, where the hills are bigger and the roads are windier. Pity the wagon is like driving a shopping trolley on roller skates.

Top effort. Its good to see people busting their balls to get a panel straight, not just packing it with bog. If your tail light is faded, no point getting a new one. Buy some Autosol, its a metal polish but works a treat on plastic tail lights. Enough time and effort polishing and it will look brand new.

yeh, those springs will be popping off their seats nice and easy! haha. they're superlows off a KE20 aren't they? I'll go a swaybar if we can get a good discount. I was thinking about it a bit more Scotty, the leaf wouldn't actuall operate as a swaybar, it depends if its fixed at the centre of the leaf or not? (haven't looked) The reason they have them Haydo is because in 1967 when they started building these things, leaf springs were the technology they knew and used the most. It does the same job as a compression spring, but thats about it. With the dual coil/leaf setup they can also get a progressive spring rate effect, something that probably wasn't too common back then. The Datsun 1000 also has a similar front end, except I think they might be a crude double wishbone setup. (?)

Forget the fancy tools, a simple small flat head screwdriver and some practice is the easiest haha! As for the lights, Dash lights usually run on the same circuit as your park lights, so yes, its a fuse.

2 things - it either has a fluid level sensor and you are low and fanta or washing up liquid will be of adequate dodginess. BUT, more likely it has a dual circuit master cylinder (seperate lines for front and rear brakes. In these units they usually have a bias switch that kicks in to tell you if you have different brake pressures between the 2 lines. Why? Because you have a brake fluid leak somewhere, most likely a rear drum brake cylinder. Easy to check just rip off the rear wheels and pull the drums off and look for moistness. Fix.

yeh cool. Was thinking I'd buy some new ones for reliability, but screw it. Wreckers, pockets, free......

I'm interested in finding out the same thing haha!

First up, chopping the springs will make the front stiffer. Sounds confusing, but thats how it works. So no, I wouldn't recommend that. Scott and I were talking about this damn ke10 front end thing the other day. Like he mentioned in a previous post, you will need to go shopping for some ke20 upper spring perches. This is the flat dish that sits on top of the spring. KE20 ones are about 40mm lower, so you will get more stroke on the spring. I have some spacers you will need to fit them, for the price of 1 six pack of beer! Did you have to compress the spring quite a lot to get it into place in between the spring perches? I can imagine it would have been a tight fit.

Haha Muderess, aren't these boys out the same side of town as you?! Charl, I put your cardboard bolt painting trick to good use last night as well.

A bloke I know welded a manifold up to suit his sidedrafts. He's an engine builder so he had access to all the right gear he needed, like a mill for flanges etc.

Hi folks, I'm trying to get the interior light on my ke16 to work. The switches in the doors are cactus, and I was wondering if anyone has replaced them with an aftermarket item with any success? Cheers TP. (Cameron, Felix, I'm looking in your direction)

Porsche's have magnesium wheelnuts, ~4 times lighter than steel ones! crazy to feel the weight of them.

Ahahahahahahahaha. Not even close to ke16 coolness!

I did a stack of work on my girlfriend in year 12, car came later. hahaha. I hope my mum doesnt read this, cos I'm losing on 2 counts so far.

Ahh, forget that vicroads rubbish, it will be of no use to you. It'll be as useful as asking a blind man to explain what the mona lisa looks like. Read this. The bold bits will tell you things, and download the PDF I linked too and keep it for later! Click Once for Enlightenment

Can you forecast the weather?

First up - what car/drums etc. I haven't fiddled with corolla drums (will be this saturday though), but have played with plenty others. Usually, there is a little sprung 1/4 turn pin that comes through from the backing plate. This is to hold the shoes to the backing plate, so that when you do what you did the whole assembly doesn't pop out and damage wheel cylinders. These little pins will have a funny end on them, and you generally need to pull them outwards and turn them to lock them in place. And, lastly, did you have the drum on there when you tested the brakes? Because if corollas don't have these retainer pins, then they will need the drums in place to stop this from happening. No need to test with the drum off, it won't tell you much Cheers Tom.

could be accelerator pump - even though I own a set, I can't remember if/what the dellorto one is like. Acc pumps have a check valve in them, to stop fuel in the pump valve running back to the bowl when you gas it. This busted, and it meant every time I put my foot down it went back to the bowl, leaning out every time I accelerated. Gives similar symptoms: still driveable but not if you gas it. SHOULDN'T deteriorate over time, though, so it may be something different.

damn you "factory spec" crazies. I thought FINALLY someone has just whacked a 100hp nos kit on a 3k and gone to town with burnouts and general humourousness. but no, I was deceived by yet another stupid Internet Acronym phenomenon :rocknroll:

No love on the whitewalls yet, I'm postponing as a little birdy messaged me to say there's a set of 14 inch rims awaiting pickup! No point whitewalling a set of tyres I'm about to pull off the car! Last night I finally put the ke20 strut tops into the car. Damned if its any lower, but it must be. I think after having it apart for a week, I was expecting some nose dragging action... Stupid imagination. Pics this weekend. I might also add to Scotts thread on swapping strut tops, I came up with a little trick or two. tp.