philbey

Shut up and stay on topic the lot of you. So someone's opinion doesnt sit with you, bad luck. Just get on with the discussion. I have never seen anyone try a steering upgrade on a 10. Brakes, you could go the usual upgrade to later model corolla discs, but I reckon you'll be after more with the setup you're looking at. Could be a significant bit of work I'd say.

There is also a very good article on it here as well: www.jefframin.org/library/distributorRecurving.doc combined with Tojo's article you should have all you need to work out how to do it yourself.

Go see Pete Robinson, he'll flog you a set of those Mazda 13 inch steelies (look in my rides thread, same ones). Or, go around the corner to Allmaz on clayton road, thats where Pete gets his from anyway.

Yeh, I have thought about getting widened stockies in the past. My old man knew a stock car racer, they used to do it themselves, slice a rim and weld a 1 inch flat strip around it. If you were handy with the welder, you could do it carefully, then let the balance get sorted by the tyre shop.

DAmn man that looks mad! But no you can't touch my bonnet.

Yeh, for sure. But as with my mate, it lead pretty quickly to shitting a ring and started burning oil. Interesting point about the the balancer key.

Are you 100 percent its fuel on the ground, or is it water? If its fuel, you might have an injector stuck open, flooding a bore and cause flooding/running badly/idle issues. Happend to a mates SR20DET, the fuel washed the bore clean and it did a piston ring, which could explain oil burning. I say might, because it could just as likely be something else. Don't freak out cause some guy on the web told you hahah!

Hah, I didn't even want fast, I just wanted FULLY SICK induction noise hahaha. All good. At least it's getting me to pull my finger out and get this engine done.

From my reading, a tuned set of sidedrafts will still be reasonable on the fuel consumption as long as you can take it easy on the throttle.... There are lots of guys running the factory twin carbs, and rave about them. Bolt on, no hassles with fitment (Factory!) like you get with sidedrafts. At the moment, I am going through the rigmarole of trying to find filters that fit my Dellortos into my car without hitting the strut tower. The factory twins come up regularly on ebay for around 400. Make sure you get all the linkage gear you need, as these bits usually seem to be the first parts to disappear. SU's generally come up around the same price. I only have DHLA's over these options because I got them cheeep like the budgie.

Yeh, you'll need to determine if its smoke or if its steam. Smoke will smell like burning oil, steam will smell like.... steam. See if the symptoms change as the car warms up. Stops smoking/steaming, etc If its crispy cold, steam will be much more noticeable, and will probably die off after a minute or two of running. Smoke will have a faint bluish tinge to it. Keep the radiator cap off and look for intermittent surging and bubbling out of the radiator, although it possibly doesn't have a rad cap? Put a hand on the return radiator hose once it is warm and feel for bubbling, pulsing etc. Also, you can sometimes hear for bubbling and surging through the engine once you shut off a hot engine.

As said, running twins is more than just slapping them on and you're done. All you'll see on a stock motor is bad consumption, poor driveability and some fully sick induction noise. You''ll need at least a cam and extractors to get the benefit from them. Yes, you will use more fuel, whether its a worked motor or a stock motor. As far as Rejetting etc, google it. I found all the info on rejetting and setting up Dellortos with google. Not to dispute with KE_ping about getting a pro to do the work, but I bought a book on tuning Dellorto's and I'm confident I will be able to rebuild, rejet, setup and tune them to a driveable level. Research, read, understand, find out the prices, do the numbers then see. My 5K Rebuild will be run cam, extractors, minor head upgrades and twin DHLA's and I plan for it to run well. It'll set me back about 2 grand total, which is cheap, and that includes ready jetted dellortos at a bargain price. You'll likely to need to spend 700-1000 bucks to get a set of twin sidedrafts setup for your 4k.

Nuts. Like I said though, you need to commit to it if you're going to do it !!! Its all the same principles as a down draft running boost though. Where are the bowl vents on DCOEs, i'm wondering what they do to equalise the bowls with the boost pressure?

For sure on the double blow through being more power, but you would have to really commit to doing it properly, not like most of the backyard carby tubo jobs. How would you manage balancing them though, I suppose it would be straightforward enough at fast idle (low/no boost)?

Haha, timing my mates van was a megajolt experience, cracked lead insulation kept zapping me.... Anyway Taz, I have read up a bit about the MSD units, and was fairly unimpressed: They all seem to be basic 2D linear control, set low rev advance, set high rev advance and draw a straight line between those points. The Jaycar and Megajolt stuff on the other hand all run 3D curve control, revs, load and advance. The jaycar I can even run 2 seperate timing maps if I so desire, although that's probably more suited to boost/nitrous. MSD's do run this but I have to pull out jumpers etc in order to get this. Or am I perhaps looking in the wrong spot?

Go with the SC12 or SC14's. Usually come up on Ebay, price difference seems marginal though. You will have to work the AMR's pretty hard to make any good power. Are you going draw through or blowthrough, because there are a few dual carb draw through manifolds on ebay at the moment. Blow through would be an excercise in expletives to do I reckon!

Hi guys, I am in that mental debate situation for my 5K I'm building. Trying to work out if I want Dizzy Regraph, Jaycar Prog Ignition or perhaps the Megajolt ignition V4 Read up about the Megajolt, but I can't seem to find many people in Aus using it, and I reckon that may be due to the lack of access to the Ford EDIS gear you need to run it. Anyone out there used it? Tom.

Chemeweld no love. Oh well. Found out today I'll be spending time out of town for work anyway, so commuting just ceased altogether! Hey scott, I blame that ramflo I bought off you for breaking my car too! haha. It might be cursed or something.

same old forum story - opinions were voiced, offence was taken, warnings were given, and he then shut down his account and pulled all his input from the site.

Dougal, you'll find you'll be able to get yourself into enough trouble even with your little 1300 k motor. When the rains come past, head down to braeside or scoresby or some other similar industrial area at night and throw that sucker sideways. Then when you get bored, upgrade the motor! ahh, garden boulevard braeside......

Yeh a Ryco Z15 should be all you need.

See if you can get some 3M industrial bonded foam, I wouldn't worry about it breaking down. It'll easily outlast your car.

Yeh some piccies would be fantastic! I think I will probably go this way. Any idea what the price was, I can't see it being much more than the $160 they ask for the 50mm tall ones, there's not a whole lot of redesign needed.

Sometimes I find myself thinking more about driving my rolla than driving my 911. That worries me.

I've been digging and reading about this JAycar kit. Sounds like good fun. Anyway, I have a question: Could I use either the Prog. HEI unit or the Coil Driver to trigger an MSD 6AL? Thus, get the joys of ignition curve control coupled with the fat beefy multispark of the MSD?

Far out he went to a lot of effort to kill every one of his posts....